| Length (Feet): | 20' |
|---|---|
| Fitting System Compatibility: | PEX Press Push Fit PEX Compression Clamp Crimp Expansion PEX |
| Size: | 1/2" |
| Color: | Red |
| Tubing Type: | Non-Oxygen Barrier |
| Material: | PEX |
| Application: | Plumbing |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 160 |
| Grade: | PEX-a |
| Warranty: | 25 Year |
| Standards Met: | ASTM F877 DIN4726 NSF |
| Max Temp (F): | 200°F |
It is pre-packed in cardboard boxes so it is never exposed to sunlight!
It is best to not expose pex to uv light either direct or indirect. Pex, like most other plastics, is photodegradable meaning that it begins to decompose in sunlight. While I doubt you would experience problems with limited/nominal exposure, it is a better safe than sorry situation.
No do not expose it to direct sunlight
You can connect PEX directly to an electric water heater, as long as local code permits it. With a gas or oil unit, you should keep PEX at least 18" away from the flue.
Use a PEX adapter fitting, such as Pexsupply SKU: H027550 or SKU: H030750, chosen to fit the pipe on the heater and the style of PEX connection you have chosen to use. By the time you've added a cutoff ball valve in each of the hot & cold lines, you're plenty far enough from the heater to attach the PEX. Remember PEX is certified to handle hot water.
I used normal copper connections to the hot water tank to about 6 inches above the tank and then used a Shark bite(Press Fit Connection..Pex supply has) to connect the copper to the Pex. This will make changes very easy in the future and the shark bite allows the copper to spin in it in case of a leak.
Connecting to hot water heater depends on whether you are retrofitting or doing new construction. If retrofitting, you can disconnect the existing piping anywhere you like, and use an appropriate adapter to switch from metal to pex. On mine, there were flexible copper tubes about 18" long on the inlet and outlet. I left those on, added a brass ball valve at the end of the outlet, then an adapter into the pex. I believe I had read that the pex should be about 18" away from the hot water heater, but you can check that in the online literature. The hot and cold pex are the same, although it is elegant to use red color for hot and blue for cold. Jim
You will want to use a dielectric nipple to come off the water heater, then you can thread a shutoff valve, and connect a pro-pex fitting to it and connect the aquapex to that. The pex can get hotter than the hot water in the water heater so it can be placed as close as you want. There are no requirements for the hot and cold lines. Wirsboro makes red and blue pipe for easy identification, but there is no difference other than color. P.S. I'd recommend running ¾" pipe to and from the water heater and pull ½" to feed your fixtures. John White Process Engineer
No!!! Sent from my iPhone
I've never seen 3" PEX. Seems that PVC or ABS would be a lot more cost effective. Check local code to determine appropriate DWV materials. Lloyd
You cannot use anything for waste that is not rated DWV (drain waste vent). You will not find any DWV that is flexible because it would be impossible to maintain proper minimum slope for drainage. The easiest and least expensive DWV to install is ABS (black plastic). However, check with your local code official to make sure it's allowed in your area. Some local codes exclude ABS. Best of luck with your renovation.
No you can not use it for waste pipe.
The easy answer is "NO" and then I would ask, why would you want to? Here is the information on 3" pex. Lots of info here. http://www.uponor-usa.com/Header/Service/For-Professionals/Products/3inch-uponor-aquapex-tubing.aspx Be sure what ever you use is approved by your local authority having jurisdiction.
No. ABS or cast iron
You want 4" for toilets, minimum. I don't care what the city code, experts ect say.
I don't know if the code allows it, but you would probably be better off using PVC. It would be easier to work with and less expensive. Sent from my iPhone
You could use it for this purpose but only technically. It, and all fittings, are designed for supply water use. I believe most code does not allow this use either. I assume you have a tricky bend not able to allow for traditional installs. I would turn to this pex tubing as a waste line only after all other methods are exhausted and there are no alternatives. Keeping in mind, this would likely be an illegal connection.
