| Application: | Flow Control |
|---|---|
| Size: | 1-1/4" |
| Connection Type: | FNPT x FNPT |
| Material: | Iron |
| Body Pattern: | Straight-Angle |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 125 |
| Position: | Vertical |
| Temperature Range (F): | 250°F Max |
The plug must be purchased separately.
They are installed as is. B&G calls it a flo control valve but it is a check valve. Be careful to install in the proper direction, there are arrows on the casting to show this. The adjustment indicator knob on the top is used by turning out,counter clockwise when you want the system to gravity feed. This can be used temporarily if the circulator pump does not work. hope this helps.
Turned closed allows flow when pump in running. Turned open flow is by gravity.
Turned closed allows flow when pump in running. Turned open flow is by gravity.
tighten the valve with pliers and It should stop leaking. If not, replace. I have brand new ones installed and they leak if the valve isn't fully closed
try tighten the nut on top about 1/8 turn clockwise
Simon: Be greatfull for the warning, replace the valve. John C.
Mine has begun to leak there as well. The real problem is if the leak causes the water pressure to drop low enough to flash the water to steam at the highest point. The packing nut is leaking, I have not looked for a repair kit yet. The repair kit should be less than $5 ad this is a lot better than 50 for a new one.
Flow Controls are meant to stop backwards flow through system when system is not calling. Zone Control valves do the same thing, usually used with multiple pumps. I cannot speak for your particular system setup as I do not have the needed information, and I find it interesting you are replacing zone valves and circulating pump all together without explanation. I assume you are a DIY, but I have concerns other than your question listed, here is why.a properly installed waterside system, we do not see need to replace pumps and zone valves-at the same time, or often for that matter. I haven't even been given the information of what zone valves and pump you are looking to buy. I do have a resource for you, heatinghelp.com. Granted, you will probably get the same questions I asked, and more importantly, is this a DIY job will be broached. But they also have a wonderful library of books for purchase if you want to learn. I have a few favorites, but like I said, not enough information to guide you.but they will tell you how to avoid the
Joe, I am not a professional heating contractor but I think I have your answer. I think if you have 2 zone valves and 1 circulator, flow control valves are not necessary. The flow control valves stop flow in one zone when the other has flow. In your arrangement the zone valve stops flow in the other zone. You are correct that if you have 2 or more circulator pumps you need flow control valves to stop one pump from pushing (or pulling depending on the piping arrangement) water through the other zones. This can stop overheating of some zones. Hope this helps.
Joe: I think that: if it ain't broke , don't fixit. might apply. If you are happy with the system as is why change it. If your boiler has the capacity to supply btu's and the pump can deliver them to both zones at the same time fast enough to suit you, what else is there? If only one zone is calling for heat the valve is shut on the other zone so the rate of warming would be limited by the radiators in the zone. looks like you have it covered. Good Luck, John C.
If the pump you are buying has a integrated check valve then you are all set
Install flow control valves.
no flo conrol required if using one pump
I recieved this question with regard to a weighted check valve. The weighted check valve is used to prevent circulation due to heat convection, in my case, for a thermal storage tank. More direct to the question, there should be one check valve between your pressure tank and the rest of your system to prevent backflow and it does not need to be the more expensive weighted check valve, but I am sure it would work fine if you want to use one anyway. Frank.
You should have a pump per zone, but since you do not, I don't think it matters if you do not prevent back-flow in one of the two zones
Yes, part 107034 is the current model number for the obsolete 107022.
That will be based on system design.
As long as you take the pressure off of the zone there is nothing wrong with taking the stuck valve apart to clean it and attempt any needed repairs.
The units will work up to a 50% mixed glycol solution.
This unit should be placed on the discharge side of the circulator.
This unit is not a positive shut-off valve.