Champion Tanks

Champion Tanks are pre-pressurized well tanks built by Amtrol to control how often a pump cycles on and off in a residential well water system. The CH Series pairs a deep drawn steel shell with a butyl diaphragm, a polypropylene liner, and a 304L stainless steel system connection, and Amtrol rates the line for 125 PSIG working pressure with a 38 PSIG factory precharge. Well contractors size these tanks to the pump's flow rate and household demand, since an undersized tank forces the pump to short-cycle and wears out the motor faster than a properly matched system. A tank that's too small also causes water pressure to swing sharply between cycles, which shows up at fixtures as inconsistent flow throughout the house. Correct sizing extends pump life and stretches out the interval between service calls.

Subcategories

• Vertical Champion Well Tanks: Vertical Champion tanks stand upright on a base and suit mechanical rooms and basements where floor space is available but overhead clearance is limited. Amtrol builds the CH Series shell from deep drawn steel with a butyl diaphragm and polypropylene liner rated for 125 PSIG working pressure. Well contractors reach for a vertical model on new construction where the tank sits inside a dedicated utility closet.
• Horizontal Champion Well Tanks: Horizontal tanks lay on their side and fit crawl spaces, low-clearance basements, and other locations where a tall vertical tank cannot stand upright. Construction matches the vertical line, with the same deep drawn steel shell and butyl diaphragm design. Contractors working under a floor or in a low outbuilding often specify a horizontal Champion tank for exactly this reason.
• Champion Tank Replacement Parts: A worn diaphragm is the most common reason a Champion tank stops holding its factory precharge, and a replacement kit lets a well contractor restore the tank instead of swapping the whole unit. Keeping the tank precharged near Amtrol's rated 38 PSIG factory setting keeps the pump cycling on the intended schedule. Replacing a diaphragm on-site avoids draining and disconnecting the entire tank from the plumbing system.

Buying Guide

Sizing a Champion tank starts with the well pump's flow rate in gallons per minute, since the tank's drawdown capacity needs to match that flow closely enough to avoid short-cycling the pump on every draw. A tank that's undersized for the pump forces frequent on-off cycling, which is one of the most common causes of premature pump motor failure on a private well system. Available floor space and ceiling height in the mechanical room usually decide between a vertical or horizontal Champion Tanks configuration, since a tall vertical tank does not fit in every crawl space or low basement. Precharge pressure matters just as much as tank size: Amtrol ships CH Series tanks with a 38 PSIG factory precharge intended to match a specific pump cutoff setting, and a mismatch between the two forces the tank to work outside its efficient range from day one. Checking the tank's rated 125 PSIG working pressure against the well system's actual operating pressure protects against a diaphragm failure down the road, particularly on systems with a high-pressure pump setting. Local water chemistry plays a role too, since acidic well water can shorten the service life of internal components faster than neutral pH water. Contractors replacing an older captive-air tank should also confirm connection size and thread type match the existing plumbing, since a mismatched fitting adds unplanned labor to what should be a straightforward swap.

Frequently Asked Questions

What pressure should a Champion well tank be precharged to?

Amtrol ships Champion CH Series tanks with a factory precharge intended to sit slightly below the pump's cut-in pressure, set at 38 PSIG from the factory. Checking and adjusting precharge to match the specific pump's cutoff setting keeps the tank's air cushion working the way it was designed to. A precharge that drifts too far from the pump's settings causes short-cycling even on a correctly sized tank.

How do I know if a Champion tank needs a new diaphragm?

A tank that loses its air charge repeatedly, or one where water sputters at the tap right before the pump kicks on, is a common sign the diaphragm has failed. Tapping the tank shell and listening for a hollow sound above the waterline compared to a solid sound below it can help confirm the failure before a technician takes it apart. In many cases a diaphragm and air valve kit lets a well contractor rebuild the tank instead of replacing the entire unit.

Can a vertical Champion tank be replaced with a horizontal model?

Vertical and horizontal Champion tanks connect to the plumbing system the same way, so swapping orientations is possible as long as the mechanical room has the floor space or wall clearance the new orientation requires. Horizontal tanks need enough length along a wall or under a floor joist, while vertical tanks need enough headroom to stand upright. Confirming available space before ordering avoids a tank that will not physically fit once it arrives on site.

What causes a Champion well tank to fail early?

Repeated pressure swings from an undersized tank relative to the pump's flow rate put more stress on the diaphragm and shorten its service life. Aggressive or acidic well water can also degrade internal components faster than neutral water will. Running a tank well past its factory precharge without rechecking the air side is another common cause of an early diaphragm failure.

How is a Champion tank different from a standard captive air tank?

Champion tanks use a replaceable butyl diaphragm inside a deep drawn steel shell, which lets a contractor service the tank in the field instead of replacing the whole unit when the diaphragm eventually wears out. Some lower-cost captive air tanks use a sealed bladder or diaphragm that cannot be serviced separately from the shell. Choosing a serviceable design like the Champion line can lower long-term maintenance cost even though upfront price may be similar.