1" AQUAPEX Red - (300 ft. coil) Zoom

1" AQUAPEX Red - (300 ft. coil)

SKU:F2061000

Brand: Uponor (Wirsbo)

Uponor (Wirsbo)
Qty Price
$372.90
/ each
$719.70 / box (2 units x $359.85)
In Stock! Ships in 24-48 Hours
(3 Available)

Specs

Size: 1"
Color: Red
Length (Feet): 300'
Tubing Type: Non-Oxygen Barrier
Material: PEX
Application: Heating
Plumbing
Max Pressure (PSI): 160 psi
Grade:
?
PEX-a
Warranty: 25 Year
Standards Met: DIN4726
ASTM F877
NSF
Max Temp (F): 200°F

Description for Uponor (Wirsbo) F2061000

AQUAPEX tubing is used primarily in hot and cold potable water distribution systems and Wirsbo AQUASAFE fire sprinkler systems. AQUAPEX tubing is used in hydronic heating applications where the system contains no ferrous corrodible components or where any ferrous components are isolated from tubing. AQUAPEX tubing is not manufactured with an oxygen diffusion barrier. AQUAPEX tubing coils and straight lengths are available in natural, red and blue.

AQUAPEX is manufactured and listed to ASTM F876 and F877 and certified to NSF Standards 14 and 61. AQUAPEX tubing is rated and listed by the Hydrostatic Stress Board of PPI at 200 degrees F at 80 psi, 180 degrees F at 100 psi and 73.4 degrees F at 160 psi.

Note: Wirsbo 1/2" AQUAPEX tubing is listed to UL1821 and ULC/ORD C199 P and carries an additional rating of 120 degrees F at 130 psi.

What are the Uponor PEX standards?
Uponor PEX and associated fittings are manufactured to the following standards:

  • ASTM F876 "Standard Specification for Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX) Tubing"
  • ASTM F877 "Standard Specification for Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX) Plastic Hot and Cold Water Distribution Systems"
  • ASTM F1960 "Standard Specifications for Cold Expansion Fittings with PEX Reinforcing Rings for use with Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX) Tubing"
  • ASTM F2080 "Standard Specifications for Cold Expansion Fittings with Metal Compression Sleeves for Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX) Tubing"
  • CSA B137.5 Thermoplastic Pressure Piping Compendium
Additional standards for Uponor AquaPEX tubing and associated fittings include:
  • ANSI/NSF Standard 14 "Plastics Piping System Components and Related Materials"
  • ANSI/NSF Standard 61 "Drinking Water System Components - Health Effects"
  • UL 1821 "Standard for Safety for Thermoplastic Sprinkler Pipe and Fittings for Fire Protection Service" (1/2" Uponor AquaPEX only)
What code approvals does Uponor AquaPEX tubing have?
Uponor AquaPEX tubing is approved in the following codes:
  • IPC
  • UPC
  • NSP
  • IMC
  • UMC
  • NSPC
  • NPC of Canada
  • NBC of Canada
What listings does Uponor AquaPEX tubing have?
Uponor AquaPEX tubing has the following listings:
  • IAPMO
  • NSF
  • CSA
  • ITS
  • HUD
  • ICC
What fire-rated assemblies does Uponor AquaPEX tubing have?
  • G573 - Two-hour Hambro floor/ceiling assembly
  • K913 - Two-hour concrete floor/ceiling assembly
  • L557 - One-hour wood frame floor/ceiling assembly
  • U372 - One-hour wood frame wall assembly
  • V444 - One-hour steel stud wall assembly

1" AQUAPEX Red - (300 ft. coil)

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
Uponor (Wirsbo)1/2"" AQUAPEX Red (100 ft. coil)
 
4.9

(based on 159 reviews)

Ratings Distribution

  • 5 Stars

     

    (150)

  • 4 Stars

     

    (6)

  • 3 Stars

     

    (2)

  • 2 Stars

     

    (0)

  • 1 Stars

     

    (1)

98%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Most Liked Positive Review

 

I would use this in my next house

we used this in our floor of a dubble wide.With no connection under floor.The tubeing is graet for goning around object inthe floor or walls.It does not bend well in the cold .

we used this in our floor of a dubble wide.With no connection under floor.The tubeing is graet for goning around object inthe floor or walls.It does not bend well in the cold .

VS

Most Liked Negative Review

 

shipping wrap

This product is very good with one exception,
The plastic wrap that is designed to use from
the inside works great until the last two wraps,
at this time it is...Read complete review

This product is very good with one exception,
The plastic wrap that is designed to use from
the inside works great until the last two wraps,
at this time it is cheaper to throw away the last two coils than to try to get it out of the plastic
The time it takes to free the pipe from the wrap
totally wipes out any savings from the product.

