| BTU Output: | 5240 |
|---|---|
| Color: | Black |
| Height (Inches): | 3-7/8" |
| Application: | Hydronic Heating |
| Product Type: | Kickspace Heater |
| Type: | Hydronic Kickspace Heaters |
| Connection Size: | 1/2" |
| BTU (Max): | 5240 |
| BTU (Min): | 1480 |
| BTU: | 1480-5240 |
| Width (Inches): | 12-1/4" |
| Height: | 3-7/8" |
| Flow Rate: | 1-3GPM |
| Model: | K42 |
| Depth (Inches): | 12-3/4" |
| Water Connection: | 1/2" |
Hello, thanks for writing in. You can use this in your current two pipe system if you choose to. Please see page 4 of the submittal sheet for the piping charts/other information regarding this heater.
Hi Ann. Yes it should - the height of the grille is 4". Please see the exact dimensions on page 2 of the submittal sheet: https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Beacon-Morris-K42-Submittal-Sheet.pdf
Hi Travis! Yes, this can be vertically mounted on a wall using the W42 Recessed Cabinet Kit found on our website here: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Beacon-Morris-W42-W42-Recessed-Cabinet-Kit-9763000-p
Yes it has a hi off low switch along with a thermostat that doesn't turn the fan on until the coil heats up about 120 I believe
The ones I have have a 3-way switch; high-off-low. need to mount so the switch can be accessed. also there is a preset thermostat that controls fan running only with hot water,
This unit gets hard-wired by an electrician to an 115V circuit. There is not a 'plug' or 'outlet' involved.
This unit has no power cord and uses minimal amperage to run the fan motor. It is hard wired to any 110 VAC circuit. I would suggest using a GFCI circuit if unit is being used in a wet location.
This unit does not plug into an electrical outlet. The unit is hard wired and the junction is contained within the unit. You will need to run a wire from a nearby junction box. Current drain is very small.
Check the wiring diagram on the heater. It’s a small fan with little draw, less than a bathroom exhaust fan. I used 14/2 wire on mine and haven’t hd any issues.
A single gang will work fine. You can even run a new wire directly from another outlet if it's nearby. It's only to run a small fan in the unit, so it won't draw much power. Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S® 5 ACTIVE™, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
You can just use a 14-2 wire Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S® 5 ACTIVE™, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
This unit is meant to be hard wired. You can wire any type of 110VAC plug you like so long as it matches your receptacle. Sent from my Kyocera DuraForce, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
Sure, you can i would just check to see if there is some local building code that say you can't.
Once you buy it, it's yours and you can do what you want with it. Attach any type of plug you like. The reason it is normally hardwired is due to access and the unit isn't something one changes out. Sort of like a disposal I guess. Many are wired with a plug but few are seldom, if ever, changed out.
I don’t see why not, provided you have adequate airflow.
I don't see any reason this unit can't be mounted any way one wishes, upside down, backward, or any other way one can think of. With that in mind, this unit is made to mount under a cabinet such as a kitchen sink where space is limited. You should be able to mount this unit vertically, just keep in mind that the fan is a long roll squirrel cage type so you will need to cut a vertical slot for the vent where the unit is to exit the cabinet that will be the same dimensions as the unit.
No reason it cannot be mounted vertically; it has four mounting points and as long as the water lines are purged of air and the inlet is not blocked you should be able to mount it in just about any position.
Yes, it will . unit is 12 - 1/4 “ wide Roger Dicks Sr.
Yes, if the space is at least 14 and 1/2 inches wide, to accommodate the 90 degree sweat fittings.
The unit itself is only 12" wide, but the heat feeds in from the side. I would think that 18" would be enough room to run a flexible line. You may need to use a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the unit to reduce the bend in the line.
Wish I could, but installed it at a different location and don't e remember the dimensions of the space. I won't be there for awhile. Seems like they gave pretty specific instructions with the purchase. Replying because I do like the heater a lot.
Maybe. It will depend on the cabinet construction and how much clearance you have to get the plumbing and electric to fit as well. If you have good height under the cabinet I would say more than likely you will be able to get it to fit. A trick when I have installed these is make the bottom of the cabinet removable before you install the cabinet so you can get to the heater unit later. Hope this helps.
The heater dimensions (found in the specs) are 12-1/4" wide by 3-7/8" high by 12-3/4" deep, so unless there is something reducing the space under the cabinet it should fit with room to spare.
I installed the unit in-floor in a bathroom and didn't realize any reduced heat output nor am I aware of any reason it would occur. The only problem I had was the in-floor enclosure was made to exactly 14.5". Anyone that has worked around rough framing knows every 16" oc space is not exactly 14.5"- some a bit more some a bit less. I had to really persuade the unit into place. That was ~5 years ago so maybe they improved the enclosure and now it's more like 14".
The heat output in BTUs depends on the temperature and the flow rate of the water to the inlet of the unit. So if "outside corner "means a long distance from the heater hence lower temperature water then BTU output would be directionally lower. Sent from my iPhone
3/4 inch baseboard is uually 500 BTU per foot so 3 feet is 1500 BTU and the 42K is 4200 BTU so you'll have plenty of heat.
I replaced a 6’ run of baseboard heat with this unit in my kitchen…works great.
Your 3' of baseboard is probably rated for 1500-1800 BTU. The K42 will deliver about 4300 BTU with the fan on high, 3600 with the fan on low (no rating info given for case with fan off, but probably pretty minimal). (180 degree water temperature). Depending on your system design this may or may not be a problem; if the occupant is okay with turning the blower on/off then it should be fine. Alternatively a line voltage t-stat can be installed to control the blower. Note that head loss will be higher which may impact circulator performance.
The K 42 btu output is 1,480 to 5,240 while 3' of baseboard heater is around 1,290 to 1,770 btu depending on water temp and flow rate. Of course if you want to run the fan you will have to add an electrical connection..
The K 42 btu output is 1,480 to 5,240 while 3' of baseboard heater is around 1,290 to 1,770 btu depending on water temp and flow rate. Of course if you want to run the fan you will have to add an electrical connection..
I had a similar situation and replaced 3' of baseboard heat with the k42 kick space heater. The blower on the unit circulate the heat into the room quicker than the baseboard unit. I feel I get more heat from the k42 than I did from the 3' baseboard unit. I would recommend this as an adequate replacement. Glenn Dalton