
| Product Type: | Humidifier w/Control |
|---|---|
| Width (Inches): | 11-1/4" |
| Height (Inches): | 9" |
| Color: | Empire Gray |
| Length (Inches): | 19" |
| Application: | Air Quality |
| Mount: | Duct or Remote (up to 20 FT) |
| Voltage: | 120v |
| Type: | Steam |
| Capacity: | 9 Gallons/day |
| Capacity (Gallons/day): | 9 |
| Control: | H8908 manual humidistat |
| Temperature Range (F): | 34°F - 104°F |
It has no fan. It just creates steam. Think of it like a tea kettle.
Unfortunately without the forced airflow you won't get any of the humidity distributed throughout your location. This device works much like a room steam vaporizor where steam comes out, but the only flow motion is caused by the boiling and steam pressure. Dan *Dan Hoyer, * *CEO, President* *Global Network Pros * a division of: DPH Network Services, Inc. dan@ <****@***.***>globalnetworkpros.com
This humidifier work like boiling kettle. If You have no blower with in Your duct I do not recommend this humidifier. Thanks
I can't answer your question about down flow, but there are details for wiring into your fan. Mine is wired so that when humidity is low, the fan comes on automatically, even if the heat is off. This was all laid out in the installation manual. Jon
The hose installation for downflow is covered in this pdf manual: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=VavCU7CRPIieyASn6oDwDg&url=http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/HWremotemouninstallinso.pdf&cd=2&ved=0CB4QFjAB&usg=AFQjCNHO-L8MRaVOYSpaV8uPXype_VLvdQ&sig2=QnTi3SV4Yg22sFFerYaNKA Basicaly you need a drip T at the lowpoint, then the steam hose should slope up from there. Honeywell has great manuals on this unit that cover electrical, installation, filtering and testing water, and most if not all types of air handling systems. You can find them all on the Honeywell website. I read all of the manuals befor even purchasing my humidifier. Very happy with the unit and its performance. Minimal yearly maintenance when installed properly. Hope this helps! Dan
Yes, check honeywells website on how to install the remote kit with a downward slope on the remote hose. Essentially you put a "swag" in the remote hose causing a trap point for the condensate to pool at. This low point is drained to an actual trap then to a condensate pump or house sewer system following all applicable codes. Suggestion....if you use a condensate pump I recommend one for a condensing gas furnace. Not for handling the potential acids due to their should be none with the true steam but to handle the hot condensate from the condensed steam. I would also ensure all piping tubing etc was rated for a minimum of 180 deg farenheight and ensure none of your drain system is exsposed to temps at or below freezing without proper freeze protection. Hope this helps. Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S®4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
Should do just fine. Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S®4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
The Trusteam calculator should help you, but it isn't as simple as "how well will it work in X square feet..." I have about 1600 square feet, and 9 gallons works great, but construction is somewhat to relatively tight, since I live in NE Wisconsin, keeping the humidity in fairly well. Your mileage may vary, and I mean significantly, based on weather, construction, air handling system etc. Even to the extent of needing two of these in some cases. Hope this helps. Dan
expensive, will work non stop( increase Your electric bill), costly maintenance. One i have - good quality, bacteria free humidity, some times not enough humidity in the house. Thanks
I installed this in a 3 story, 4200 sq ft Charlotte NC area home that was built in 2006, and it worked great. I had 2 furnace/A/C units, and I installed this on my lower unit furnace only (as I'm sure you have noticed with your own 3-story home, heat rises, so the upper unit (if you have separate units) works a lot in the summer, but not much in the winter). Just remember to change the water supply filter yearly, and clean the tank every month or two, depending on your water hardness. I'm buying another for my new house, once I figure out how to install it in a horizontally mounted furnace in a crawlspace. Again, our upstairs unit doesn't run at all in the winter, and it got down to 9 degrees this week, so I'm only getting it for the lower unit. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
Will work fine, I'm using it in the approximately same setup. Make sure though that your house is properly sealed while if you have dry winter air seeping in at all times don't expect to have high humidity inside no matter what device you use. People are not aware how much air exchange (inside/outside) happens if you have "leaky" house.so you can put as much humidity in and it will be drawn back out before you can think twice.
