
| Size: | 3/4" |
|---|---|
| Pressure Range: | 25 to 75 psi |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 75 |
| Min Pressure (PSI): | 25 |
| Max Inlet Pressure: | 300 PSI |
| Temperature Range (F): | 33°F to 160°F |
| Connection Type: | Threaded |
I've had the best success with pipe dope.
I recommend Teflon tape.
Always use Teflon tape, 3 wraps around is enough Sent from my iPhone
Locate 567 is what I prefer, never a leak.. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
Sorry auto correct changed my answer.. Loctite 567. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
I only use Teflon tape and three wraps is plenty Sent from my iPhone
Everything you need is included.
Yes it should be supplied. Sometimes there isn't much grease on it and it can fall out in shipping. Good luck Sent from my iPhone
The maximum flow rate is approximately 30 gallons per minute when operating at the reduced pressure drop of 25 PSI.
Yes, this line of Pressure Reducing Valves can be installed in the vertical position.
The instruction manual states "To adjust pressure setting, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase pressure, counterclockwise to decrease pressure." The manual can be found here on our site : http://s3.pexsupply.com/product_files/es-lf25aub-inst.pdf
Yes. This Model would work fine. 95psi is well within the range of a single prv. Watts offers a great diagram in their product manual to describe the parallel and in series concept. I wouldn't worry about installing a backflow preventer unless required by code. The PRV will essentially create a closed system so you need to consider a thermal expansion tank for your water heater. A great resource is Water Heater Rescue. -Rob
Not sure about the u5b-z3, or the 25aub-z3, but I'd guess the u5b since it's made for commercial applications. But neither have a 3" inlet/outlet pressure. Both max out at 2". The thermal bypass function is to compensate for water heater caused pressure on the outlet side. Since water heaters increase the pressure of the water (by heating it), that water pressure can push back on the outlet side of the pressure valve, which can increase to the point of causing knocking in pipes, or bad bursts of pressure when you turn on cold water. In your case, it shouldn't be an issue, since this issue is, as far as I know, only going to be seen when the valve is used on cold water supply, or if the water was going to be heated further on the outlet side of the valve. From their standards section (https://www.wattspremier.com/products.php?product=Watts-107001-U5B%252dZ3-Whole-House-Water-Pressure-Regulator): standard Specifications: A Water Pressure Reducing Valve with integral strainer shall be installed in the water service pipe near its entrance to the building where supply main pressure exceeds 60psi (413 kPa) to reduce it to 50psi (345 kPa) or lower. The valve shall feature a bronze body suitable for water supply pressures up to 300psi (20.7 bar). Provision shall be made to permit the bypass flow of water back through the valve into the main when pressures, due to thermal expansion on the outlet side of the valve, exceed the pressure in the main supply. Water Pressure Reducing Valve with built-in bypass check valves will be acceptable. Approved valve shall be listed to ASSE 1003 and IAPMO and certified to CSA B356. Valve shall be a Watts Regulator Company Series U5B-Z3. Good luck!
The air pressure in an expansion tank must match the pressure of the system. Most expansion tanks are pre-charged to 12psi. They must be sized by the BTU load of the system. You may find our Expansion Tank Calculator (see link below) to be useful. http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control/ExpansionTankSizeCalculator?intcmp=calc;extrol-rc
You would need part WP4-12.
Please refer to page 2 of the following specifications for dimensional information: http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1305216392729/56103_PROD_FILE.pdf