
| Length (Feet): | 8' |
|---|---|
| Application: | Heating |
| Height (Inches): | 7" |
| Depth (Inches): | 2-5/8" |
| BTU Output: | 580 |
| Color: | Nu-White enamel |
| Finish: | Nu-White enamel |
| Model: | Fine/Line 15 |
| Package Type: | Includes Heating Element |
The Fineline 15 series is discontinued and no longer available. The 30 series has a slightly higher BTU output per foot. Either can be painted, Slantfin suggests Rustoleum spray paint specifically.
Slant/Fin baseboards are currently only available in nu-white, but they can be spray painted.
yes they come in white I have ice white subway tiles and the color is almost the same
It depends on the BTU requirement of your house and the water temperatures you're running. See the link below for per-foot output ratings of this baseboard. http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1253196590775/17627_PROD_FILE.pdf
This should not be a problem, but you also have the option of installing a unit with a 1" element. Slant/Fin's Multi/Pak 80 series has this option.
Yes it is OK. We have 1" from the boiler to new 3/4 baseboard and then going into existing rads that are 1". Need to careful to bleed the air out of all of them as it can get stuck. Pamm
yes--It's fine. On a huge installation it might matter, but not on residential small jobs. The pressure differential will be minimal. Sent from my iPad
It will reduce the flow in the rest of the run more than an additional 16' of 1" radiator would, but will still work. If the flow was anywhere near marginal before, you might want to put a 1" bypass with a valve (actually, just add a valve to but leave in place the original 1" pipe between the exit to the new section and it's return. With the valve closed, you have what your contractor is suggesting. With the valve open, you have you old system without significant flow in the new section. You can partially close the valve to choose how much flow to divert to the new section, and the rest flows in just your old system as before. Be sure to use a full-port ball valve or full-port gate valve, so when it's open you have the full normal bore of the 1" piping. Joe
It depends on several things. How many BTU/hour you design to deliver and at what boiler water temperature (the boiler must be up to it). For instance the 3/4" element Fine/Line 15 baseboards deliver 550 BTU/hour per foot at 180F water flowing at 1GPM or 580 BTU/hour at 180F water flowing at 4GPM, according to their catalog sheet on the Fine/Line 15 series (see http://www.slantfin.com/images/stories/Product-Literature/catalogsheet_fineline15_15_10.pdf or http://www.slantfin.com/index.php/products/baseboard-residential/fine--line-15). How many BTU/hour you'll want in turn depends on the outside wall insulation value and wall area of your house (adjusted for windows), and the increase in inside temperature over the outside temperature you want to sustain. But as a rough guide, I've found that somewhere between half and all of the outside walls (less doors, of course) is where the numbers fall for a good comfortable installation. Outside walls are definitely the preferable location for the baseboards, so their heat goes directly to warming the coldest surfaces - which makes for much better comfort than heating anything other than the coldest wall surfaces. Extra is nice in bathrooms, but usually hard to find space for, and the kitchen will need less, it has it's own heat sources. Don't overdo separating zones, it's not needed. Three max, for living/sleeping/bath areas, but combining sleeping & bath works well too, or even just all in one loop with no separate zones. If at all possible, make (each) loop one single run, avoiding plumbing baseboards in parallel with the accompanying need to balance the flow in the two paths. You'll like the heat, way nicer than forced air.
You will either need to use a combination of units (perhaps incorporating splice plates and end caps), or use a longer unit and cut it down to size.
We would recommend the rust-proof DIY Baseboard Heater Covers ( http://www.pexsupply.com/Baseboard-Heater-Covers-1517000 ). These include a lifetime warranty that guarantees the covers will not rust.
The rust can come from urine. I am not sure about their protective enamel finish.
You can under most circumstances.
The element is made of Type M copper.
Please view page 9 of the following manual: http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1253196590775/17625_PROD_FILE.pdf