| Size: | 5/8" |
|---|---|
| PEX Size: | 5/8" |
| Material: | Brass |
| Application: | Heating |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 200 |
| Warranty: | 25 Year |
| Standards Met: | NSF |
| Fitting System Compatibility: | Push Fit |
| Tubing Compatibility: | CPVC OD Controlled Copper PEX |
| Max Temp (F): | 200°F |
Sharkbite is compatible with CPVC, however it is not compatible with standard PVC.
No, SharkBite fittings only work with PEX, copper, and CPVC pipe.
No it can't outside radius too big it will never seal properly Sent from my iPhone
Not the one you chose, they only work on pipe measure by outside diameter, like pex, cpvc, copper. They might make a sharbite fitting with a pipe thread on one end, sharkbite on the other.
No, but you can adapt the galv. Pipe (if it is threaded) with a shark-bite adapter. Whatever galv. Size to ¾ pex.
Fits Copper Tubing, and CTS CPVC and PEX and connects all three types in any combination Fittings certified to 200 PSI and 200°F (93°C).
There are other ways to do it, but the U009 fitting will let you connect 1/2" copper to 3/8" PEX.
Yes.
That should do it.
Yes.
Yes. The sharkbite fittings attach to both copper and pex.
yes this will work for that application.
Yes, this will work. Make sure both the pex end and copper end are burr free inside and out and cut square. I wouldn't use these except as a temporary fix. I don't trust these as permanenet solutions because I think the o ring seal inside will break down over time and leak. take care, Bob Bob Elam Photography Boonton, NJ 07005 http://www.bobelamphoto.com
That should do it
YES
Yes. Use the included inner sleeve for attaching to the pex, but discard the sleeve where attaching to the copper
3 inches should be plenty of room. Just make sure you slide it all the way in and then pull back on it to get it to seat properly. I have done this with a pex line coming out of the concrete floor with only about 1.5 inches sticking up and the shark bite has been holding pressure leak free. Hope this helps. Frank.
Yes you can
Unless there's a local code prohibiting connections with in three inches, I don't see why you can't. The coupling isn't that long. Maybe two inches in total length. Sent from my iPhone
yes
I believe the SharkBite couplings could handle the hot water temperature and would be suitable for this application, but you might want to check with the manufacturer what the temperature limit is, and figure out how hot the water could be right after it comes out of the hot water heater. The SharkBite fittings do work on copper pipe.
If I understand what is being asking. A sharkbite coupling can be used to re-connect the supply line to the HW heater, but the coupling itself will take up some length. In other words, if you were to cut a copper pipe and wanted to re-connect the two ends, you may have to remove a short section (about 1") of copper pipe off one of the ends to maintain the same overall length. You also need to have enough movement of one end away from the other to allow the insertion of the coupling (same as you would for a sweat coupling). Sharkbite makes a slip-coupling which allows you to connect two pipes that have up to a 2" gap between them without requiring the same movement as the standard coupling requires. Link here: http://www.pexsupply.com/Cash-Acme-U3016-3-4-Sharkbite-Slip-Coupling-11364000-p
I can see no reason why not. The shark bite fitting only needs about 1" of tubing to engage. However In our area there must be 18" of copper before changing over to pex if that is your intent.
Yes. Most certainly!
I would not put a coupling that close to my water heater because of the plastic inside the couplings. However I have a gas water heater that gets very hot on the top. If you have electric, high efficiency, LP, or something else, you might not have the same situation I do. However, there are hot water supply lines made by the “Skarkbite” people that I have used at my home and they are great. It is a stainless braided line, one end is threaded to fit the ¾” male nipple on your water heater, and the other has a sharkbite fitting that slips onto a ¾” pipe. While you are doing this work, I would also recommend putting a valve on each side of your hot water heater. I just changed mine out last weekend, and I just shut down both valves, drained the heater (using the pressure release valve to vent air into the tank), and pulled it right out. The new one went in in a few minutes, open the lines and you’re good to go. $20 in valves is worth all the work it saves and not having to shut down your whole house to change your water heater.
Greetings, That should be OK since you can use the SB fittings on the hot water side. My recommendation however would be to use the Shark Bite hot water connectors and add ball valves for shut-off. If this is for a cabin or place that may freeze you can get the "bleeder" type ball valves that will allow you to easily drain that leg of your water system. Good luck! Sent from my iPod
The 3/4" x 3/4" SharkBite coupling, part U016, measures 2-1/4" long.
End to end they are just over 2" long but you need to sink each piece of copper pipe or pex tubing a good 5/8" into the sharkbite fitting, so keep that in mind when fitting into tight spaces
Coupling is approx. 3" long, you will need to insert one end into to baseboard 1.0625" the other end also has a 1.0625 insertion length. Go to Sharkebite.com for additional info.
The exterior length of the coupling is 2.25" long from end to end. However, when the pipes are pushed together inside of the coupling, there would only be a 1" space remaining between the two pipe ends. So if you've got some wiggle room with the pipes and don't want to do sweating, it would probably work for you. Dave
I’ve never really worked on a baseboard heater so I’m not really familiar with your application. To answer your question, a ¾”x3/4” sharkbite coupling is about 2 3/8” long. When you say “butt-fitting” I think of an end cap, which they also make in sharkbite fittings. If you are just cutting off a section of leaking pipe and capping it off, I would recommend getting one of the sharkbite end caps, but I don’t know how long they are. Again, this may not be what a “butt-fitting” is, as I said, I have no experience working on baseboard heaters. Also depending on how hot this thing gets in that location you may want to see if the website has any information on temperature tolerances, there is a plastic piece in the fitting that I’m sure is not as heat-tolerant as straight copper pipe.
Qest pipe is polybutylene, which has diameters that are slightly different from those of PEX. We would recommend the SharkBite U4008 fitting, which is designed for a polybutylene connection on its gray-colored side.
The U016 fitting connects to 3/4" PEX and copper pipe. It will connect PEX to the baseboards without requiring any modifications, but it will not connect to the smaller side of each baseboard that is designed to fit inside of the element next to it.
Yes, you can use a SharkBite fitting. We would recommend wrapping it, as we would with any metal embedded fitting.
It is about 3/4" to 1".
The U004 coupling will work with 1/4" soft copper, but you will want to have a straight run of at least a few inches after the coupling.