| Product Type: | Replacement Head |
|---|---|
| Application: | Replacement Part |
| Used With: | V8043E Series |
| Position: | Normally Closed |
| Voltage: | 24V |
| Used with Valve: | Two-Way |
| Valve Action: | Spring Return to Close |
| Wiring: | 18" Leads |
| Max Ambient Temp (°F): | 125°F |
| Hertz: | 50 60 |
| Electrical Connection Location: | Manual Lever Side |
| Aux Switch Ratings: | 4.4 A running @ 120 V 50 VA pilot duty @ 24 V |
This is compatible with the Honeywell V8043E series.
If the valve is from 1986 or older the power head conversion kit is needed to use any of the newer actuators.
It has the motor.
V8043E valve has two pair of wires, yellow and red. Yellow pair is for the motor head. Red is for the switch to signal the position of the valve. Yellow pair should be controlled through a 24 VAC transformer and a thermostat. When the thermostat calls for heat, it should close the circuit and provide 24 VAC to the motor head in the valve and open the valve. When the valve swings to the open position, it should close the switch inside the motor head and thus close the circuit across the red lead wires, signalling the boiler to turn the burner on. Sounds like you have some wiring problems, perhaps broken wires. Disconnect the yellow leads and put a voltmeter across them. Do you get 24 VAC when the thermostat calls for heat, and 0 VAC when it does not? If not, there's a problem in the thermostat circuit. If your thermostat circuit is OK, then reconnect the yellow leads and disconnect the red leads. Operate the thermostat to call for heat. Does the motor head operate the valve to the open position? (If so, there should be slack in the manual valve opening lever and you won't be able to open the valve manually.) If the valve operates OK, then set your voltmeter to read resistance and read across the red leads. With the valve in the open position, you should read zero resistance across the disconnected red leads. With your voltmeter still reading resistance, disconnect one of the yellow leads. This should close the valve and your voltmeter should read an open circuit across the red leads. From your description, I can't tell what's going on. Unhooking yellow wire should not have operated the valve or the boiler. And, in normal operation the boiler will cycle with the valve open and the switch closed until the thermostat stops calling for heat. Cycling of the boiler depends on a valve being open and the temperature of the water in the loop. When the thermostat does stop calling for head, it will drop power to the motor head, the valve will return to the closed position, and the valve switch will move to the "open" position. If there's a problem with the valve, then remove the valve motor head and make sure you can turn the brass stem back and forth. If it doesn't, then you likely have a clogged or obstructed valve, and maybe some stripped gearing in the motor head. If the stem moves freely, then the problem is in the motor head. Just replace the motor head, not the entire valve. 90% of the time the motor head goes bad - stripped or bent gears, burned out motor, etc. I always keep a spare head or two around for just occurences.
Yes, you can replace the power head without shutting down the hot water.
if the old head attaches with 4 screws , No it can't. you would need to drain the system and also would need conversion kit 40003918 to allow the new head to fit. If the old head attaches with 2 screws then you don't need to drain the system and you don't need conversion kit.
Yes it can. Two screws and the head can be removed.
With the new style valve, yes. Only need to turn off the power.
yes motor just actuates the valve, valve will remained sealed
It depends on the valve you have. You may need an adapter kit.
will fit older valve
adapter kit needed