| Height (Inches): | 3-7/8" |
|---|---|
| BTU Output: | 10360 |
| Type: | Hydronic Kickspace Heaters |
| Length (Inches): | 19-1/4" |
| Application: | Hydronic Heating |
| Color: | Black |
| Product Type: | Kickspace Heater |
| BTU (Max): | 10360 |
| BTU: | 3370-10360 |
| BTU (Min): | 3370 |
| Width (Inches): | 19-1/4" |
| Height: | 3-7/8" |
| Flow Rate: | 1-3GPM |
| Model: | K84 |
| Depth (Inches): | 12-3/4" |
| Water Connection: | 1/2" |
| Thread Size: | 1/2"IDFitting |
I didn't buy anything but ths in my purchase. You just solder the 1/2" copper line directly to the radiator in the unit just like any other radiator install. Hope this helps.
I would recommend buying the hose kit, then you can pull the unit out for cleaning. It also aids in the installation .
You don't need to buy the hose but it doesn't hurt depending on how you mount it. I used it so I could easily detach the kickspace if I space if I ever needed to. Otherwise if you sweat 1/2" copper all the way to the unit you have to cut the pipe to remove. I also like that is serves as another shock/vibration isolation ism.
Not necessarily. The hose kit is an optional item that allows you to make your connections using flexible hose as opposed to hard copper or PEX connections. Depending on your installation (how much room or access you have) the kit can make it easier to install the heater. My company has installed a fair number without the hose kit, but at least a couple would have been easier with it (if we'd known about it at the time). If the piping connections are difficult to access when the heater is in position, having flexible connections can allow you to connect to the piping first, then to the heater and then put the heater into place. Also, if the heater is accessible now but won't be later (it's being installed and a cabinet then installed over it) the hose kit can make any servicing required later a lot easier. If the unit is going into the toe kick of a cabinet and an access panel can be in the bottom of it large enough to expose everything, then the kit shouldn't be needed. But if the access can only expose the heater itself and not the piping, the hose is pretty handy. Ultimately, it really depends on the details of your installation. The unit will work with or without it and you have to decide whether your specific installation will be better one way or the other. One other thing, if you are tying this to an existing radiant circuit that uses diverter tees (sometimes called monoflo tees among other things) make sure you have a vent or purge fitting on the heater. If not, your heater may very well end up air-locked and won't circulate. If it's on its own pipe circuit or in a series circuit, that's probably not going to be a problem. Good luck!
I have installed a couple of these using copper fittings and tubing. A hose kit might be easier but either way will work.
Yes, the hose kit makes installation much easier. If you don't buy the hose kit you will have to shop elsewhere for the hose and fittings.
You don't always need that, it depends on your installation type. If you sweat both inlet and outlet to your main hot water loop directly with hard copper, you won't need it at all. However, if the hard copper connecting pipes you use are long straight runs, expansion/contraction might be an issue. The hose allows you some fexibility. You can buy the hose kit or buy the same fittings and some hose at a plumbing supply store or home center for a little less cost. I had some good high temp. hose so I bought the four hose-to-pipe fittings at Lowes, sweated them on and used hose clamps. That basically mimics the kit and works fine. Using hose allows a slightly easier removal if I ever have to replace it. The kit is probably not a bad way to go. You will see that you need a restrictor of some kind in the main loop to deflect some of the hot water from the main loop into the kick-space heater. I couldn't find the fitting they described so I used a ball valve that I keep half open and everything works fine. Good luck. Mine has been runing for two winters with no issues.
You can either buy the hose kit or pipe directly to the heater.
You do not have to buy the Hose Kit. I f you have the room to work and sweat the copper, you can run all the way. If you do not have the space to work, then I would recommend the Hose Kit. "Do I also need to buy Kick Space Heater Hose Kit when I buy K42 or K84?"
A K42 may be sufficient depending on the amount of heat coming from the dining room and your water temperatures, but a K84 would likely be the safer choice. Keep in mind also that kitchen appliances give off heat.
I'm not a professional, but I think that the 84 would be plenty, maybe too much. I was told that the 84 was like adding 30' of baseboard.
The replacement blower motor assembly is BMKR02020-002.
This would depend on the temperature of the water being fed to the unit.
The manufacturer recommends at least yearly cleaning with a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust or lint that has accumulated.
The temperature is measured by an aquastat and there is a low temperature aquastat available ( http://www.pexsupply.com/Beacon-Morris-BMKR02024-L01-Low-Temp-Aquastat-For-Kickspace-Heaters ).
I saw no adjustment on the thermostat and don't believe that it is adjustable. The fan will remain on even when the house thermostat turns off the zone circulator so that all of the available heat can be extracted from the unit. You might want to check the attachment of the heat sensor to the copper tubing though. I snugged up the squeeze clamp to connect more tightly to the tubing for a better read of pipe temperature. Too loose of a connection may prevent the fan from coming on as soon and as long as it should.
Please refer to page 2 of the manual below for detailed sizing information. http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1249544810331/Beacon-Morris-Kickspace-Installation.pdf
The DB level on max is 60-62. On min it is 49-53.
It is very quiet, not sure if you are a light sleeper or not, but i wouldn't have a problem with it, however my wife would. So it is hard to say. Think of the sound as a small table fan....about the same. Hope this helps.
low fan speed is fairly quiet --- I put 2 of them in a client's kitchen - barely noticeable ---- bedroom might be a different situation.
This unit has a 5-year warranty.
This heater should be powerful enough to meet your needs, but we do not recommend using it for plumbing.
High ceilings not a problem with a slow ceiling fan blowing upward to even out the heat. However, FIRST... replace the leaky windows and insulate the room!!! The heater will then do an awesome job. Otherwise, it would be like putting a screen door on a submarine. NO heater can compete with leaky windows and no insulation. I heat my den, bedroom, kitchen and bath with 1 k84 heater. It is an open cabin floorplan - no hallways, but does a tremendous job. I am well insulated. Good luck.