Reviewed by 159 customers

Sort by

Displaying reviews 1-10

Back to top

Previous | Next »

 
5.0

Heavy duty quality

By Alligator

from Lafayette, LA

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1-1/4" AQUAPEX White - (300 ft. coil):

We used this pipe to run a free flowing hot water line from a boiler unit. I dreaded unrolling it because of my experience running rigid lowes 3/4" pex. This Aquapex is tough, but once unrolled, has surprisingly low memory and was much easier to work with than anticipated. It has thick walls, but cuts very easily with a hose/pipe cutter. We opted for the sharkbite fittings instead of crimps and they went on very easily. We have not tested the system yet, but expect it to do exactly as we like. The only negative I can think of is that it took a while to get our bulk rolls because they were not in stock. Great product and will use again in the future.

 
5.0

Very easy to work with

By John

from East Tenn

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" AQUAPEX Blue - (300 ft. coil):

This was my first time working with pex tubing and Aguapex was easy to work with, very flexible compared to Pex-B. I bought some big-box store pex tubing to try before using Aquapex (it was very stiff and difficult to bend at 90 degrees).

 
5.0

Excellent product!

By Hereswhit

from Queens, NY

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" AQUAPEX Blue - (100 ft. coil):

Running new water lines in my basement remodel and with the pex tubing it was a breeze!

 
5.0

1" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

By Ryoung

from Lakeland MN

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil):

This is good stuff.

 
5.0

Pex A is GREAT

By Crawford Home

from Pgh Pa 15212

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" AQUAPEX Blue - (100 ft. coil):

YES
It do not brack win frozen

 
5.0

very good tubing

By bob

from mcdaniels ky

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" AQUAPEX Blue - (100 ft. coil):

very pleased with this tubing

 
5.0

Bullet proof pex

By Martin d

from Elk River, MN

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil):

I use this Aquapex to install an outdoor wood boiler years ago. More than once the fire went out and I didn't make it home before the lines froze solid. They held up fine. Amazing! Also, it's a breeze to work with.

 
5.0

I would buy this product again

By Dave

from PA

Verified Buyer

Comments about 3/4" AQUAPEX Blue - (100 ft. coil):

Excellent product. Easily worked with, very bendable, great product.
The best was not needing any fittings in between thanks to the bend supports.

 
5.0

Best Pex Pipe

By Josh G.

from Gardner, Ks

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1" AQUAPEX Blue - (100 ft. coil):

This is great pex pipe. I am installing this in a new house and it has been put in without any problems. I'm using Pex-a with propex fittings and they are very easy to install. Very happy.

 
5.0

Good stuff

By Once a plumber always a plumber

from Henderson, TX

Verified Buyer

Comments about 1/2" AQUAPEX Blue - (300 ft. coil):

As a former plumbing contractor with 17 years experience, I've installed thousands of feet of this stuff in numerous houses including my last personal house and the one that I am currently building with no issues. It's freeze tolerant, corrosion resistant, reliable, and economical. You still need to use some copper for your tub/shower valves, sink stub outs, water heater stub outs etc. but it requires much less copper than a house would normally require. I've always used the expander rings because that's what was available back when I got started with pex. I use a regular two handled pump up tool that was only about 75 bucks with the heads but it seems like only the battery powered ones are offered these days. Installation is easy. Simply slide the appropriate ring onto the pipe, pump it up, remove your pump up tool once the head is in all the way in and then quickly put the fitting into the pipe. In the summer the pipe will shrink very quickly so you don't have much time to insert the fitting; however in the winter when it's cold it takes a while for the pipe and ring to shrink onto the fitting so give it more time before you go on to something else so your fitting doesn't slide out. Once that stuff shrinks there's no getting it off. But, a nice feature is that you can still spin the fitting around in the pipe after it shrinks. This helps with later connections. Also, if you're going to solder onto a copper stub out at a later time, make sure you have about 18" of copper pipe before you transition to pex so it doesn't melt when you put a torch to it. With that being said, the pre-made stub outs are great time savers for sinks, toilets etc but things like water heaters, hose bibbs etc that need to be soldered you'll need to make the stub out yourself. Just buy a brass adapter and a copper 90. No big deal just a little more time consuming. I've had good luck with the regular black plastic fittings and recommend the tube talons so you can strap it down.

Displaying reviews 1-10

Back to top

Previous | Next »

Q&A: Ask the Questions, share answers

Do you have questions about this product?

get answers from real customers and in-house experts with AnswerBox.

