| Connection Type: | Union FNPT x FNPT |
|---|---|
| Size: | 3/4" |
| Material: | Bronze |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 150 |
| Max Temp (F): | 180°F |
| Min Temp (F): | 33°F |
| Length (Inches): | 3-11/16" |
| Width (Inches): | 1-7/8" |
| Lead Free: | Yes |
| Connection Method: | Threaded |
Go to this old house web site and search for water powered sump pump and watch video it shows everything
It goes before, so that the preventer can be replaced or serviced at a later date if needed.
The master shut off valve goes before the back flow preventer. This way, the back flow preventer can be changed or repaired. Make sure you install an expansion tank in the system to prevent overpressure from your water heater. This is a necessity with backflow preventers, otherwise as the water expands from the water heater, the system pressure will increase until the relief valve on the water heater opens.
The valve should be replaced when it fails - the only way to verify this with this style of valve is to install a ball valve with a drain between the valve and the water supply and check the valve periodically. Most people install the valve and forget about it.
In my opinion it is fine as long as it works. But there may be local codes for the maintenance of this check valve. Carol Pearson
Basically never. Phelps Clarke
Mike, I am not a licensed plumr , but under normal conditions this valve should give you years of trouble free service, as they are of brass construction and have a dual ck. valve inside. I have 3 installed in my system, and I soldered them in place (another words they are permanently installed), you don't have to go this route, they make them threaded so you can remove them if you have to, its your prerogative . If you do sweat it in, first take the valve body apart, keep track the way you desassembled it and put these pieces aside for now. Clean both sides of the valves brass body with an internal metal brush, apply flux, solder it in place, let cool, apply plumbers grease to the removed "o" rings, and the inside of the valve's body you put aside before, and reassemble it in the removed order. Tighten the brass nut that holds both valve body parts together, pressurize & ck for leaks. I believe Watts also sells the internal packing if you have to replace them. Hope this helped you a little, and as I mentioned, I am not a plumr by profession, best thing, contact Watts for their advise, they are the ones who make the valve. Good luck.
Please refer to the link below: http://media2.wattswater.com/ASSE-WBF-00035.pdf
ASSE 1024
ASSE #1024 Parrie Willette, Project Manager
Yes, you can use a PEX or copper fitting that has 3/4" male threads (see parts H030750 and WP4-12).
This is a threaded unit. It has Female Union NPT x Female NPT connections.