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3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

SKU:V8043E1012

Brand: Honeywell

Honeywell
Qty Price
$62.95
/ each
$299.75 / box (5 units x $59.95)
In Stock! Ships in 24-48 Hours
(462 Available)
5

Resources

Specs

Size: 3/4"
Connection Type: Sweat
Voltage:
?
24v
Body Pattern: 2-Way
Flow Capacity (Cv): 3.5
Width (Inches): 3-1/2"
End Switch: Yes
Application: Zoning
Height: 4"
Material: Brass
Amperage:
?
0.3
Voltage:
?
24v
Depth (Inches): 2-3/8"
Max Pressure (PSI): 300 psi
Flow Capacity (Cv): 3.5 Cv
Wiring: 18" Leads
Body Pattern: 2-Way
Straight-Through
Hertz: 59
Max Ambient Temp (°F): 125°F
Max Close-Off PSI: 20 psi
Position: Normally Closed
Temperature Range (F): 50°-200°F
Min Temp (F): 50°F
Max Temp (F): 200°F
Connection Type: Sweat

Description for Honeywell V8043E1012

Honeywell V8043E1012 is a 3/4" Sweat Connection Motorized two-way on-off low voltage Zone Valve. Honeywell Zone Valves V8043 consists of an actuator and valve assembly for controlling the flow of hot water.

Features:

  • May be installed without disassembling the valve;
  • Manual opener (on all models, except straight-through, normally open valves) for valve operation on power failure; valve returns to automatic position when power is restored;
  • Complete powerhead may be removed or replaced without breaking plumbing line connections or draining the system;
  • Compact construction for easy installation;
  • Approvals of Underwriters Laboratories Inc (UL Component Listed: File MH11826 Vol. 1)
  • Actuator motor may be replaced without removing the valve body or draining the system


Applications:
  • Hydronic Control. Use this valve in closed loop hydronic systems that do not contain dissolved oxygen in system water, such as fresh water from frequent source of makeup water.
  • Valve designed for cycling (not constantly powered on) applications


Specifications:
  • Pipe Size (DN): DN20
  • Fluid Temperature Range: 50 F to 200 F
  • Electrical Connections: 18" leads
  • Power Consumption: 7.7 VA
  • Nominal Timing: 15 sec
  • Valve Action: Spring return to close
  • Dimensions: 4" high x 3-1/2" wide x 2-3/8" deep
  • Auxiliary End Switch: SPST
  • End Switch Rating: 50 VA pilot duty @ 24 V
  • Static Pressure (psi): 125 psi
  • Materials (Body): Brass
  • Materials (Stem): Stainless Steel
  • Materials (Ball Plug): Buna-N (NBR) Rubber Ball
  • Materials (Packing O-rings): EPDM O-rings
  • Voltage: 24V
  • Manual Opener: Yes
  • Tradeline Value: Tradeline

3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

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Honeywell3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)
 
4.8

(based on 98 reviews)

Ratings Distribution

  • 5 Stars

     

    (79)

  • 4 Stars

     

    (18)

  • 3 Stars

     

    (1)

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    (0)

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99%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

    Cons

      Best Uses

          • Primary use:
          • Personal (78), Business (19)

        Most Liked Positive Review

         

        Exactly what I needed but......

        I am in the process of replacing a gas boiler and the zone valves, and the job is not finished yet...I am a DIY senior. I was skeptical and feared that when...Read complete review

        I am in the process of replacing a gas boiler and the zone valves, and the job is not finished yet...I am a DIY senior. I was skeptical and feared that when received, the valves would not be interchangeable with the old ones, as I did not want to replace the valve bodies, just the guts; got the valves and could not wait so I removed the guts from the old ones and new ones and swapped them; it was a breeze. My hat is off to this manufacturer.
        The price was right, the shipment arrived in just a few days and the instructions were clear.

        VS

        Most Liked Negative Review

         

        Not my first choice.

        Bought to rebuild existing zone valves. Too many things that can go wrong with motorized zone valves. Thermal zone valves are much more dependable with less moving parts therefore less potential problems.