88 Questions | 269 Answers
Displaying questions 1-10Previous | Next »
  • 3" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    We have an industry which is using black pipe for potoble water supply now. The piipe is rusted and we need to repalce this pipe, The temperature will be approximatley 125 deg. ambient with city supply water probably about 80 deg. can we use this pipe in the place of a galvinized pipe and expect the same life and durability of the galvinized.
    Asked on 4/7/2014 by allen sr from kosciusko, ms

    9 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Yes you can and it will out last any metal pipe including copper or brass. Just remember you will have to support it (clamp or strap it) in very short intervals (about every 12"). We have used it for the same application and any place it may rub or wear we placed insulation on it.
      Great product
      Good Luck

      Answered on 4/8/2014 by The Helper from Mid NY State
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I think this is the best pipe you can buy. When you use the proper fittings
      and the pipe is protected from damage the pipe should last indefinitely.

      Answered on 4/8/2014 by Normie from Montgomery County Pa
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Aquapex has been trouble free. Would use again.
      Charlie

      Answered on 4/8/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      There are several replies to that. Is the pipe going to lay in direct
      sunlight? If not the answer is probably yes, if it is in direct sunlight
      no. Direct sunlight requires black to reduce cracking.
      You also did not state the pressure that it would see.
      I hope this was helpful.

      Answered on 4/7/2014 by Old Man from Port Lavaca Tx
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The Uponor main North America office is in Apple Valley, MN. I would call them on that. I know that many commercial buildings use Uponor Pex instead of copper these days. My gut says it should be fine, but I would ask the manufacturer this question.
      - Greg
      Greg Scott
      Infrasupport Corporation

      Answered on 4/7/2014 by Greg Scott from Minnesota
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      This tubing will survive longer then galvanized pipe. Clean water, no additives. Tubing installation required proper fitting and I recommend UV light protection (sunlight, metal halide bulbs,sodium bulbs, mercury bulbs). Please follow local building code, this tubing will melt in event of fire without proper protection. For 20 years I never see AquaPEX fail. On longer distance I use. Polyethylene tubing (black poly tubing) with proper pressure rating - lower price alternative. Thanks.

      Answered on 4/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Yes. The pex should last longer than any iron or copper system.
      Thank You,
      Daniel F. Walker
      e: <mailto:****@***.***> ****@***.***

      Answered on 4/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You didn't specify the size of your existing black steel pipe, if it is in
      the current Aquapex available sizes, I would recommend replacing with
      Aquapex, so easy to work with. Steel galvanized pipes will build-up
      sediments inside, thus reducing the inside diameter and therefore the flown
      of water, and eventually will rust.
      Talk to the people at Pex Supply, they will guide you through the process
      from A to Z.
      Good luck.
      Gilbert.

      Answered on 4/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      My experience with the Uponor pex is very positive. Here in the North Carolina mountains, copper tubing is rapidly degraded due to the chemical make-up of the well water. The same
      goes for steel pipe. The choices have been CPVC and pex. I was attracted to the Uponor system because of the nature of the compression fittings... there are no metal compression
      rings that will eventually leak. The formula for the pipe requires it to be continually contracting and renewing the grip on the fitting. It may be something of a pain to make the
      joint, but you are assured of a leak free joint if it is done property. As to the material, it is a plastic that does nothing... there is no chemical or galvanic action. The
      temperatures that you suggest, in my experience, are not a problem. For your peace of mind, you can contact the manufacturer for their cut sheet that will give you the parameters
      under which the pipe has been designed to work. Personally, I'd never go back to the old copper tubing style I used for forty years.

      Answered on 4/7/2014 by Smokey from NC mountains
  • 1" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    Can I use to replace my black plastic under ground well pipe. Do I need the barrier type? The present pipe started to leak ( I think it froze) Plan to replace in the spring. The black plastic is running from the detached garage storage tank to the home. The water goes from the well to the garage then to the home.
    Asked on 2/6/2014 by Bill from New Castle, P:A

    9 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I used Aquapex for potable water and it worked fine however I would not recommend that it be placed where it can freeze - repeated freeze thaw cycles will weaken the Aquapex and it will also start to leak. I have no experience using Aquapex with a heat tape but that might be a way to prevent further damage?

