3/4" x 3" Galvanized Steel Dielectric Nipple w/ Pex Insulator Zoom

3/4" x 3" Galvanized Steel Dielectric Nipple w/ Pex Insulator

SKU:DNTT043

Brand: Matco-Norca

Matco-Norca
Qty Price
$1.69
/ each
$40.50 / box (25 units x $1.62)
In Stock! Ships in 24-48 Hours
(105 Available)
1

Specs

Size: 3/4" x 3"
Material: Galvanized Steel
Product Type: Dielectric Nipple
Max Pressure (PSI): 250 psi
Pressure Rating: 180°F @ 250 psi

Description for Matco-Norca DNTT043

Features:

  • Galvanized
  • Dielectric nipple
  • Thread x Thread
  • 3/4" x 3"
  • Used to properly connect different metal piping
  • Prevents the deterioration of the pipe connections and stray induced electrical currents
  • ASTM A-53 Galvanized steel schedule 40 nipples available in thread x thread, groove x groove, and thread x groove.
  • Meets ASTM F-492-95 and are temperature rated 110 C. / 230 F.

  • 3/4" x 3" Galvanized Steel Dielectric Nipple w/ Pex Insulator

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    Matco-Norca3/4"" x 3"" Galvanized Steel Dielectric Nipple w/ Pex Insulator
     
    5.0

    (based on 1 review)

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    Reviewed by 1 customer

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    5.0

    Nipple isolates steel from copper

    By solar hot water

    from San Francisco, CA

    Verified Buyer

    Comments about 3/4"" x 3"" Galvanized Steel Dielectric Nipple w/ Pex Insulator:

    I researched water heaters and how to avoid corrosion and electrolisis, and learned that dielectric nipples are a good way (better way) to go. In the past I had used dielectric unions, but they do corrode. I like that these nipples have a sturdy-looking pex insulator inside them. The nipple went into the port on the water heater, I used it on both hot and cold, and on the drain port. Next, I used a threaded brass coupling (or if I wanted an elbow, I used a threaded brass elbow). Then I used a copper male adaptor and ran the copper lines. I soldered the copper pipe to the male adaptor before screwing it to the brass fittings. I feel that I will not have a problem with electrolisis or corrosion since the pex insulator separates dis-similar metals. There is separation (and insulation) of the electrical charge generated by having dis-similar metals in water and any corosion will be away from the water heater. I like that you use this nipple at the water heater tank,then brass, then copper. (I am talking about common glass-lined steel tanks) No need for this if you have a stainless steel tank.
    For the drain of the water heater, I removed the hose bib drain which comes with the tank, but has a small diameter opening, and replaced it with a full-port ball valve. I used a dielectric nipple for the same reason already mentioned.
    I also plan to use these nipples when plumbing hose bibs in my garden where I use galvanized pipes to support the hose bib. I am in coastal california, and I don't need a frost-proof-hydrant. My underground pipe is PVC, burried 18 inches, and where the pvc attaches to galvanized pipe for the riser, this is what I do. I use a glue pvc to male adapter, then I use a threaded galv coupling, then a 12 inch or longer galv nipple, then a galv 90 elbow, then a 4 foot long galv pipe which is the riser that sticks out of the ground and holds the hose bib, then I use a galv coupling, then the dielectric nipple, then a brass T, then I install a hose bib on the t port of the T, and on the straight port of the T, I use a brass nipple, and a hose bib that has a downward pointing bib (called garden hose bib). Maybe the dielectric nipple isn't necessary here, but in the future I will use them whenever it makes sence. I have seen plenty of corroded galvanized pipes, so when plumbing with galvanized, it makes sence to use dielectric nipples

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