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1-1/2" Full Port Sweat Ball Valve (Lead Free)
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MANUALS (1)
Product Highlights
Description
Click Here for a suggested alternative for applications with hard water conditions.
- Brass ball valve (Full port) CXC
- Forged brass body 600WOG
- Steel handle with plastic cover
Specs
| Size: | 1-1/2" |
|---|---|
| Features: | Standard |
| Material: | Brass |
| WOG: | 600 |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 175 |
| Application: | Plumbing |
| Connection Type: | C x C |
| Connection Method: | Sweat |
| Valve Construction: | 2 piece |
| Handle Style: | Lever |
| Lead Free: | Yes |
| Port Type: | Full Port |
| Standards Met: | NSF 61 |
| Brass Alloy: | C46500 |
Questions?
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Product Reviews
Most Liked Positive Review
Good valve at a good price
Most Liked Negative Review
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just ok.
I would by again
Buy these all the time
I would buy this valve again
I'll reccomend it
Great item
I would buy this again
Ball Valves are the best for water shut off.
I would buy it again
Great deal for a brass valve !
Valves are a great value and function well
Product Q&A
10 QuestionsQ: what is country of orogin of Bulldog BVS 200 2"sweat ball valve
Asked by KEVIN 10 years ago
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Verified Reply- SupplyHouse StaffThis sweat ball valve is manufactured in China.
Q: How do I stop a drip leak from the valve stem?
Asked by fred 11 years ago
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Take off the handle and tighten the packing nut under it. If there is no packing nut, tighten the nut that holds the handle on because the handle acts as the packing nut
You probably can't. More than likely the valve was overheated during the sweating and the plastic bushing inside was melted. The valve should be installed in the open position and care should be taken not to overheat the valve.
Tighten the packing nut.
Q: Is this a 2 part valve meaning you can take it apart and solder to ensure no valve damage is done when soldering to protect the seats?
Asked by Kris 11 years ago
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Yes you can take them apart. It's a good thing too because they leak from the factory seal.
Q: Since this part (HV075SLF) is labeled as “Lead Free”, what is the maximum acceptable lead content in these valves? I'm looking for the actual percentage guaranteed by the manufacturer. And my second question: What is the Lead content for the part number HV075S ? **Just to clarify I'm not interested what the Law states, just what the manufacturer is willing to guarantee... Thank you.
Asked by Pawel 12 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffThis is lead free compliant with the new laws, which means it is less than .25% of the wetted surface area. A more specific figure is unavailable.
Q: I am installing a new boiler and looking to purchase 1 1/2" sweat ball valves. I have used the threaded ball valves in the past. Using the sweat valve do I need to take the valves apart? My fear is damaging the teflon inside the valve during the soldering process. Is there a chance of over heating the valve body while soldering? Is there a special soldering flux and solder used for the larger valves? Thanks
Asked by Dan 13 years ago
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I have never taken apart ball valves to solder and have never had a problem, however I have started taking off the handle and loosening the packing nut, and then retightening it after the valve cools. I use 50/50 solder on valves because it has a lower melting point.
I just did this actually, close the ball valve and use the solder paste flux (it comes in a tube it is flux with micro solder pieces in it, works really cool). Make sure your joints are really clean and scuffed, put your flame on the collar part only rotating around until you solder sucks in. When you have a nice bead around the rim stop and let it cool down completely before opening the ball. If you can the second side will go faster if you do it before the first side cools down. But don't open valve until both cooled down.