      Answered on 2/11/2014 by Charlie from Harmony (Laramie) Wyoming
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Yes. you don't barrier [for heating only]

      Answered on 2/8/2014 by Normie from Montgomery County Pa
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      According to Uponor's installation manual, AQUAPEX is rated for underground
      water service. See the attached manual (pages 26-27) and follow the
      installation instructions. If the manual isn't attached, I've included
      instructions from the manual below (but the pictures won't come through).
      You can also download from Uponor's site or the following link (
      http://www.uponorpro.com/~/media/Extranet/Files/plumbing%20literature/PLU_InsG_P731_0213.aspx?sc_lang=en&version=0***.****2).
      You also need to follow your local building code. At a minimum, bury the
      line below your local frost depth or whatever is required by your building
      code, whichever is more stringent. Some other ideas to consider are:
      - Burying the tubing in a shallow layer of sand to avoid rocks puncturing
      the pipe.
      - Some people like to install may recommend installing the tubing through a
      larger PVC conduit, but this may conflict with Uponor's instructions to
      "snake" the tubing.
      - After layering a couple inches of sand or fine dirt over the tubing, you
      could put a 2x board over the top which will help avoid shovels from
      puncturing the line if anyone decides to dig in that area in the future.
      Water Service Phase
      Uponor AquaPEX tubing meets the requirements of the following standard:
      • ANSI/AWWA Standard C904-06, Crosslinked Polyethylene (PEX) 1⁄2 inch
      (12mm) through 3 inches (76mm) for Water Service
      Please refer to the ANSI/AWWA Standard for information regarding the
      selection, use and proper application of PEX tubing in water service.
      Handling and Repairs
      Although Uponor AquaPEX tubing is highly resistant to kinking and abrasion,
      it is important to handle with care while installing the tubing to prevent
      damage and possible failure. If damage occurs during installation, cut out
      and repair the area before backfilling. To reform kinked tubing, refer to
      Section 2: Reforming Kinked Uponor AquaPEX Tubing on page 9. If damaged
      beyond the thermal memory capacity of the tubing, use a ProPEX repair
      coupling that is suitable for direct burial. Note: Do not reuse or reclaim
      EP fittings.
      Trench Bottom
      Preparation
      For a successful installation, the supporting soil must provide a stable
      and continuous support for the tubing.
      Good Soil Conditions
      If the trench cut is relatively smooth, install the tubing directly on the
      prepared bottom. The bottom must be flat with no hollows, lumps or rocks.
      Bad Soil Conditions
      If installing in rocky, clay, muddy or other poor soil conditions, it may
      be necessary to prepare the trench bottom using granular material of such
      size and grading to provide a stable base. See your local code for
      additional requirements.
      Installation
      Install Uponor AquaPEX tubing underground in a manner that avoids damage
      caused by external loads. External loads should not cause a decrease in the
      vertical dimension of the tubing cross-section more than 5% of the outside
      diameter. To ensure proper underground installation:
      • Install Uponor AquaPEX tubing in a snaking pattern with sufficient slack
      in the line to allow for contraction of the line due to temperature change
      prior to backfilling.
      • The linear expansion rate for Uponor AquaPEX tubing is approximately 1.1"
      per 10°F (5.6°C) temperature change for every 100' of tubing.
      • Do not use blocking to support the tubing or change the tubing grade.
      • Do not install potable water service tubing in, under or above cesspools,
      septic tanks, septic tank drainage fields or pits.

      Answered on 2/8/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The standard Uponor Aquapex will do fine as a water supply line. The beauty of pex is that it can freeze and thaw without structural damage... that is the pipe, not fitting
      connections. Pex cannot be exposed to sunlight, so be prepared to shield all pex from the sun, and bury it deep enough to be below the frost line and where it is not subject to
      physical damage. Any time a plastic pipe is buried in the ground, a metallic tracer should be buried with it as a locator. Since you are not using this product for under slab
      heating, the barrier type pipe is not necessary... it does very fine as a water supply pipe.

      Answered on 2/7/2014 by Smokey from NC mountains
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      pex would be a good choice the barrier. type is not necessary that is for heating systems
      Sent from my U.S. Cellular® smartphone

      Answered on 2/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I'll bet Uponor has a customer service line that could help answer that question. When I did my project, it was all for indoor plumbing and didn't look at any in-ground or in-floor stuff. I live close to Uponor's US headquarters and I drove over there and walked around the campus like I owned the place. I ended up talking to a gentleman in his office and he gave me a great demo. So I'm an Uponor fan.
      http://www.uponor-usa.com/
      - Greg
      Greg Scott
      Infrasupport Corporation

      Answered on 2/6/2014 by Greg Scott from Minnesota
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I am not the best person to ask for that application. As far as I am aware the pec is susceptible to bursting under freezing conditions, but please verify.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 2/6/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You can replace the black pipe with PEX pipe underground without any protection. I would recommend bearing it deeper so that you don't freeze in cold weather. The good thing about pecks pipe is if it does freeze it won't rupture like your black pipe did. It depends on what part of the country you're from but you might have to bury a pipe's deepest green beans and some of the northern regions.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 2/6/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The PEX would be preferable to the poly pipe.  You need to ensure that the PEX is not exposed to UV over time.

