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Solenoid Valve For TrueSTEAM
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MANUALS (1)
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Description
This valve contains two solenoid valves. Both valves operate on 120 vac and can be tested by unplugging it from the humidifier and connecting power from an external 120v source.
One solenoid controls filling the water tank. This valve is normally closed when no power is present. The inlet for this valve has a SpeedFit push-in fitting. The plastic water line just needs to be pushed in to this line.
The second solenoid controls draining tank. This valve is normally closed when no power is applied. This valve also connects to the tank overflow hose that always provides an open path to the drain.
Specs
| Product Type: | Miscellaneous |
|---|---|
| Application: | Air Quality |
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Easy to Replace and It Works Well
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Didn't end up needing it . . .
Fixed my humidifier
i would buy this product again
Fixed the issue
Works perfectly
On time and works great
Honeywell TrueSTEAM repair parts STILL AVAILABLE
Another excelent purchase from Pex - now SupplyHouse!
The product worked fine.
I will definitely do business again!
Excellent service, product worked well
Product Q&A
1 QuestionQ: How can you tell if the solenoid valve for TrueSTEAM by Honeywell is bad? This is a new humidifier.
Asked by Anonymous 14 years ago
Add your answer
I don't know. I was having problems with my unit after a year and the manual suggested replacing the solenoid, so I tried that, but that didn't work either. Ultimately, it turned out that my water was harder than I thought and so I needed to install a filter.
A few of the fault conditions are associated with a bad solenoid valve. When you press the reset button, a fault condition is indicated by blinking red light. The number of blinks tells you the fault. There is a table in the installation guide. This is how I knew the solenoid valve was bad. ~~~~~~~~~~~ Steve Breckler
Mine went bad 4 years after installation. It would continue to fill non stop and drain at the same time. Most likely a mineral deposit got stuck on the drain solenoid and it couldn't close properly.
The solenoid assembly either opens on the fill side to fill the tank, or opens on the drain side to drain the tank. Either the tank won't fill, won't stop filling, won't drain or won't stop draining. Not sure if you will be able to tell if it's a controller issue or a solenoid issue. My solenoid started failing after 2 years with a slow continuous leak through the drain line. The scale from the water tank blocked the seal on the drain side of the solenoid.
In my case, the hot water tank of the humidifier failed to drain after either (1) pressing the "Drain" button or (2) unplugging the unit. The water would cool down (i.e heater would disengage) but I had to remove the full tank and drain (make sure water cools down before you do this!!!). After I reinstalled the tank (cleaning and replacing water level sensors) the tank would fail to fill with water and humidifier would blink a malfunction. Water source to the humidifier was verified to be open and flowing. After replacing the solenoid problem was solved. The water source to my house is heavy in minerals. I usually replace the filter, water level sensor, and solenoid once a year due to heavy deposits.
I went through the troubleshooting guide and based on the # of flashing red lights it led me there. On my truesteam (4 years of owning) the most prevalent issue will be that water isn't making into the unit. Whether it be a clog in the water line or after a full season the filter won't let the right amt of water through it will start throwing error. Maybe check to make sure water is making it into the unit? Hope that helps!
If you hear the relay click for the solenoid but do not see water following you should replace it. If you do not hear the click of the relay the unit is bad. I have one unit go bad after first year. After season is finished clean and unplug unit.
In the case of my bad solenoid valves, they would not open to let water into the TrueSteam unit. However, after adding the Honeywell reverse osmosis unit over the summer, I have had zero issue with my solenoid valve this winter. I live in central North Carolina and a water hardness test strip showed my city water to be on the hard end of the spectrum.
The most common failure I have seen is when the solenoid fails to shut off. This can even happen on a brand new unit. The tank will fill, then water will overflow through the drain line. Marginal solenoids will be able to shut off with a lower feed pressure, but this may only be a temporary solution. I plan on putting in a new one each year. This frequency will probably reduce when using the RO unit.
Sure, I purchased the Honeywell a couple of years ago from Pex and had it installed by a local Hvac company. It worked fine for a few months then the yellow light that says it needed to be cleaned manually came on. I cleaned it and reset it but the light came right back on. I cleaned it again and same thing. When I pressed the "empty" button it would not empty. I phoned Honeywell and explained the situation and they refused to send me the new part unless I had an Hvac installer verify that that part was the problem. It would have cost a lot more to bring in the Hvac person than to simply buy and replace the part from Pex. I told Honeywell what I thought of their lack of support and purchased the part from Pex. When it arrived I installed it and VOILA the Tru-Steam has been working fine since. So the key is that if the unit is clean and the manual cleaning light keeps coming on and if the unit will not empty then the solenoid valve is not working right. Lyle Kerr