No Sent from my iPhone
AquaPEX is graded PEX-A, which is the only type of PEX tubing that works with expansion-type fittings. PEX-A still works with any other type of PEX fitting, however, including the crimp style.
Works fine with the more common crimp rings.
We used both types of connectors. So far, no leaks.
You can use either but only on aquapex. All of the installation methods are acceptable on pex tubing but the expansion method is only possible on pex "a" tubing made by aquapex.
you can use crimp rings. you can buy a good crimping tool from HD or lowes for $50.00 or thereabouts. i used crimp rings on all of my connections and after 2 years no leaks.
I like Uponor products, they are high quality and the tubing is more flexible than Sharkbite tube and others. While you can use crimp fittings you will not be taking advantage of the material properties that crosslinking affords---namely an incredible memory. When you use a crimp tubing over a fitting you run the risk that over time the material under the crimp will gradually migrate away from the site resulting in less sealing pressure at the fitting. When you expand Auquapex it will constantly want to go back to its original shape and thus constantly exerting sealing pressure at the fitting. I agree that even the hand operated tool is expensive but there are options. Ebay and second hand tool stores often will have these tools with the down economy tradesmen are cashing in. Usually you can find them under $200.
I would use crimp rings as I feel more confident in this type of installation than expansion. Check with the manufacturer to be certain.
Working with per is not difficult. However that is not to say just attempt it without working knowledge of plumbing. If yo can go for the ProPex. It is far superior. The device is costly, but there are ones for less you just have to look. I had the hand tool, and it was a lot of work to deal with. You can always buy it and have it for the future or sell it on ebay afterwards. Cost is about 190 bucks, worth every penny. Crimp rings are not as good as the expander fittings. Also the two are not totally interchangeable so pick one and stick with it. If you have no plumbing experience I advise against doing it yourself. You have to pressure test the whole system with air, not water, to make sure it can hold full pressure for a few days. If you fail to test the pressure, you may have some serious issues happen when you turn the water on. Also buy the plates that can be nailed into the wall to protect from nails and screws going throughout them when you put trim up. Plan your system out well. Balance pressures between areas. Simply because it is easy to work with doesn't mean every homeowner should. If you install in improperly you could have major flooding and system failure which insurance companies wouldn't like. Hope that helps
I think Aquapex is the best . Its worth buying the tool, or better yet higher a plumber that uses it. Bob
Crimp rings work great. Make sure you follow crimp tool guidelines, not too loose, not too tight. Don't kink the tubing. Sent from my iPhone
PEX is not rated or recommended for use with pressurized air.
Fellow Shopper, Each tubing has temp and pressure ratings. Check the manufacturers website and you'll know. Personally I would find a tubing that has a somewhat higher pressure rating than the actual pressure that you're going to use it at. Also check the ratings of the fittings. I have installed air lines for auto body shops using type L copper it works and has not had any problems. Good Luck, Pat D... www.waterpowerliving.com
Rick, This is water supply line and is meant for water use only. It is rated for 160 psi at room temperature and as the temperature rises the psi get lower. Most shops use steel or thick-walled pvc solid lines and air hose rated at much higher psi than aquapex.
Not sure about 150 psi but I have used air pressure to 110 to blow out water from the water lines in our vacation camp when winterizing/draining the system. I would imagine it will take 150 psi but can't say for certain. Hope this helps.
yes. 150 psi is ok unless its realyl hot air.
1/4" PEX tubing does not work with most standard fitting types. You'll need to use a compression-style connection.
You should use a 1/2x5/8 OD pex shut off valve and a beaded stainless steel dishwasher hose.
You can use 1/4 you will be able to find fittings at your local Lowes. Or you can run 1/2 pex and use a 1/2 by 1/4 adaptor to mate to your machine these fittings can also be found at Lowes. Hope this helps. Sent from my Motorola Smartphone on the Now Network from Sprint!