        Bought to rebuild existing zone valves. Too many things that can go wrong with motorized zone valves. Thermal zone valves are much more dependable with less moving parts therefore less potential problems.

        Reviewed by 98 customers

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        5.0

        EASY & EFFECTIVE

        By Wally

        from CO

        Verified Buyer

        Pros

          Cons

            Best Uses

              Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

              Easy to install - solved the problem

              • Primary use:
              • Personal
               
              5.0

              Simply marvelous

              By Angel

              from Bronx,ny

              Verified Buyer

              Pros

                Cons

                  Best Uses

                    Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                    Two zone valve for two family apt. Easy to connect and intall. Simply marvelous .

                    • Primary use:
                    • Personal
                     
                    5.0

                    works great

                    By rjh

                    from roch, ny

                    Verified Buyer

                    Pros

                      Cons

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                          Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                          Heat zone control

                          • Primary use:
                          • Personal
                           
                          5.0

                          Honeywell

                          By Just another under pay employee.

                          from Silverthorne , CO.

                          Verified Buyer

                          Pros

                            Cons

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                                Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                This valves are simple and reliable .

                                • Primary use:
                                • Business

                                (0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

                                 
                                4.0

                                Problem Fixed!

                                By Hobomatt

                                from Colorado Springs

                                Verified Buyer

                                Pros

                                  Cons

                                    Best Uses

                                      Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                      It would be VERY nice if one could just purchase the electrical part of the valve. I had two out of four zone valves fail in our 15 year old residential system. The only thing needed was the valve control and switch.n Alas, we had to order the whole valve, just to get the electrical part. What a waste! Other than that issue, everything was 100% good in this deal. Anyone want to buy two brand new brass valves!

                                      • Primary use:
                                      • Personal
                                       
                                      5.0

                                      Zone Valve

                                      By Lee

                                      from River Falls WI

                                      Verified Buyer

                                      Pros

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                                            Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                            Had to change to the new zone valves, the old ones were tired out. Thanks

                                            • Primary use:
                                            • Personal

                                            (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

                                             
                                            5.0

                                            Hot water valve power head

                                            By crclbrnr

                                            from Klamath Falls, OR

                                            Verified Buyer

                                            Pros

                                              Cons

                                                Best Uses

                                                  Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                                  Needed a new power head for an outdated valve. Fit perfectly and was easy to install without draining system. Outstanding service from the people at Pex Supply!!

                                                  • Primary use:
                                                  • Personal

                                                  (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

                                                   
                                                  5.0

                                                  Solid Construction, Good Value

                                                  By aerolark

                                                  from Southold, NY

                                                  Verified Buyer

                                                  Pros

                                                    Cons

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                                                        Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                                        Used these when adding a zone for basement heat. Two weeks in and they're working fine.

                                                        Recommend taking the motor body and valve assembly off before soldering: There's a sealing O-Ring and the valve seal "ball" is rubber/viton which could EASILY get fried when soldering, even when in the "MAN" position.

                                                        Besides, it's good practice for when they will need servicing.

                                                        • Primary use:
                                                        • Personal

                                                        (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

                                                         
                                                        5.0

                                                        Reliable and simple to repair.

                                                        By RkyMtnRon

                                                        from Denver, CO

                                                        Verified Buyer

                                                        Pros

                                                          Cons

                                                            Best Uses

                                                              Comments about 1/2" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                                              Can be manually opened to test a heat zone, or for emergency heating if motor fails. I use the aux. switch contacts, in a multi-zone system, to control a single heat pump relay.

                                                              Use a T-8 torx driver to replace motor. Use a 5/16" box-end wrench to remove or replace the ballseal assembly (suggest removing it to solder the valve body).

                                                              Rotating ball shaped seal eliminates typical seal failure and reduces "turbulent flow" inside the valve, for quiet operation.

                                                              Set your T-stat "anticipator" to .23 when using this zone valve. Uses 7.7VA per unit, so be sure your 24-volt X-former has adequate capacity and allow for a safety factor.

