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K42 Twin-Flo III Kick Space Heater
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Product Highlights
Description
Hot water from the home's boiler is circulated through the kickspace unit and the fan gently blows heated air into the room. The homeowner simply selects the fan speed, then the unit turns on and off automatically according to heating demand.
Twin-Flo III + kickspace heaters are your ideal solution wherever space is limited:
- Under Cabinets
- In Kitchens, Baths, and Foyers
- Under Stair Risers and Windows
Specs
| Color: | Black |
|---|---|
| BTU Output: | 5240 |
| Connection Size: | 1/2" |
| Type: | Hydronic Kickspace Heaters |
| Height (Inches): | 3-7/8" |
| Product Type: | Kickspace Heater |
| Application: | Hydronic Heating |
| BTU: | 1480-5240 |
| BTU (Min): | 1480 |
| BTU (Max): | 5240 |
| Width (Inches): | 12-1/4" |
| Height: | 3-7/8" |
| Flow Rate: | 1-3GPM |
| Model: | K42 |
| Depth (Inches): | 12-3/4" |
| Water Connection: | 1/2" |
Questions?
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6 Replacement Parts
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Product Reviews
Most Liked Positive Review
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The Good & Bad
Most Liked Negative Review
Quality Control
Quality Control
I would buy again
Kickin
Does what it's supposed to do
Great product and price.
Good purchase..
Works great!
Matched perfectly
Does the job fits right
Great Company to do Business With
Product Q&A
32 QuestionsQ: I have the K41A model and it appears that the blower stopped working. Is there a way I can have the motor replaced? If so who would be qualified to replace it? If I had to buy a new one I'm getting from older post that I'm suppose to replace it with the K42 model, is this still the case?
Asked by Empact 14 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffPart BMKR02020-001 is the replacement motor for K42 models, but these do not work on K41 units.
Its so easy to replace you could do it yourself.
Check the aquastat first. That senses the temperature and turns the fan on when it reads 120 degrees going thru the heater. Any decent HVAC tech will be able to troubleshoot this for you. Good luck.
Hello, I purchased a new K42 model with the wall enclosure which are still in the box. My addition design changed so it was not used. If you are interested I can offer it to you for a reasonable amount. It might be best to swap yours out. Let me know. Rob
Q: Can I install this in the middle of a 3/4 inch zone with baseboard elements before and after (a room before and a room after) it? If so How???
Asked by john 14 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffYou can. You may want to install diverter tees to make sure the unit gets enough flow.
Yes you can. You will install the K42 in parallel with your feed. In other words, both the in and out will be connected to the feed without removing any of the pipe. Tap into the 3/4 feed and solder in (or pex in) 2 – 3/4” flow director T fittings with 1/2 going to the K42 Remember you are catching water into the unit and returning it in the direction of the flow This will allow some of the hot water to be diverted into the K42, through the unit and back into the feed while the rest of it travels to the next room. What you don’t want to do is send the entire flow of hot water into the heater.
Generally, you want to install different types of heating devices on different zones, because they respond differently. Mine is installed in parallel with baseboard convectors and radiators. The convectors and radiators are individually controlled by automatic temperature control valves. I have not control valve on the kickspace heater, but my entire system is on an outdoor temperature reset which lowers the circulating water temperature as the outside air temperature rises. When the circulating water temperature is below 140, the kickspace heater fan does not come on.
In order to do this you need venturi type fittings that will cause resistance in the main 3/4 line that will cause some of the fluid to flow into the heater through the tee with a half inch leg while the rest continues on down the line. The fluid flowing through the heater will rejoin the main 3/4 line after the heater through another tee. You should read more about venturi tees and their function with a web search.
It could be connected as a branch with a diverted tee I believe. Sent from my iPhone
Q: Do you need a tempering valve between this and a 3/4" system?
Asked by julia 14 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffYou would not need a tempering valve unless you want the kick space heater to operate at a different temperature from the rest of the system.
No, tempering valves are only required for devices requiring water temps. less than what your furnace is producing. This device is designed to handle the max. water temps. of a typical baseboard hot water system- ~180-190 F. You will likely require monoflow tees (at least 1) to successfully divert water flow to this device (assuming it is being placed within a series heating loop).
No tempering valve required if connecting to a hot water boiler with base board convecters.
Depends on your setup. You will need to limit water temp thru the pex and moderate heating when heating demand is satisfied. My kickspace heater fan comes on when the heating water temperature exceeds 140F. I let it run wild (no tempering valves). However, my system is on an outdoor air temperature reset which reduces circulating water temp as outside air gets warmer. In our mild climate, I usually circulate warm (80 -120F) water. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
No, the hotter the water the more the heat output
I usually just create a 1/2" branch diverting half the flow thru the heater using 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 monoflo tees
I did not need one. Works great.
No you can connect it directly to your system.
