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UP10-16BU/ATLC 1-1/4" Union, 115V Pump, w/ Check Valve, Line Cord, Aquastat, and Timer
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MANUALS (4)
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Product Highlights
Description
- Quick and easy installation
- Whisper quiet operation
- Unique wet rotor design
- Aquastat control ensures optimum operation
- Includes check valve to eliminate back flow
- Integral isolation valve for ease of installation
- Saves up to 12,000 gallons of water per year
- Flow Range: 0 to 3.5 U.S. GPM
- Head Range: 1 to 5 U.S. Feet
- Motor: 25W, Single Phase, 115V
- Minimum Fluid Temperature: 36 Degrees F (2 Deg. C)
- Max. Fluid Temperature: 203 Degrees F (95 Deg. C)
- Max. Working Pressure: 145 PSI
Standard Union connections available:
Union connections with Checks available:
Features
Specifications
Specs
| Includes: | 12 hr timer Check Valve Aquastat Line Cord |
|---|---|
| Connection Type: | Union |
| Connection Size: | 1-1/4" |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 145 |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-3 |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 3 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-5.4 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 5.4 |
| Temperature Range (F): | 36°F to 203°F |
| Phase: | 1 |
| Type: | Pump |
Questions?
3 Replacement Parts
Need help finding a replacement part?
Product Reviews
Works perfectly
Not bad for discontinued.
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Works as Advertised - Replacement
Hot Water Circ Pump works great!
Works Like a Champ
Don't forget the Unions!
super product
DHW recirc install
UP-10-16BU/ATLC Works Perfectly
Works well.
Product Q&A
7 QuestionsQ: What is the function of the F° dial on the pump and the green light by it. If I rotate the pump towards the thermometer with a line thru it what does that accomplish? Thanks much for the help.
Asked by Rup 2 years ago
Add your answer
Verified Reply- SupplyHouse StaffHello, thanks for writing in. The green LED being on indicates that the pump is on, and the dial is for selecting the temperature set point in degrees Fahrenheit.
Q: How can you tell the direction of flow for the pump?
Asked by Tim 11 years ago
Add your answer
It is forge-stamped with an arrow on the brass pump body
It's marked - pull off the back insulation. Also, blow in it. The check valve will dictate the flow direction.
Q: I installed this in my closed loop setup. My last hot water tap is within inches of where the hot water pipe turns back to the pump. I also have a tank-less hot water heater. The setup works great at all taps except for the last one before the loop. At this tap the water goes hot to cold to hot again. The only reason I can think of for this issue is that I did not allow a longer run of pipe after the last tap. Here is a sample of my system: taps __|_________|___________| |_________pump___ | water main__| | | | cold in heater
Asked by grindgarage 12 years ago
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Sorry. I can't help with your issue. My 'wild guess' is that it's some interaction between the circulator/loop and the tank-less water heater. And NOT an issue with pipe lengths. My installation is on a tank-type water heater. Good Luck.
FIXED, put in a check valve, unit works great and functions well with my tankless setup
Something doesn’t sound right. If the loop is up to temp, all the water in the loop should be the same temp. Do you have a check valve1 in line with the cold water makeup? It stops back flow to the cold water lines when the taps are open to cold water. As a test, turn on the pump and let the loop come up to temp. The water heater should come on and stay on until the loop is hot. If the hot water tank cycles a number of times before the loop is hot, you may have to play with the water heater thermostat “operating range”. Or ‘dead band’ as opposed to ‘setpoint’. Or it’s a sizing issue. Once it’s up to temp and the water heater is cycling normally, open up the last tap. Monitor the water temp entering the pump. (the return of the hot water loop) If it gets cold quickly you are back flowing through your pump from the cold water makeup. Also notice if the water heater satisfies when Tap3 has been running for a while. If it does, and the water temp is still fluctuating, depending on how your piping is physically laid out, you might need to add a check valve2 after the pump. (Preferably it should be before the pump) It allows flow from pump to water makeup line and back to the water heater but not from the cold water make up line, backwards through the pump. When the last tap is open, if the resistance to flow is less flowing back through the pump, rather than flowing in the normal direction through the house, it might explain the rapid temp fluctuation at the last tap. Keep in mind these pumps do not have a lot of head pressure so it may, or may not flow right if the check valve is installed after the pump. You will then be forced to put it in front of the pump if at all possible. I was thinking the water heater might not be sized right but you mentioned the last tap is the only one having issues. How I understand your piping to be: If not, this is how it should be. ;) Hope the formatting transfers on this awesome text drawing…. LOL (chkvlv1) Cold water make upà--- X ------à-------tankless hot water ------------à------Hot water loop -------à------------------------|
Q: My house is 2 story, w/4 1/2 baths plus kitchen located from one end to the other. Should I run a return line from each location and tie them into one return prior to electric water heater? Would this pump be strong enough for the system, if not what would you recommend? Thanks, Tim
Asked by Tim 12 years ago
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I can NOT directly answer your question. I use this circulator/pump for a single return line from our master bathroom. It's a two story house with the bathroom on the second floor and the circulator in the basement (about 40' lateral distance). My (non plumbing professional) answer is that combining multiple return lines into a single small circulator won't work correctly. This circulator is small and all of the flow will be from the loop of least resistance. Most loops won't see much flow. I don't have a better solution, but I'd ask a plumbing professional. PLUS, not all plumbing professionals understand hot water circulation systems. (based on personal experience....). I hope this helps.