Hi, Full disclosure... I'm not a plumber, but have done a lot of soldering in various home and rental properties. If you're not careful you can damage the seal... I have! There is no way I know of to disassemble and reassemble. Follow these steps and you should be fine. Clean fittings well, use plenty of a tinned flux, make sure the valve is open so expanded gases can escape vesus blowing out the seals. Use a MAPP torch vs propane to heat quickly. Move torch around the valve body to distribute heat more evenly. Once you see a hint of green flame color near the joint, remove the flame and touch the solder to the far side of the joint. Good luck. Kevin
I had the same question when I started, did a bunch of research. The answer is no, you don't have to take the valve apart to sweat solder them. They are specifically made of materials to withstand the soldering process (just don't go way overheating them). I've lost count of how many I've done that way now, no problems with any of them. Also, I found a bunch of professionals that said always sweat with the valve in the open position, and an equal number of professionals that said always sweat with the valve in the closed position, and a few that said doesn't matter. My conclusion was to sweat with the valve closed to eliminate the small possibility that a solder run would cause a problem with closing the valve, though that would indicate using too much solder and was not in fact ever close to an issue in my experience. Doesn't matter how clean they look, always clean them (& the pipe/fitting to mate) with steel wool or one of the wire brushes made for the purpose, and use separate brush-on flux. Joe
You can over heat any valve, but they are made to be soldered with out taking them apart and you do not have to use special solder or flux. I have install many with no trouble. Thank You, Sky Feaster, Master Plumber A Pipe Surgeon, Inc
No Special materials. No disassembly. Use a map torch heat and sweat quick. Let solder solidify and cool valve body with damp rag. Chris
When you sweat a ball valve with Teflon there is a chance of overheating, I usually wrap the valve in a wet rag and keep the heat at a minimum. I now am a FAN of the Propress system. We have a large complex and because of the age we can't always shut off the water 100%. Thank You Propress
No need to take it apart, but don't overheat it. Test the surface with your solder as you're heating it and lit it flow. Alan
Q: Will this cement into a piece of 1 1/4 pvc pipe?
Asked by Rob 13 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffIt will not. This valve sweats to 1-1/4" copper.
use 1 1/4 ips [threaded] ball vavle with 1 1/4 male adapter
No. There is no cement for gluing PVC to brass. Probably the wrong pipe OD to fit also, but no point in going there. Use a FIP (female pipe thread) threaded ball valve and PVC MIP (male pipe thread) adapter if you want to use a brass ball valve. There are PVC ball valves available too, which will cement nicely directly onto PVC pipe. Joe
No it will not cement to pvc. This is ment to solder to copper pipe.
no you would have to use a 1 1/4 pvc male adapter and also an 1 1/4 threaded valve
absolutely not. Sweat means solder. This valve is for copper pipe only. If you need to put a valve in pvc, use a full union pvc ball valve which you can use pvc glue, not abs glue and not rubber cement... stop by a home depot with questions like this!
no designed for solder
No Sent from my iPhone
No.
A truly unconventional way to use those items - bonding PVC to brass. Use a copper X male adapter (WP4-20) and a female PVC to pipe adapter.
Q: Is this valve compatible with glycol systems using 50/50 mix @ 95C
Asked by R 13 years ago
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Verified Reply- Another PexSupply CustomerIt should be. Glycol is pretty friendly to the parts in this valve David
I use similar valves at near boiling temperatures with tap water.
I would expect it is, I have never known a valve to not be compatible with glycol. I would guess the soldering process is hotter to the seal than glycol temperatures can reach. I have serviced glycol solar systems for 30 years. Your customer can contact me directly.
Thats a mixed answer.... the short answer is yes..... However all systems that have gl in them will more that likely start to leak in places that would not leak in water only systems. Flush and clean the system before adding the glycol....proceed w/ caution. kpc
I have used these valves in my house, they are good enough for my purpose.They can be used for water, gases, and oils, this one is 1/2" in and 1/2" out and you need to solder (sweat) it in place. Its brass and good for 600psi.. This is probably good enough for your application, but you need to find out what is the constant temp rating of the valve. I would use a valve that can handle twice as much as I am putting thru it, and go with a threaded valve, if its for industrial application s, for ease of r&r, and s /s, just because it will take on more abuse and has higher operating specs. The best thing for you to do is to contact the valve manufacture and ask them for the valve spcs. The valve manufacturer along with your glycol producer should be the ONLY ones you should consult regarding what fluids and what type of valves/pumps etc, are compatible with each other. If this is an established business/ operation, why don't you just take the valve mfg # and serial # ( if theres one) and replace it with a propper replacement or an approved alternative? R.R.
Q: Can you use this type of valve in a baseboard hot water feeding application, or is that too much heat..?
Asked by D 14 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffThis valve can handle the heat in baseboard applications, but it is not recommended for steam.
Q: DO YOU MAKE A 1/2 INCH BALL VALVE READY FOR PEX PIPE AND RING WITH A BLEEDER FEATURE TO BACK DRAIN WATER? SAM RIO
Asked by 14 years ago
Add your answer
Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffWe do not. You would need to buy a ball valve with a drain and add PEX adapters to the ball valve.
Q: What does the WOG stand for?
Asked by 15 years ago
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Verified Reply- PexSupply StaffWOG is an abbreviation for water, oil, gas pressure rating. It represents the maximum allowed pressure under normal ambient temperature conditions.