Hi, you had emailed me directly, but I had no way of responding as this thread didn't show up at the time. You need the monoflow T(s) to correctly divert some flow to the kickspace heater but not all flow. A standard T will not work as well because more flow will go to the path of least resistance which is likely not the kickspace heater. If you place the unit directly in the 3/4" loop series (without a T) it is highly likely your series flow will be too reduced potentially causing issues throughout the heating loop.
Q: In an under floor mount situation, there appears to very little access to the control panel. Can the controls be remotely mounted for better access once the unit is installed?
Asked by Rob 14 years ago
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Yes, the controls can be remotely located with the 98F Module.
Yes, I have never done that, but it seems to be simply a matter of installing a DPDT switch in a wall box where it is accessible. Bob Sent from my iPad
Rob - they make a floor kit for the twin flo models. the kit # is FKM-2R. If the floor joist are 16 on center or larger I reccomend this kit. It makes everything accessible.
I have installed a number of these units and yes you can put the controls any where you want, just a bit of imagination. these are very simple to install. I hope this is helpful, R
No, you cannot move the control, but honestly I have left the control on low and have not needed to change it once as it is connected thermostat regulated....will not go on unless the pipe is hot.
I've never used the Twin-Flo in an under floor installation, only under cabinet or in wall.
As far as I know, this unit isn't made to "control" via remote controls. The unit is hard wired and has a bi-metal switch that turns the fan on to blow warm air out from under the counter when it detects a temperature rise from hot water flowing through it due to the furnace coming on when the thermostat tells the furnace to come on. Once the furnace shuts down and the water flowing through the unit cools down, the bi-metal switch opens and the fan stops. In other words, the unit sits under the counter and does nothing until the furnace comes on. Once the furnace comes on and sends hot water though the baseboard heating system to heat the house, the hot water flowing through the unit trips the fan switch turning the fan on to blow warm air out to heat the room (kitchen) without baseboard heaters due to cabinets taking up wall space. I suppose one could bypass the bi-metal switch and wire the unit to be run manually from a switch located somewhere in the room, but I'm not sure why one would do that unless one wanted air circulation for the room while the furnace is off. It sits there out of sight and out of mind until it stops working and the room never warms up. I hope this helps.
I don’t know why you would want to do this. I’m assuming either for maintenance or perhaps to access the speed switch. There is nothing I know of that would allow you to do this unless you are going to jury rig it yourself. With that said, I would not attempt to modify this unit. The only thing that can possibly fail on this unit is the fan and that can’t be relocated.
The controls on this unit are very simple. 3 options: Low, High, and Off. I am sure that with some electrical know how you could wire a special wall mounted switch to control this, but the manufacturer does not make any recommendations to do so. However, in my experience with the unit there is actually very little need to utilize controls. The unit only turns on if you are running your heat. It cycles on and off as the aquastat attached to the pipe within the unit senses hot water cycling through the pipe. I would think exterior controls would be more of a pain than it's worth. My unit stays on low setting year round, as I find the high setting a little loud and a bit much for my small bathroom. No need to ever turn it to off because if the heat is off it won't run and if the heat is on I want my bathroom warm. If your concern is simply controlling that specific room's temperature I would look into adding a line voltage type room thermostat. This will override the switch and shut the fan off once a maximum temperature is reached.
It is possible to move the switch of course with longer wires, but given that the unit is switched on and off by a thermoswitch that has to be placed on the inlet pipe to turn the fan on, I am not sure how much use one would get from a more conveniently placed switch. I found the thermoswitch set way to high (93 degrees) for use with a modern high efficiency modulating boiler that often do not heat the water up much beyond 90 degrees in milder temparateures. The thermo switch should be set at 70 or even lower for this unit to be optimally effective in my application.
Q: if the unit can heat,can you also use it to cool with cool water or glycal running thru it?.
Asked by cable guy 14 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffThis unit can only operate as a heater. The blower will not operate with the self-contained aquastat if water temperatures are below 140°F. The blower motor shuts off at 120° F and will not operate until water temperatures reach 140°F again.
No it can not
Q: Would the K42 be the most suitable replacement for a model K41A? What is the difference?
Asked by Mike 14 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffYes, the K42 is the replacement for older K41 units. While the units use different parts, there are no functional or output differences.
Q: Can I install this in the middle of a 3/4 inch zone with baseboard elements before and after (a room before and a room after) it?
Asked by Brandon 15 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffYes, this is a perfectly acceptable installation. If the kickspace heater is not in-line with the baseboards, you may need a diverter tee.
Q: the btu range is 1480-5280. how do I choose a unit say for a btu of 3000?
Asked by silver 15 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffThe precise BTU output depends on the water temperature and flow rate. See page 3 of the document below for more information. http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1249544798107/Beacon-Morris-Kickspace-Product-Info.pdf
Q: can i install that model on 3/4 line ?
Asked by DZ 15 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffYes, you can.
Q: Are the blower motors interchangeable on the K41 and The K42 models?
Asked by MR.Niceguy 15 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffNo, they are not.