3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free Zoom

3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free

SKU:HV075SLF

Brand: Hydrovalve

Hydrovalve
Qty Price
$5.25
/ each
$49.50 / box (10 units x $4.95)
On Backorder Expected to Ship in 1-2 Months
0

Specs

Size: 3/4"
Features: Lead Free
Material: Brass
Max Pressure (PSI): 175
WOG: 600
Application: Plumbing
Connection Type: Sweat
Features: Standard

Description for Hydrovalve HV075SLF

  • Brass ball valve (Full port) CXC
  • Forged brass body 600WOG
  • Steel handle with plastic handle

3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
Hydrovalve1/2"" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free
 
4.8

(based on 32 reviews)

Ratings Distribution

  • 5 Stars

     

    (27)

  • 4 Stars

     

    (5)

  • 3 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 2 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 1 Stars

     

    (0)

100%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Reviewed by 32 customers

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Displaying reviews 1-10

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5.0

Nice product, Great price.

By JJK

from Torrington, CT

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2"" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free:

Installs quite easily.

(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
5.0

Good valves

By DementedDad

from Texas

Verified Buyer

Comments about 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

Easy to sweat to copper pipe. I though it would be hard to do since the brass is pretty thick. Took a little longer to heat up the brass but it worked well. I removed the handles before soldering. All 4 of the valves I ordered work just fine. Complete shut off with no leaking. When open, the inside diameter seems to be the same as the inside diameter of L pipe so there is minimal flow restriction. They have been installed for about 4 days now and I see no signs of any leaking around the stem. Completely satisfied with these.

(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
4.0

Good Quality

By brother Bob

from TupperLake, N.Y

Verified Buyer

Comments about 2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

I put These Valves right in line with name brand valves.I've used these valves 1/2' thru 2" and have no problem with any of them.Ive been doing plumbing and heating now for 30 yrs.

(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
5.0

Product as described, works well

By djnekvt

from Lyndonville, VT

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1-1/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

Using on heating system.

(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
5.0

♫ Quality product, I High Recommend ♫

By Robert M

from Chicago, IL

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1-1/2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

Used the parts on a whole house water filtration system and they are durable unlike others locally at twice the cost.
★★★★★ Superb ♪♫ service, quality product, Fast Delivery, ♫♪ great vendor, I Highly recommend↑↑

 
5.0

Good Valve

By DIY'er

from Sacramento, CA

Verified Buyer

Comments about 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

Worked well in system.

 
5.0

I would buy this product again and again

By Buda

from Quemado,New Mexico

Verified Buyer

Comments about 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

I got two of these shutoff valves,when I installed a Stiebel Eltron Tempra 12 Electric Tankless Water Heater for ease of maintenance.

 
5.0

Good quality, great price.

By T Roadster

from Candlewood Lake, CT

Verified Buyer

Comments about 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

Lighter in weight than some others, but overall very good quality valves at near half the price of the big box stores. I will absolutely use them again.

 
5.0

I would buy this product again

By smokey

from LaPaz Indiana

Verified Buyer

Comments about 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

The water values work great and price was good to.

 
5.0

Excellent valve for the money

By rocky

from westport ma

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve:

This is a full port ball valve no restrictions excellent product

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Q&A: Ask the Questions, share answers

Do you have questions about this product?

get answers from real customers and in-house experts with AnswerBox.

9 Questions | 37 Answers
Displaying questions 1-9
  • 1"" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free

    Q:

    How do I stop a drip leak from the valve stem?
    Asked on 5/1/2014 by fred from Ferndale wa

    3 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Tighten the packing nut.

      Answered on 5/4/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You probably can't. More than likely the valve was overheated during the sweating and the plastic bushing inside was melted. The valve should be installed in the open position and care should be taken not to overheat the valve.

      Answered on 5/1/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Take off the handle and tighten the packing nut under it. If there is no packing nut, tighten the nut that holds the handle on because the handle acts as the packing nut

      Answered on 5/1/2014 by Anonymous
  • 3/4"" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free

    Q:

    Is this a 2 part valve meaning you can take it apart and solder to ensure no valve damage is done when soldering to protect the seats?
    Asked on 3/1/2014 by Kris from Ramsey, MN

    1 answer

    • A:

      Yes you can take them apart. It's a good thing too because they leak from the factory seal.

      Answered on 4/1/2014 by Average Joe from CT
  • 3/4"" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve, Lead Free

    Q:

    Since this part (HV075SLF) is labeled as “Lead Free”, what is the maximum acceptable lead content in these valves?
    I'm looking for the actual percentage guaranteed by the manufacturer.
    And my second question: What is the Lead content for the part number HV075S ?

