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Electronic Oil Primary with 15 seconds lock out timing and selectable valve and blower delays.
The R7284 lets you keep track of system quality by accessing memory data that gives a clear picture of day-to-day performance. The error history capability defines when and how the controller encountered problems, and helps maintain knowledge when there is more than one technician involved in servicing the unit. There is also a baseline feature that uses a
cycle-trend reading to determine if something is out of the norm, allowing troubleshooting during service check-ups before a no heat call occurs.
Honeywell oil primary controls can fully integrate into any EnviraCOM communications system, which allows for remote monitoring with a simple 3-wire connection.
Honeywell has designed this unit with several unique capabilities and features like recessed wiring pocket to allow more space in tight junction box installations. It's engineered to be unmatched in its compatibility, including working seamlessly with power venters without integral timers.
(based on 8 reviews)
of respondents would recommend this to a friend.
Reviewed by 8 customers
Displaying reviews 1-8
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Great cotroler, for the right person
from Raymond, NH
Comments about Universal Digital Electronic Oil Primary:
I am a controls engineer which makes me LOVE a controller that is programmable and tells me what is going on in the way of history, etc.I installed mine about a month or two ago and it has been working flawlessly. I really like the fact that you can program it to shut off the igniter after the flame starts up. You not only save s significant amount of electricity, I would expect the igniter to last much longer since it only runs for a few seconds each time the burner starts, instead of the entire time the burner is on.My biggest complaint is with the manual. DO download the manual and figure out how you are going to install it before you start. The old one had only a few wires: Neutral, Hot, and Run, (Plus also a place for the CAD Cell and thermostat to go.) This one has all of that PLUS about six more. Where do they go? well, they are for options you do not have, such as an oil valve to shut of the oil in the oil line when the burner shuts down, including appropriate delays. My biggest beef with the manual is that it does not explain the "plain vanilla" installation that 90+% of the people will do. If you are just using it for a drop in replacement, you want to know where does the Cad Cell go? Where to you put the thermostat wires? What do you need to do with the other wires?One would think it would be obvious they would tell you that, but they don't.After spending a few hours on it, I figured out the extra wires do not get used at all, with the exception of the LIMIT wire. This one MUST be used, or the burner will never start. I looked all over the instructions, and they do not tell you this, but you might be able to guess this from some of the diagrams. The other thing they do not say, is what does the limit wire need in order to start. The Limit wire CAN be used to start the burner if you do not have a low-voltage thermostat. (That is a nice feature, if you need it.)Anyway, the answer is that the Limit wire (red wire) is wired to the Hot AC (120 VAC) AND the thermostat to T, T which must be shorted to turn on the burner, but the T-T can be disabled.I have a limit sw (normally closed) on the blower control. In this circumstance, it would be ideal to run the Limit switch to this wire.My old control used this wire to power the oil burner. I expect this is the standard installation. That way if the furnace gets too hot, the limit sw kills power to the burner.You can still do it this way, but, if the limit sw opens, your controller looses power, then you loose your history.Therefore, it would be best to run a separate wire to the controller from the limit SW as will as a hot wire to the burner. Then you can let the limit SW kill the power without removing power from the controller.
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
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Impressed with improved technology
from Norway, Maine 04268
Great replacement item. A note about need to supply power to 2 terminals for oil hot air furnaces would be very helpful. Probably a fully trained tech would be familiar with this issue. Being only a handy-man,I was able to discover the issue only after the system didn't work. After studying the schematics, I was able to see the difference. A quick note to raise attn. to the power requirements might save tremendous time for individuals like myself. Data storage capacity is super!!
A great controller!
By Basement Craftsman
from Bolton, Ma
I too bought this to replace a typical R8184G on a Beckett AFG burner in a Peerless WB-4. My old controller was occasionally chattering or cutting off completely before the boiler was hot, and a gentle whack on the side of the R8184G would get it going again.I suspected that a 15 second lockout was enough, since that's what current AFGs ship with(actually a Becket branded R7184). Verified that 15 seconds was okay with Beckett before installling this. Also verified(and now tested) that interrupted ignition is fine.I did need to run one more wire from my Aquastat to the new primary, since the R8184 only needed two. Technically, I suspect I could have gotten away with just wiring the white from the aquastat to the limit(or limit and L1) on the R7284, since I didn't need the special post-run features of the unit. Notably, the standby power usage of this new primary is about 1.5 watts more than the old one, I assume to run a tiny transformer to keep the display on. Its not a big deal, since it equates to like $2.10 a year.Also notably, the running power usage is considerably lower(65W), because the igniter isn't running all the time. At a typical run rate of 1000 hr/year, that's $10.40 in eletricty, or about $8 in savings per year. This R7284U will therefore pay for itself in about 8 years, just in electricity. I love the ability to monitor the various aspects(cad cell, ignition time) over time.Only two downsides I've found with this unit. The first is that the way to reset the unit is not that clear. It was much easier for the wife to find the big red button on the old control than to have her remember "hold the 'i' button down for two seconds", not that we should ever need to do that. The second is that there doesn't seem to be a way to clear the past(two) error codes from the system. You can tell it to re-baseline the system, but that only clears the records of CAD cell and ignition time, not errors. I'd kinda like to be able to see whether there were any problems at any time since the last time the unit was baselined, but not before. I intentionally caused a few no-ignition and flame-out events to see if it was working properly, and the last two of those seem to be there to stay.I agree that this isn't by any means a plug-and-play thing, but its not really that hard. Do take a look at the manuals available online before buying it, to make sure you are up to the task.