Assuming this is a home under construction, normally one would route a main hot water supply line around the home so that it comes near each appliance. The end of this main line is then returned to the bottom of the WH with a small line. This pump should work well if plumbed in this way.
I have found that these pumps will work easily with up to 100 ft. of 1/2” return pipe. Broadly speaking, recirculation works as a loop. If you want to design a system with multiple branches, a manifold, flow control and more, you need professional expertise. Also note, that you need a union kit with this pump. Good luck.
Q: IS THIS PUMP WORKS FOR TWO STORY HOME
Asked by BOYAJIAN 13 years ago
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Yes, I am using it on a two story home. Pump is in the basement, the bathroom that it serves is on the second floor.
Hi, This pump has only a small headroom( less than 9 feet) . In addition, the quantity of water pumped up is decreases as the head ft. increases just like any pumps.( Look into the graph that shows the relation between Height( head) verses quantity of water that can be pumped up. This pump will not or capable of the job you want it for. I would suggest you look into a higher capacity and higher head pumps.( look at the graph showing this relationship of various pumps that Grundfos makes). Drundfoss makes high quality and reliability pumps and offer many choices for various applications. Nice company. Their application group should be able to help you. Good luck. Bob.n.
Q: does the return line use the drain on water heater or the cold water in
Asked by boots 14 years ago
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In my case, the connection is to the HWH drain.
In most circumstances, either the bottom drain port or the cold water in port on the tank should work. If you have a thermostatic mixing valve, then it's more complicated. My old recirculation pump returned to the bottom drain line. My new tank configuration (using the UP10-16BU) returns to my mixing valve, but it's really the cold water inlet... SO, without a mixing valve, either the drain or the cold water inlet should
You can use either style of piping for the return line. If the cold water line is used at the water heater, a check valve is needed to assure you do not push hot recirculated water into the rest of the house via the cold branch. We also always recommend lever handle, full port isolation valves on either side of the pump along with tees with hose bibbs for bleeding air out. When installing recirculating systems, don’t forget insulation on the system and also be sure to always use long sweep elbows for all the hot and return to prevent erosion of the piping system.
The return line goes to the water heater drain.
Cold water in. Drain is totally different loop and has nothing to do with recirculation.
Q: Does this pump include the unions, or are they a seperate item?
Asked by N8 14 years ago
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The pump does not include the unions. They are a special Grundfos part. Std. unions will not work with the pump.
No, the unions are separate. 1-1/4” refers to the outer nut...you can get inlet sizes of 1/2” or 3/4”.
Hi, I have to buy the Grundfos union flange separately that has to be soldered on to the ¾ inch copper pipe on the sweat side.. 1 ¼ inch side screws on to the pump. There is a washer insert that keeps it tight to prevent any water leakage. I bought the Grundfos union flange from another hardware store but later found out that PEX supply does carry it( I think it is under 20 dollars). Being not a plumber, I had to research out as I had a similar problem. If you want me research out the specific part let me know. Grundfos make the union flange. Bye now. bobNarasimhan.
no it does not have 1/2 of the union. Only 1/2 is attached.
Hi, This is what I used . It is a separate item. I could not find it under PEX supply. But others carry the item. It may be the reason that few people buy the pump from PEX supply. You need the pump and also the union sweat. Strongly suggest that PEX supply should also carry this item SKU529911. 3/4" Sweat Bronze Grundfos Pump Union Set GU125 <http://www.pexuniverse.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/grun dfos-union-set-metal-sweat-34.jpg> Description: 3/4" Sweat Grundfos Pump Metal Union Set, Grundfos 529911 Click on image to enlarge Description: Grundfos Description: Available For US Only Brand: SKU#: UPC#: Grundfos 529911 ***.****30 <http://www.pexuniverse.com/1-sweat-bronze-grundfos-pump-unions#write-review -form-expander> Write a Review No reviews yet
The pump connects via the 1-1/4" union fitting. You MUST purchase the mating union fittings. For example, I needed to interface with 1/2" sweat and purchased that union set, don't have the part number here. They also have union 'ends' for NPT interface. So I guess the answer to your question is NO. Sent from my iPad
No. The unions are not included.