      Answered on 2/6/2014 by Anonymous
  • 3/4" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    CaN pex be used under a house without freezing?, also it will be out of direct sunlight if that helps answer the question. Which product would be the best?. I don't me installing in a slab.
    Asked on 1/6/2014 by Anonymous from Ackerman, MS

    10 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I imagine the factors around freezing non-pex piping is the same for pex
      piping. Some form of insulation would be needed to keep any pipe from
      freezing, including pex.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      If you are going to pour a slab foundation, Pex is fine below the slab. It
      sounds as if you are in cold country and I ami in S Texas.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Old Man from Port Lavaca Tx
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      PEX pipe will freeze! It is however almost impossible the rupture. So after thaw your water will flow.
      PEX pipe does not like sun light! You must protect the pipe from sun light or it will deteriorate.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I'd check the international residential building code. I remember seeing
      particular specs for burying pipe. After that, check to see if your locality
      has additional codes that apply. Typically, I've seen pex routed through
      attics. Not sure if I get your question, but if you're going to pour "hot"
      concrete, the pH is going to be through the rough until it cures (very
      alkaline). Not sure if pex is designed to withstand that kind of extreme pH.
      Most of the CPVC and copper I've seem come through the slab of new
      construction has a blue or red vinyl sheath around it, probably as a
      chemical and mechanical barrier between the pipe and concrete.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Like anything it needs to be insulated. Left bare, it will freeze. Pex can
      expand when frozen and goes back to its original shape without bursting.
      Fittings on the other hand may break. I am not sure what your statement of I
      don't me installing in slab means. I have radiant pex tubing in my slab and
      it works great. You need to use a HEPex, not aquapex for it. to make best
      use of it and be most efficient, you should install at a minimum of 2 inches
      of blue insulation, not pink, and not polyisuanurate. Blue works best and
      won't crush/fatigue over time. You should attache the pex to the metal mesh
      using metal ties. No run should be more than 300 feet max. a also recommend
      buying guides to ensure the tubing come up from the slab perfectly straight
      for tying into the system. They also make insultarps for going under it all.
      The biggest take away is that you want the heat to go up, not into the
      ground. The more you can insulate underneath, the better your heat will
      perform.
      Hope that helps.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by FredRuckel from New York
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      To begin, read the manufacturer's instructions for installation. They will cover all the locations where it can be installed. From what you've described, you are intending to run
      lines beneath a house. If the floor is a raised floor (under floor joists), as long as you support the tubing adequately and don't have any fittings or joints in a run, the pex
      should work just fine. Make up you joints in a heated area. From what I've read, the Uponor pex can freeze solid and return to its original shape... I don't know about other brands
      or types. As mentioned above, this is providing that there are no joints in the area subject to freezing. I know that they regularly run pex in slabs for radiant heat, but I would
      locate the pex buried under the concrete if I were using it for water supply... use a sleeve when coming through the slab. As with the under raised floor installation, don't have
      any joints beneath the concrete and place the pex in clear sand (no rocks or big pebbles) buried beneath the slab.
      Hope this helps... I personally like the Uponor product and haven't had any problems. Also,remember you will need an expansion tool specifically designed for the product to
      fabricate the joints... buy one or work out a long term sharing arrangement in case you need to do repairs.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Smokey from NC mountains
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I don't see how. Pex transfers heat or cold to the water. I do not have
      personal experience with the cold as all of my plumbing is inside, but where
      the cold water lines cross over and are laying on the forced air ducts, they
      pick up the heat from the ducts. I plan on putting some Styrofoam sheets
      between the Pex and the ducts, but it is not an urgent task for me.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      It can be installed under a house where the temperature is above
      freezing. As you mentioned, out of direct sunlight.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Any water pipe should always be on the warm side of a house to prevent
      freezing. The water will freeze in PEX just like it would in copper. Most
      likely the pipe won't burst like a copper pipe would, but it's not worth
      the risk. If it's outside such as under a crawl space the pipe should be
      drained for winter or freezing temperatures.

