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Q:I am looking to replace one of my dampers as it is leaking air when closed. This unit would be installed on a 4 zone Honeywell system. Does this unit come with a foam seal to ensure no air bypass when the damper is fully closed?
A:Yes and yes. No problems with the two I purchased
Q:Is there a end switch to turn off motor if it's travled from full open to full closed
A:No end switch. It has slip clutch so the motor can keep running when the
Q:Are these Spring-less Dampers? I was advised to not buy spring open/closed dampers since they can get very hot when are sustained open/closed. Curious if these are what they are referring too.
A:This is a power open, power close damper. The spring open model is the ARD6.
Q:What is the proper damper control panel for automatic zoning or is there a manual adjust device available for changing damper position if the damper is being used to change air flow in ducts located behind drywall to balance a system? We have purchased a few of the mard6 and position switch add on block to test fit. We want to use 16 to 20 dampers to create a three floor zoned system with individual room balancing as needed
A:The damper take 90 seconds to turn 90 degrees so it's one degree per
A:I have a 4 zone Honeywell zone controller that supports power open-spring close, power close-spring-open, and power open/close.
A:I used a honeywell thermostat and the zone panel control for my system. There is no manual device pre-assembled, ie sold in the market though you could probably make one with a few electronic devices you could get at radio shack or something, though I am realy out of practice with my electronics transistors, power reducers and such so will not be able to help with that. These zone dampers are made to either allow or not allow air flow through a given duct, 6 inch in your case. I dont know why you are trying to ballance with the damper but my opinion is that if that is your main goal, then this is not the way to go about it or rather the answer is in duct size itsel or mabe even just purchase simple adjustable registers and then you could open and close them to your desired air flow depending on how much you open or close them. if you however use these to allow only air flow in the room which is being occupied so as to conserve energy and not heat or cool unused rooms in the house hold. Example no one is upstairs or maybe just one person is upstairs then only one room and mabe the living room, kitchen/dinning room are being occupied then only those rooms will recieve the temperture condidioning controlle by their own thermostat in conjuction with the zone pannel which you will also need. There is plenty of wiring needed to be done along with duct work to install the damper. And if you place them close to the manifold they branch out of better because by code you need to have a ceiling access point where ever you have one in the ceiling. I have made addition to my home and had the existing ceilings gutted since I wante to make the smooth finish ceiling anyway and the addition well they were freshly made as well so I had plenty acces to run wires and do all the ductwork needed.The control system come in kits or sold separately. Here is an example of the name of a kit EnviraZone System Saver Kit for 3 Zones. Includes 1 VisionPRO IAQ and 2 FocusPRO Thermostats. There are many different com binations mainly the choice of thermostat visionpro iaq is top of the line atm for this zone system in kits though you could use others such as the high deffinition and such if you realy want to get fancy. But the iaq will do fine. You will also have to install a weighted damper from your supply duct to your exhaust duct so when you are only running one sone the ventilator does not blow your your ductwork some where because you would have all the air trying to go our of just one six inch duct and mabe the bathrooms or any closets that you want to receive air all the time with no damper in those locations so the bath room is not to hot or cool whenever you need to use them at any time. They dont usualy have a large demand. Usualy they only have 4 inch ducts and this ensures less duct popping pressure to be delivered to your zones. Attached is a file to help with ductwork. Again this is for reducing energy consumption not balancing. It is possible for anyone who is detemined, dont mind doing a lot of comprehensive reading, some tools and time on their hands to install a zoned system but with no experience it will be a somewhat difficult and you will encounter some resistance from technical support at honeywell. I called them up for some advice and they were reluctant to give me the info. They apparantly have been sued before for giving advice on electrical matters. Anyway there is also the matter of the automatic damper always truning while the system is on or off. For this they sell an automatic damper cutoff switch wich I purchased at pexsupply as well though the do run upwars of forty dollars last I spent.This is so the little damper motor does not keep spining once it is either all the way closed or all the way open. You would think for this price it would would come with it but no you have to purchase it sepparately and install it correctly and then wire it correctly not to difficult just too bad it does not come with it alredy. Anyway hope this helps. I will try to answer andy more questions that you have as fast as I can. Good Luck.
Q:What is the power supply, can the power supply be ordered with the damper?
A:The ML6161B motor used on the MARD dampers is a 24VAC power open power closed motor.