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Location: 185 Price Parkway, Farmingdale, NY 11735
Hours: 8:00AM - 7:00PM, Mon - Fri.SPECIAL HOURS: We will be closed on Memorial Day 5/25.
This product does not comply with the "Safe Drinking Water Act,"
which requires that products used in any system providing water for human
consumption (drinking or cooking) to meet low-lead standards.
Please check the box below to confirm you are aware of that this item is for non-potable water applications only.
This product will NOT be used in the installation or repair of a potable water (human consumption) application.
You must agree to this statement in order to purchase this product.
Do not use this item for any installation or repair of potable water applications.
This product does not comply with the "Safe Drinking Water Act,"
which requires that products meet low-lead standards in order to be used in systems providing water for human consumption (drinking or cooking).
This item is for non-potable (non-human consumption) water applications only.
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Voltage, or volts, is a measurement of the difference between two electric fields (in heating terms, the difference between the Earth's electrical field and the electricity running through your wires).
Note: Valve must be purchased separately.
The PopTop series valve bodies and actuators
provide easy installation for a variety of heating
and cooling applications.
The valve's actuator can be installed after the valve
body has been installed onto the fan coil,
baseboard or air handler.
(based on 5 reviews)
of respondents would recommend this to a friend.
Reviewed by 5 customers
Displaying reviews 1-5
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Piece of Cake
By The Hen
from Troy, NY
Comments about 24V Normally Closed PopTop Actuator w/ Terminal Block & End Switch:
Had 1 bad actuator in a system serving 3 heating zones. Uh-oh, call the HVAC guy and grab my checkbook. Last zone valve service call I had cost me $300.I knew the either the actuator or the zone valve itself was bad because you could call for heat from the thermostat and the boiler and circulating pump would switch on but cut right off 5 seconds later. Guessed it was the actuator and not the valve because in 25 years many had already been replaced.Well the valve cost me $50 from supplyhouse. It was ridiculously easy to replace. Just press the black lever on the back of the old one and it slides off. Place the new one on the old valve stem and slide it into place. It worked perfectly and solved the problem-for $250 less.☺️This is not brain surgery and shouldn't cost $300 for a 45 minute service call. But then that's capitalism, you just have to make a 500% profit on a job or it's just not worth doing. Wrong! DIY.
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
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fast and easy
I found this site on line when my floor heat quit on the coldest winter in years , a little research , and helpful links from the web site , and I had heat again 2 days later. read over the installation info and installed it it 10 minutes . a lot cheaper then called in an hvac guy.
By Mike the engineer
I have used these valves on my radiant heating system for over 10 years. I have had a persistant problem with the valve failing due to stripping of the plastic gear segment. The only valve that fails is the one on my indirect hot water heater. It is exposed to 170 degrees F from the boiler, while the zone valves for the floor heat only see 110-120 degrees because the water is tempered before it goes to the floor system. The pinion gear on the valve is barely engaged with the last tooth on segment, in my view a questionalbe design. Also the motor is in stall mode whenever the valve is open and this adds to the heat load the valve sees so I think that the combination of these factors puts it too close to the 200 degree rating of this valve. I've had four failures so far. I think the segment needs to be a higher temp material and better engagement with the pinion.
Bottom Line No, I would not recommend this to a friend
I'd buy this product again
from Bronx, New York
For A/C unit in apartments.
Quickest change product ever
from Gowen, MI
It took 2 seconds to change unit and 20 seconds to move the wires - great for even the non-do-it-yourself person.
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