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I don't think I quite under stand " under a house"
      You can use oxygen barrier pex in a slab .must be in center of concrete pour.
      You must insulate under the slab and above the base of item 4 compacted.
      Also it needs to designed with some care. You can't just put one continuous loop.
      You need to put in sub loops with manifolds . Not exceeding '300 per sub loop.
      Tempered water during operation depending on design. Roughly 120°f supply with a 20° dif.
      This is not something to try for a DIY with out guidance.
      Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

      Answered on 1/7/2014 by bobo from ny
  • 1/2" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    Hello,

    When Installing 1/2" or 3/4" Aquapex white tubing for tile floor radiant heating, how far or close is the code on where can be if it is near a wall? For example of there is radiant heating pex laid down in a bathroom that is already tiled and completely finished how far is it supposed to be from the bathroom wall as per code?
    Asked on 11/18/2013 by Louis from Monterey, CA

    4 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      need more information. are you putting this in the concrete? oxygen barrier pex is required for it to be installed in concrete. 8" from other pex and walls is fine with 1/2 . but I don't think you intending to install this correctly . need more info on your intentions .

      Answered on 11/20/2013 by bobo from ny
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Radiant heating have low temperature heating process and need some time to heat surface(room). I do not believe radiant heating damage any floor. There is many type of installation available: hi mass(3"-4" concrete slab), low mass( tubing laid down on subfloor and filled with dry pack grout 1"-1 1/2" thick, or tubing can be attached to plywood in between floor joists with insulation below tubing, rare in walls and ceiling. In new construction heat loss calculation needed to verify boiler size, zoning and have drawings for tubing/manifold installation. In average tubing lay down there is 6" for bathrooms, 9" for rooms and 12" for utility area. For example if I installing tubing in living room there is 9 inch from wall to first line and 9" in average between tubing. Size for one loop 180-220'. Four loops manifold work for 1000 sq ft floor. I never use 3/4" tubing for loops, only for supply and return. For heating equipment without iron Aquapex is fine. Hepex for cast iron boilers/pumps. You may google "in floor tubing layout" web and images for more info. Thanks ans good luck.

      Answered on 11/18/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I don't think you want the regular PEX for heating applications. They make a specific version of pipe for that application.

      Answered on 11/18/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      First you can't use radiant or baseboard hot water with aqua pex. YOU MUST
      USE HE pex which has Oxygen barrier. U can use same fittings for
      both. As for spacing there is no code. 8" centers are the norm. however
      make sure u insulate under the slab and sides or else u will leak a lot of
      heat which equals MONEY in energy cost.

      Answered on 11/18/2013 by I.E.G from Pa
  • 3/4" AQUAPEX Blue - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    Is Pex A compatible with CTS type fittings?
    Asked on 11/1/2013 by Dave from Ohio

    4 answers

    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      PEX-A tubing is compatible with any type of standard PEX fittings. It works with any push-fit style fittings that are listed for use with CTS pipe (i.e. PEX, copper, and CPVC).

      Answered on 11/27/2013 by PexSupply Staff from NY
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You can use any type of PEX with these fittings. I have also use them on
      copper and polyethylene. I use them on cold water only. I would use these in
      accessible areas only - check to make sure there are no scratches on the
      tubing - Mark the depth of the fittings on the pipe, to make sure it goes in
      all the way. I think these are great fittings, I have only had a few leak,
      they showed up right away.
      ,

      Answered on 11/3/2013 by Normie from Montgomery County Pa
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Thats one I am not sure of. To the best of my memory CTS is used in motor
      homes and if it is the answer is no. Sorry i cant be of more help.

      Answered on 11/1/2013 by Old Man from Port Lavaca Tx
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Although I've not used the CTS fittings before, I understand that they are compatible with the Aquafex pipe. Check out this link.
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXbO1CrchhQ

      Answered on 11/1/2013 by BACKWOODSMACK from TN.
  • 1/2" AQUAPEX White - (1000 ft. coil)

    Q:

    Hi. I want to run a direct bury line from a well to storage tanks which are 1000 ft away. I do not need a high flow rate but prefer a low rate so as to not tax the well pump, just for filling and refilling the tanks as needed. The line will run in a trench along side a gravel driveway and our winter temp gets down to 10 degrees f I prefer not to run the line inside another pvc or conduit line as that would be duplication. Which pipe would best serve this use?
    Asked on 8/18/2013 by John from United States

    5 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Sorry, but I don't really have an answer. My first concern would be the pressure drop over such a long distance at any reasonable flow rate. It seems like 1/2" pipe will cause too much of a drop at normal (e.g. 100 psi) pump pressures. Be sure to check the pressure drop before using small pipe.
      There are pressure drop calculators (fill in the pipe, desired gpm, etc.) on the web you might be able to take advantage of.

      Answered on 8/23/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I direct buried about 100 feet of 1 inch PEX about 3 years ago and it is
      running fine also the flexibility made laying it much easier. With 1000 ft
      you will have some high line losses, so you will want to do the
      calculations to ensure that your pump can push any water that far, larger
      lines (3/4 or 1 inch) will reduce the losses a lot.