You are trying to "re-invent the wheel" using 1/4" pex to connect a dishwasher. For a start a dishwasher requires a 3/8" water supply to the solenoid valve! Just use this product available from Pex Supply! It's "Idiot-proof"! Quick Connect Dishwasher Kit - 48" Connector Quick Connect Dishwasher Kit - 48" Connector • SKU: B1-48DWS-D • Brand: Brasscraft In Stock! 3 Avail (Ship s in 24-48 Hrs) $12.10 / each
You could use a reducer to reduce it from 1/2 to 1/4.
I see that PexSupply has ¼" Aquapex, but when I look up products on the Wirsboro sight they list 3/8" as the smallest tubing they make. I've never heard of ¼" propex fittings or expanders before. You may try just bumping up to the 3/8" tubing to make things easier on yourself. John White Process Engineer | Pioneer Surgical
Greetings, First off I would recommend 1/2 or 3/8 size at least. Since the wall thickness of the PEX is greater than copper you need to step up one size for the same flow rate. As for connecting there are several quick release compression type fittings available that avoid having to buy a special tool and make it easily repairable if the need were to arise. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPod
Unfortunately there is no UV-resistant PEX tubing on the market today. We'd recommend that you cover the PEX, perhaps sleeving it in PVC. No PEX is freeze-proof, but AquaPEX tubing is rated PEX-A and offers good freeze-resistance.
Pex is not rated for applications where it is exposed to direct sunlight.
None. UV light will break down the plastic over time. Exposure to weather isn't the problem. You might try building a conduit and fishing your PEX piping through. Sent from my iPhone
With full exposure to UV light, I would use copper. PEX up to the exposed line then place copper in the exposed area. That is how I would do it.
None. You must protect the per from direct sunlight. The UV can break down the integrity of the pex. I put mine in conduit, schedule 40 direct burial up to the point of connections. I would laos advise to have a siphon type connector for freeze prevention if in a cold area.
I don't think I have ever seen pex tubing rated for above ground full exposure use. You need to do a search for tubing with that specification. You could run the pex in a black poly tubing to shield it from the UV.
None, most PEX piping is not maid for extended periods of time exposed to UV. I guess it depends on how long youwant it to last. The colors are more for designation of usage. U would need to cover it in some way. There might be something out there but not what your looking at. Look upthe manufacturer recomendations.
Uponor PEX tubing works with any PEX clamp fittings, including those made by Viega.
Yes, you can use crimp fitting with Uponor PEX but you can't use Uponor fittings with crimp rings.
yes, the two will work fine together... It's done 1,000 times a day with no issues. Only problem is in the event of a failure. Neither manufacturer will provide warranty coverage because of mixing the two brands. Personalized Plumbing & Heating
Yes Sent from my iPhone
I Believe the fitting will work. You will Void warranty be not using Uponor fittings. Hope this helps. Eric EZ Does iT!
I have asked a plumber that very question, and he said it does not work-- you have to use Uponor-style fittings (no clamping).
Hi, I can't speak of the Viega crimp connectors other than they should work. I have to ask if you have the crimp tool & clamps you'll need to do the job? The tool itself is around $450 so unless you have the tool or know someone who does, look at the Shark Bites. If you really want Viega, I see they have a "smart connect" fitting now that mimics the Shark Bites. I did my entire cabin with Aquapex & Shark Bites for less than the cost of the crimp tool! I have total confidence in the SB fittings. Good luck with your project.
White AquaPEX is more translucent. It's difficult to see much through both layers of the tube, but you can see your finger, for example, if you stick it inside.
There is no translucent pex pipe. The process makes it opaque.
translucent
I believe it would fall into the category of translucent. It allows some light through.
I would say translucent. You can see the water in the pex pipe.
It is translucent.
It's got a translucent quality, but you can't see through the wall at all...
Opaque Sent from my iPhone
it is more translucent... you will be able to see the water fill the tubing along with any air bubbles that pass through. Also, I will darken over time and can turn to a light brown or near orange color depending on the water quality. Personalized Plumbing & Heating
Yes if I was doing it over for my situation which is similar I would run the 1 inch pex by Wirsbo. Alan Hoyle Solid Fuel Technician Hoyle Services Alternative Heating