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
R7284U works well
By Bob - KE2D
from Ewing, NJ
I bought this R7284 Universal to replace an older, failing R8184G on my 22 year old Beckett AFG burner on my Peerless boiler. Since these don't fail frequently, I wasn't sure why I would want to buy this digital read-out "Universal" model over the still available R8184G. The price difference was insignificant (less than $1) so I went ahead and bought this model and was glad I did. Personally, given the similarity in price, I'm not sure why anyone would choose the older non-digital, "dumb" version. This unit has a two-line LCD display with a readout on several parameters, such as how long the unit ran for the last time it was on, how long it ran (on average) for the last 10 cycles, whether there have been any events (such as a lockout), what the present resistance of the CAD (cadmium sulfide) cell is (by the way, if you don't know what the CAD cell is and what role it plays in burner ignition, then you shouldn't be considering installing one of these without some experienced or professional help), etc. It has a number of programmable features which allow you to program it for your burner. For example, you can decide if the ignition (spark, arc, etc.) should stay on once the flame is lit. My older R8184G set the ignition and burner motor both on or both off so did not accommodate this. The advantage of being able to turn it off (assuming your burner supports it) is that it reduces wear on the electrodes. Do what I did and check your burner's manual before you set or change something like this. This relay module actually has three separate relay outputs; one for the burner motor, one for the ignition, one for a fuel valve. I don't have a fuel valve so I did not need this one. Installation was fairly straight forward ASSUMING you know what you are doing. I work in technology for a living, read schematics and system diagrams every day, and am comfortable and experienced with AC and DC electrical circuits. Do Not attempt to install one of these yourself if you are not comfortable with electrical wiring and I don't just mean you can change a wall outlet on your own. This is a technical task the requires more than just a pair of wire strippers and a screw driver. The installation guide is fairly clear for knowledgable users and professionals. It most definitely is NOT a step-by-step guide for weekend warriors and home DIY. A PDF version of the Honeywell installation booklet is available here from Pex Supply on the "Manuals" tab of this product page. I strongly suggest you read it throughly before making a purchase. This unit is wired in a fundamentally different way than my older R8184G was. Although I carefully diagrammed and documented the wiring of the outgoing R8184G before removing it (in the unlikely event I needed to reinstate it), this was not a 1-for-1, wire-for-wire installation. There are a number of typical installation diagrams in the booklet which will help guide you but your's may be different. Once again, read and understand the literature beforehand. The diagrams are written for an HVAC technician, not an engineer, and not a homeowner. They do not explain electrical theory nor give you Ikea like instructions. For example, the booklet does not explain that L1 is neutral and L2 is hot. You need to know this yourself. There are significant safety concerns here on several levels; mis-wired electrical systems are dangerous, mis-wired or malfunctioning heating systems can be dangerous, malfunctioning fuel valves, etc. can all be dangerous. You could damage your home systems or in an extreme case, potentially burn your home down while you're in it. Please do not engage in installing one of these by yourself if anything I've written gives you pause. It's not as they say "rocket science" but it's also not a good place to begin learning the basics of home heating and electrical systems.This unit also interfaces with Enviracom systems if you have a newer home with a smart HVAC system (I don't).One minor issue I have... This unit allows you to set a programmable "lockout" time at 15, 30, or 45 seconds. This is the amount of time the system will run and try for ignition before it decides that the "flame is not proven" (no fuel is burning) and then shuts down the burner (requiring a manual reset). My older burner came with a 45 second lockout on the R8184G. The newer AFG burners now seem to use the more conservative 15 second setting. My inclination was to use the legacy OEM setting of 45 (which I did). However, you can only adjust this during the first 100 on/off cycles of the unit before it is hard-coded and locked in forever more. Since my installation was on a long weekend, I was unable to contact Beckett to seek their advice. Make sure you know what value you will be using before installation. This can be set early on but is locked shortly afterwards.All in all, I can't understand why Honeywell still sells the R8184 and similar units. I suppose that there may still be an OEM market for new systems looking to shave costs. Take Note: There is another version of the R7284U which is still "Universal" but does not have the LCD readout. The description says "With Status Indicator Light". This version has a flashing LED and you need to lookup the blink code on a chart to know what the message is. I don't know about you, but when I have an issue with my heat, I don't want to rummage around for the booklet or search online for the code, I want to read it directly from the unit. The other version is ~$15 cheaper. If you're a contractor doing multiple installations and looking to save a few dollars maybe it makes sense. For the individual user, I strongly recommend the LCD display with plain messages (which you you can set to English, Spanish, or French in the menu). Not all have the LCD readout. There are also B and G variants of the R7284 which do not have all the features of the U models. From what I can tell, the Universal version does everything the other versions do and then some.Pex Supply was very good. I placed my order by phone instead of online and the help was polite and courteous. Service was prompt and shipping/tracking info was timely. They also had the best price. They have online assistance but there are no techs to speak with on the phone.
universal oil primary
By Johnny-G Tha Plumber
from FALL RIVER, MA
I am a Plumbing/Hvac service company and this is all I stock in my truck this product is excellent!
from Selkirk NY
Fast shipping and prices cheaper than plumbing supply house
Great Primary Control & Great Service
from Weston, CT
This is a great primary control. My old one only had a LED for feedback. This one has a two line digital display to at least give you a hint why it locked out when there is a problem. It needed a limit connection, which my old primary didn't, but other than that installation couldn't have been easier. PexSupply's service was the best. They shipped the same day. I paid extra for 3-day UPS deliver and I got the item the next morning (I guess I live close to their warehouse). The box had "Read people. Real service." written on it with a sharpe!
from Monroe, NJ
I recently purchased a part for my water heater, and PexSupply offered the cheapest price with shipping included. I received my order fast, and it was a great product.
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