      Answered on 8/19/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Yes and you will need to bury below your frost line and protect anything
      above frost line from freezing. Insulated PEX will be best but standard will

      Answered on 8/19/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I think 3/4" black polyethylene tubing 75psi rating 1 1/2 - 2 ft deep. Flat ground surface and shallow well - rating on psi may be lower. If no back flow preventer valves on tubing and no water inside tubing after pumping - depth may be decreased. If You pump uphill use 1" tubing. 1/2 tubing not good for 1000' pumping, wasting energy for pump motor and large load on pump. Same on electric wire, longer distance- larger diameter. Use Aquapex for in home plumbing. Thanks

      Answered on 8/18/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Check with your local code on bury depth for waterlines. I would bet two feet. I also would not use the PEX for run. Save money use PVC and when you transition into your structure switch to PEX. I would run a minimum of 1 inch line but for that distance bigger is better. Good luck.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 8/18/2013 by Anonymous
  • 1-1/4" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    I have major water pressure drop off when two appliances are used, for example, washing machine and shower.
    I have 3/4 copper main line (from city water) coming in and am replacing entire plumbing with PEX. Now just to chose the size PEX. I noticed PEX Inner Dimension is smaller then Copper ID. PEX 1" ID is only slightly larger then Copper 3/4" ID.
    Will I have any issues going to 1" PEX or even 1 1/4" PEX for my main lines and will this help or hurt my water pressure issues?
    Thanks! :)
    Asked on 7/1/2013 by Aurora from United States

    3 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You may have a lot of build up in the lines contributing to your pressure loss.  I have seen lines that had no more than a quarter inch of flow because of this.

      Answered on 7/1/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Of course it depends on your water pressure from the source,  but I have never had any problem using 3/4"  Pex and then reducing to half inch at the fixture.

      Answered on 7/1/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Dear Aurora,
      It is my understanding that employing a smaller dimension supply line
      increases the pressure. In other words, if you are having water pressure
      problems it may be that your current supply lines are too large and rather
      than using 3/4² lines you should down-size to 1/2² to solve the problem,
      rather than looking for a larger dimension line which would only make the
      problem worse than it already is. Of course, I do not know the specifics of
      your problem so this is no more than a guess at resolving the issue. I¹m
      sorry that I cannot be more helpful.

      Answered on 7/2/2013 by Anonymous
  • 3/4" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    I wish to run 1/2" and 3/4" pex underneath a new tile bathroom floor that will have electric radiant heating embedded in the tile mortar. Assuming a radiant reflective barrier is installed under the subfloor and the space immediately beneath the subfloor is fully insulated with fiberglass insulation, how much clearance/spacing is needed between the subfloor and the pex? Does it matter if tubing insulation is wrapped around the pex? Thx
    Asked on 6/25/2013 by Barney

    3 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Just enough to prevent any rubbing or chaffing of the PEX as it will move to
      some degree.

      Answered on 6/25/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      You installing too much different materials. I call that overengineering and overspending. Tubing fine with 180F heat, is Your floor ever heated to this temperature? Insulation inside the building never work because low temperature difference between interior walls. I did touch myself radiant reflectors too. Tubing and liquid inside will take structure temperature over time. Run tubing like You want, protect against metal and sharp edge, screws... Allow expending and retraction. If You pump liquids in tubing with 40-80F different then structure, insulate tubing. Thanks

      Answered on 6/25/2013 by Anonymous
    • CUSTOMER CARE

      A:

      There should normally be about an inch between the subfloor and the top of the tubing in suspended-pipe installations, with two inches between the bottom of the tubing and the reflective insulation. Suspended-pipe applications require these gaps so that convection currents can be created in the joist bay.

      Answered on 6/28/2013 by PexSupply Staff from NY
  • 3/4" AQUAPEX Red - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    Does it matter what color of pex I use in my house? I guess I'm asking if they are color coded? If so can I just run all hot water pex thru out the whole house hold?
    Asked on 6/4/2013 by Mercedes from Odessa Tx

    15 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The color of pex tubing is for easy identification and has nothing to do with performance. Most plumbers use blue for cold lines and red for hot but that is only convention.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      It is the same material if that is what you are asking.
      Use white pex if you are not going to Color code.
      Sent from iPhone

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Original PEX was white/clear. Now it is offered in red and blue also. It
      is the same tubing for all three, I color code my jobs to make it easier.
      Red for hot blue for cold.

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The color is purely for convenience. There is no structural or chemical difference at all. You can run blue, red or white to any water service!
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      AquaPEX red vs blue vs white only matter if you care about color coding
      your pipes; there is no material difference in the products.