    **Just to clarify I'm not interested what the Law states, just what the manufacturer is willing to guarantee...
    Thank you.
    Asked on 10/6/2013 by Pawel from CT

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      This is lead free compliant with the new laws, which means it is less than .25% of the wetted surface area. A more specific figure is unavailable.

      Answered on 10/17/2013 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • 1-1/2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve

    Q:

    I am installing a new boiler and looking to purchase 1 1/2" sweat ball valves. I have used the threaded ball valves in the past. Using the sweat valve do I need to take the valves apart? My fear is damaging the teflon inside the valve during the soldering process. Is there a chance of over heating the valve body while soldering? Is there a special soldering flux and solder used for the larger valves? Thanks
    Asked on 9/26/2012 by Dan

    8 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I have never taken apart ball valves to solder and have never had a
      problem, however I have started taking off the handle and loosening the
      packing nut, and then retightening it after the valve cools. I use 50/50
      solder on valves because it has a lower melting point.

      Answered on 9/26/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I just did this actually, close the ball valve and use the solder paste flux
      (it comes in a tube it is flux with micro solder pieces in it, works really
      cool). Make sure your joints are really clean and scuffed, put your flame
      on the collar part only rotating around until you solder sucks in. When you
      have a nice bead around the rim stop and let it cool down completely before
      opening the ball. If you can the second side will go faster if you do it
      before the first side cools down. But don't open valve until both cooled
      down.

      Answered on 9/26/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Hi,
      Full disclosure... I'm not a plumber, but have done a lot of soldering in various home and rental properties. If you're not careful you can damage the seal... I have! There is no way I know of to disassemble and reassemble.
      Follow these steps and you should be fine. Clean fittings well, use plenty of a tinned flux, make sure the valve is open so expanded gases can escape vesus blowing out the seals. Use a MAPP torch vs propane to heat quickly. Move torch around the valve body to distribute heat more evenly. Once you see a hint of green flame color near the joint, remove the flame and touch the solder to the far side of the joint. Good luck.
      Kevin

      Answered on 9/26/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I had the same question when I started, did a bunch of research.
      The answer is no, you don't have to take the valve apart to sweat
      solder them. They are specifically made of materials to withstand the
      soldering process (just don't go way overheating them). I've lost count
      of how many I've done that way now, no problems with any of them.
      Also, I found a bunch of professionals that said always sweat with
      the valve in the open position, and an equal number of professionals
      that said always sweat with the valve in the closed position, and a few
      that said doesn't matter. My conclusion was to sweat with the valve
      closed to eliminate the small possibility that a solder run would cause
      a problem with closing the valve, though that would indicate using too
      much solder and was not in fact ever close to an issue in my experience.
      Doesn't matter how clean they look, always clean them (& the
      pipe/fitting to mate) with steel wool or one of the wire brushes made
      for the purpose, and use separate brush-on flux.
      Joe

      Answered on 9/26/2012 by Joe from KS-Ranch, Nevada
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You can over heat any valve, but they are made to be soldered with out taking them apart and you do not have to use special solder or flux. I have install many with no trouble.
      Thank You,
      Sky Feaster, Master Plumber
      A Pipe Surgeon, Inc

      Answered on 9/26/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No Special materials. No disassembly. Use a map torch heat and sweat quick. Let solder solidify and cool valve body with damp rag.
      Chris

      Answered on 9/26/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      When you sweat a ball valve with Teflon there is a chance of overheating, I
      usually wrap the valve in a wet rag and keep the heat at a minimum. I now am
      a FAN of the Propress system. We have a large complex and because of the age
      we can't always shut off the water 100%. Thank You Propress

      Answered on 9/27/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No need to take it apart, but don't overheat it. Test the surface with
      your solder as you're heating it and lit it flow.
      Alan

      Answered on 9/27/2012 by Anonymous
  • 1-1/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve

    Q:

    Will this cement into a piece of 1 1/4 pvc pipe?
    Asked on 8/2/2012 by Rob from U.S.A,

    16 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      use 1 1/4 ips [threaded] ball vavle with 1 1/4 male adapter

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No. There is no cement for gluing PVC to brass. Probably the wrong
      pipe OD to fit also, but no point in going there.
      Use a FIP (female pipe thread) threaded ball valve and PVC MIP (male
      pipe thread) adapter if you want to use a brass ball valve.
      There are PVC ball valves available too, which will cement nicely
      directly onto PVC pipe.
      Joe

      Answered on 8/5/2012 by Joe from KS-Ranch, Nevada
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No it will not cement to pvc. This is ment to solder to copper pipe.