It works wonderfully in a 2400 sq ft, 2 story home. however, the heating element has gone bad in mine, after only 2 years. Sent from Windows Mail
fourth light from the top flashes red continuously = Service light unit needs attention (how serious is to be determined)! the top light is permanently green = Power connected the bottom one permanently orange = Cleaning required Your unit is most likely full of calcium deposits and requires draining and proper cleaning (decalcifying) as a first step. Depending on how long ago you did this and how "hard" your water is this might be very easy or very complicated (your heating element might be beyond salvation worst case scenario). Also have you installed RO or inline filter, that might require changing I would recommend professional help if you are not sure what to do on your own! Here is the link to the manual, read it and familiarize yourself with the operation and the steps required for maintenance of the unit. https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/6 9-2286EF.pdf
The top light means it has power, the bottom orange one means it needs cleaning. I don't recal what the fourth one flashing red means, probably something to do with the cleaning light on. Check your manual for a full explanation as well as how to clean the unit. Hope this helps.
The top light being solid green is a good thing...so no worries there. The 4th light blinking is a trouble/fault indicator. Per page 9 of the owners manual: "Call for Service LED is blinking --- TrueSTEAM has detected one of 15 system faults. • Press Reset button. • If fault persists, turn off power supply to the humidifier, and turn back on. • If fault persists, call a professional HVAC contractor As for the bottom light, well, it should be blinking if the tank needs to be manually cleaned. Perhaps reseting or removing and restoring power will fix that problem. Good luck,
I would install one per furnace.
If you want one on each unit, than two 6 gallons should be more than enough. Honeywell recommends the 6 gallon for up to 2000 feet, 9 gallon for up to 2500 feet and 12 gallon for up to 3000 feet. This assumes a tight house. I have a 6 gallon on a 2 ton heat pump servicing 2000 feet and a 9 gallon on a 3 ton heat pump servicing 2500 feet. I have a tight house and I'm not having a problems keeping the humidity at my target.
My 9 gallon works fine for my 2400 square foot house. I guess you could put 2 6 gallon units in. Sent from my iPhone
Gerry, Two of the 9 - gallon units one for each furnace would be adequate for your home. Please note! Use a humidistat control and follow the manufacturer instructions.
Honeywell has great information Ok their website to help size the humidifier. There are variables to consider not just square footage.
It is based mainly on the size and construction of your home. You may want to try our TrueSTEAM Calculator (see link below). http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control/TrueSTEAMCalculator
The size of the humidifier you need to purchase depends on the amount of space you have. If you are installing the humidifier into duct work as a whole house application, you should purchase an 8 gallon or lager model. A 6 gallon humidifier will treat a large room, while a 12 gallon humidifier will give better performance when treating a large area or whole house.
Use the Honeywell sizing guide and always upsize if in doubt or on the bubble.
According to the manufacturer, you will need to use the VisionPRO IAQ and Installer Setup #374 to have the option of humidifying “only when the heat is on” or having the “call for humidity bring the fan on.” The manual humidistat will not have these options.
My blower comes on when when humidity is needed. Furnace does not need to be heating. I use the H8908 manual stat. FOR TrueSTEAM Fan Enforcement: • Break the G connection between the thermostat G and the HVAC system G — HVAC system G goes to TrueSTEA M Gf terminal.
You can wire the unit to call for the fan, when it calls for humidity it will provide 24v to the green wire on your furnace. You will need to read the manual and set the dipp switches correctly and the green wire from your thermostat will run to the humidifier and then from the humidifier out to the furnace fan, This is how my unit is configured and it works great.
The manufacturer recommends that you place the humidistat on the living area wall, as this will be the easiest location for you to operate and adjust the humidistat.
I mounted the humidistat next to the thermostat using two unused wires in the original bundle. I like having the temperature control and humidity control side by side. I will replace them both eventually by a single programmable control so the wiring is ready. Otherwise, the most convenient location is on the return air ductwork, just upstream of the humidifier. In this position, it will sense the average blended air returning from the home and control the humidifier on this basis. I didn't have that option on my furnace anyways. You don't want to put it on the hot air plenum as the humidity level selected will be wrong. Hot air is always dryer than once it cools down and the humidistat might be out of calibrated range at high temperature. I hope this helps. Good luck.
I want comfort in the room. I don't live in the ductwork. I don't want a ductwork reading. I want a room reading with room control so I prefer wall mount away from HVAC system. Either should work but readings will vary depending upon location.
The best spot is next to the thermostat. You do not want to install it on the hot air plenum. You can install it on the cold air or return air plenum. Good Luck JoeHVACman
Please refer to pages 6 and 7 of the operating manual for information on how to clean the tank. http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1295365587592/44240_PROD_FILE.pdf
Please refer to pages 15 and 16 of the linked installation manual for details on positioning and wiring the humidistat. http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1293024472846/42540_PROD_FILE.pdf