K42 Twin-Flo III Kick Space Heater

I bought the smallest of the 3 units. The Good: Does the trick. On Low speed is quiet. Needed foot room in bath Rm and it is out of the way just like it needs to be. The Bad: On high it is loud. When installing you must connect electric and close elec access panel before drilling holes and bolting down unit (this is not mentioned in instructions). I have PEX and needed to solder Pex adaptors (no biggy but thought I would mention it). I foam insulated my bathroom and installed a [slightly] heated floor. If I still had fiberglass insulation I probably would not be able to run it on low speed. In that case I would have bought one of the larger units so I could run it on low speed.

1. I have installed and used a Twin-Flo kick space heater previously. This particular one must have been somebody's first day on the job? The copper was all completely oxidized where it had been soldered, and the solder was all around the joint. It doesn't leak, but it surprised me bc it doesn't look as good as the first one I got. 2. The knockouts for electrical were not cut through enough to "knock out"; I had to basically drill it out, which meant removing the hardware from position a few times. Including the internal hardware. End of the world? No. Frustrating? Yes. Time-consuming. Yes. 3. It's weird to me that they create the connection tubes to be the same length, but neither extends to near the edge of the copper U. So in certain installation situations (using the wall cabinet, for example), I was left to figure out how to extend it so that my hydronic piping would bypass the U from the highest tube. IDK if there's a way around it because you have multiple install scenarios but... 4. I also encountered an aquastat that the heat shrink was loose on. Literally slid right off. 5. It also did not fire up when it go to temp. I had to reposition it multiple times, and it leaves me to wonder if it's really just a faulty aquastat, since all of the repositioning didn't really change the contact surface area... Or is it the wiring? Dunno... Or somehow related to the switch? Again... Dunno... It's working at the moment. 6. Running the electrical cable from the bottom of the Kick-Flow did not leave a great deal of space between where the cable entered and the components of the Kick-Flow motor. It seemed like the knockout hole itself should be lower in the housing to avoid some of that. But it was also pretty challenging to get the nut on the cable clamp as a result. Again, not sure anything can be done about that bc it's used in a variety of ways.