      Answered on 8/5/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      no you would have to use a 1 1/4 pvc male adapter and also an 1 1/4
      threaded valve

      Answered on 8/5/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      absolutely not. Sweat means solder. This valve is for copper pipe only.
      If you need to put a valve in pvc, use a full union pvc ball valve which
      you can use pvc glue, not abs glue and not rubber cement... stop by a home
      depot with questions like this!

      Answered on 8/4/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      no designed for solder

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No.

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      A truly unconventional way to use those items - bonding PVC to brass.  Use a copper X male adapter (WP4-20) and a female PVC to pipe adapter.

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No this is for soldering onto copper pipes
      John Rush
      Evolo Home Center
      Evolo Energy Solutions
      www.evolohomecenter.com
      www.evoloenergysolutions.com
      Sent from my U.S. Cellular® Android phone

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No. Try this...
      http://www.pexsupply.com/Matco-Norca-770T06-1-1-4-770-PVC-Ball-Valve-Threaded-Ends

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No. Buy a PCV ball valve. Much cheaper anyway.
      Mark Jefferson

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No, the Sweat refers to soldering, you can't solder to PVC. You should buy the NPT thread version of the ball valve and a PVC 1 ¼" threaded male adapter.
      Scott Sandquist

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      no needs soldered in to cooper pipe...

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Rob,
      While it is true that the size of the pipe and valve are CTS (Copper Tubing Size) and they would fit together, PVC pipe will NOT cement into a brass fitting.
      You need a PVC ball valve, or another type of connection that will work with the PVC pipe, such as Sharkbite or Gatorbite fitting.
      -LeeRen

      Answered on 8/3/2012 by Anonymous
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      It will not. This valve sweats to 1-1/4" copper.

      Answered on 8/17/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • 1/2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve

    Q:

    Is this valve compatible with glycol systems using 50/50 mix @ 95C
    Asked on 3/21/2012 by R

    5 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I use similar valves at near boiling temperatures with tap water.

      Answered on 3/21/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I would expect it is, I have never known a valve to not be compatible
      with glycol. I would guess the soldering process is hotter to the seal
      than glycol temperatures can reach. I have serviced glycol solar systems
      for 30 years. Your customer can contact me directly.

      Answered on 3/21/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Thats a mixed answer.... the short answer is yes.....
      However all systems that have gl in them will more that likely start to leak in places that would not leak in water only systems.
      Flush and clean the system before adding the glycol....proceed w/ caution.
      kpc

      Answered on 3/21/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I have used these valves in my house, they are good enough for my purpose.They can be used for water, gases, and oils, this one is 1/2" in and 1/2" out and you need to solder (sweat) it in place. Its brass and good for 600psi.. This is probably good enough for your application, but you need to find out what is the constant temp rating of the valve. I would use a valve that can handle twice as much as I am putting thru it, and go with a threaded valve, if its for industrial application s, for ease of r&r, and   s /s,  just because it will take on more abuse and has higher operating specs.  
      The best thing for you to do is to contact the valve manufacture and ask them for the valve spcs. The valve manufacturer along with your glycol producer should be the ONLY ones you should consult regarding what fluids and what type of valves/pumps etc, are compatible with each other.
      If this is an established business/ operation, why don't you just take the valve mfg # and serial # ( if theres one) and replace it with a propper replacement or an approved alternative?
      R.R.

      Answered on 3/21/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      It should be. Glycol is pretty friendly to the parts in this valve
      David

      Answered on 3/23/2012 by Another PexSupply Customer
  • 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve

    Q:

    Can you use this type of valve in a baseboard hot water feeding application, or is that too much heat..?
    Asked on 10/24/2011 by D from NH

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      This valve can handle the heat in baseboard applications, but it is not recommended for steam.

      Answered on 11/3/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • 1/2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve

    Q:

    DO YOU MAKE A 1/2 INCH BALL VALVE READY FOR PEX PIPE AND RING WITH A BLEEDER FEATURE TO BACK DRAIN WATER?

    SAM RIO
    Asked on 3/22/2011 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      We do not. You would need to buy a ball valve with a drain and add PEX adapters to the ball valve.

      Answered on 3/25/2011 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • 3/4" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve

    Q:

    What does the WOG stand for?
    Asked on 10/22/2010 by Anonymous

    1 answer

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      WOG is an abbreviation for water, oil, gas pressure rating. It represents the maximum allowed pressure under normal ambient temperature conditions.

      Answered on 10/25/2010 by PexSupply Staff from NY
Displaying questions 1-9

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