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Does not matter. Suggest white if using all one color. Does not have the blue or red outer layer that can be affected by vapors from spray urethane foam.
      Bill Elmer

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No, there is no diff in material between colors. I ran clear throughout my
      house and just used colored rings.
      ryan_jpeg

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Any of the Uponer aquapex products are suitable for domestic water. The color coding is for convenience. Some products such as hepex are rated for heating systems only.

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Does not matter. Can use white, blue or red, but if using one color, I suggest the white. Blue and red have the dye in the outer layer, and it can be affected by vapors from spray urethane foam. Happened to me, but white was not affected. Made it hard to put fittings on the blue and red.

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Doesn't matter. You can use colored O-rings to see what pipe have hot or cold water. For hot water supply please use Aquapex tubing and do not oversize tubing ( long time wait at faucet for hot water with large tubing installed) Thanks

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      No, it doesn't matter. The colors are for convenience to identify hot and
      cold lines (generally red for hot and blue for cold). All the colors are
      identical in performance. So, if you are only running one type of water,
      heated or unheated, then it doesn't matter. If you are running both hot and
      cold, I strongly recommend that you go with the 2 color system to make hook
      up more problem free.

      Answered on 6/4/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      As far as I know there is no difference between red or blue pex.
      I ran 1/2" pex and used red-for-hot/blue-for-cold. It made deciphering which goes where easier when I connected the individual lines to the manifolds.

      Answered on 6/5/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Sorry code will be differed for each city/county. I used color to identify HOT/COLD water.
      Phuong

      Answered on 6/5/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      Hello,
      It does matter when in the future you need to track a pipe for repairs, the color coding is designed to make repairs easier,and fixture installation trouble free(such as accidently reversing hot and cold on a tub or shower.)
      So personally after 35 years of being in the trade, I wouldn't use all red.. red and white is ok, red and blue is better.
      Yours Truly
      Rob Dinnell

      Answered on 6/5/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      i am not sure if you ever got an answer but the color of the PEX does no
      effect its use. It is color coded to ensure that the runs can be
      identified in projects. The color is just a layer on the outside.

      Answered on 6/10/2013 by Anonymous
  • 1-1/2" AQUAPEX White - (100 ft. coil)

    Q:

    Has anyone had experience using this PEX tubing in an automotive or transit application?
    I am planning to use it for a heating application on a vehicle and the water temps from the heater will be quite high (180F) in order to keep fluid temp high over a long distance of tubing.

    Also, is there any experience with PEX tubing's performance with vehicle vibration? Any cracking over time?
    Asked on 5/3/2013 by Matt from United States

    5 answers

    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      that is way high temp for Pex,Check out the floor heating type of Pex for temp limits. I would be concerned over vibration if it contacts any metal as it lies.
      Yours Truly
      Rob Dinnell

      Answered on 5/3/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      The red pex is for hot water bot is not rated for that high of temperatures. Use standard automotive heater hoses. They are have reinforcement fiber in them.

      Answered on 5/3/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      They have been using Pex in motor homes for years just make sur you use the yards when penetrating through metal. Good luck.
      Sent from my iPhone

      Answered on 5/3/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      If no one use this tubing in vehicles do not try to use it. I think neoprene rubber hose is best for automotive application. 180F is fine for Aqapex, tubing rate 180F - 100psi, 200F - 80psi. Tubing is fine with vibration w/out mechanical contact. I beleive Propex plastic fittings is no good for Your application but You can use compression fittings. You can use steam rubber hose if pressure/temperature is high. Ebay have listing for steam Goodyear Flexsteel $40 for 50'. This hose can support 250psi for boiling water.

      Answered on 5/3/2013 by Anonymous
    • VERIFIED BUYER

      A:

      I have not had specific experience but it should be good in this
      application with a couple of provisions - 1st - guard the tubing from
      radiant heat from exhaust system (manifold, catalytic converter, exhaust
      pipe, etc) [do this with heat shield/insulation. 2nd - try to use bends
      versus fittings to leave extra flex in system (to allow for movement which
      the engine WILL experience) 3rd - I would use metal fittings where the
      tubing attaches to the engine or mechanical components. 4th - make sure
      routing and quick ties keep the tubing away from mechanical abrasion.
      FYI - crosslinked polyethylene should not become brittle for years - as
      long as it is not exposed to extended periods of sunlight.
      Hope that helps
      Robert Spears

      Answered on 5/3/2013 by Anonymous
Displaying questions 1-10Previous | Next »

Do you have a question about this product? 

SupplyHouse.com Logo

Join Our Mailing List - Sign up and receive special offers and coupons