                                                              • Primary use:
                                                              • Business

                                                              (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

                                                               
                                                              5.0

                                                              Just what I needed at a fair price

                                                              By Terry

                                                              from Columbus, OHIO

                                                              Verified Buyer

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                                                                Cons

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                                                                    Comments about 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads):

                                                                    Hello, I am a retired plumber and continue to service our home hot water heating system. Your pricing for Honeywell aquastat, zone valves and thermostat was only slightly higher than my local HVAC supply. Since I am no longer able to buy at contractor's discount, I was pleased to find product and pricing comparable to my discount when in business years ago.

                                                                    • Primary use:
                                                                    • Personal

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                                                                    30 Questions | 71 Answers
                                                                    Displaying questions 1-10Previous | Next »
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      i have the 8043e1012 valve, when it closes, there's a banging in the hot water lines in the house. can a spring be removed to dampen the vibration. i put the pump to low from medium and it did help, but not by much.
                                                                      Asked on 2/4/2014 by charlie from yaphank, new york

                                                                      5 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        This valve already is designed to close slowly, and I'm quite sure modifying it would not help. Here are a couple things I thought of:
                                                                        -- Perhaps your valve is installed such that the ball is closing to the seat *with* the flow of water, rather than *against* it?
                                                                        -- Along with the above, perhaps your pump is not being turned off by the valve-open switch, so it's running when the valve closes, and the flow of water tends to force the valve closed?
                                                                        I could envision this problem being caused by this scenario.
                                                                        You would want to make sure the pump turns off as soon as the valve begins to close, so no water is flowing when the valve reaches full-closed. That should prevent the water hammering you're hearing.
                                                                        --Dan Meis

                                                                        Answered on 2/12/2014 by Dan M. from Wisconsin
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        This valve already is designed to close slowly, and I'm quite sure modifying it would not help. Here are a couple things I thought of:
                                                                        -- Perhaps your valve is installed such that the ball is closing to the seat *with* the flow of water, rather than *against* it?
                                                                        -- Along with the above, perhaps your pump is not being turned off by the valve-open switch, so it's running when the valve closes, and the flow of water tends to force the valve closed?
                                                                        I could envision this problem being caused by this scenario.
                                                                        You would want to make sure the pump turns off as soon as the valve begins to close, so no water is flowing when the valve reaches full-closed. That should prevent the water hammering you're hearing.
                                                                        --Dan Meis

                                                                        Answered on 2/12/2014 by Dan M. from Wisconsin
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        The first thing I would check is the expansion tank sizing (diaphragm type I
                                                                        hope), it never surprises me to find one too small because way too many
                                                                        around here I find undersized. When it comes to expansion tanks it MUST BE
                                                                        sized and charge to match system operating pressure.
                                                                        It could be the zone valve is installed against the water flow too, much
                                                                        less likely depending on who installed it.

                                                                        Answered on 2/5/2014 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        You have air in your system. The zone valve has nothing to do with your
                                                                        problem. The cause could be a couple things IMO. I asume since we're in the
                                                                        middle of our heating season, your boiler has been working hard to maintain
                                                                        heat. This is the fix I have used to eliminate the banging in a HWBB system
                                                                        while the system is in use with sucess. A word of caution first; system
                                                                        water is usually 180 degrees or greater, boiling water is 212, so always be
                                                                        careful. Also, be prepared when your interacting with the system, things
                                                                        like supply valves will almost always freeze open, so before you start,
                                                                        read the other fix, and check the supply shut off valve. If needed free
                                                                        that up first, you may need it. I'll talk about that issue later in this
                                                                        post.
                                                                        1. replace the air bleeder located on the return side close to the boiler,
                                                                        usually above the expansion tank, if it has been on the system for a while
                                                                        it becomes suspect. 2. You need to evacuate the air slug in the loop that
                                                                        is banging. The easiest way I found during the heat season, was to prepare
                                                                        a hose that will supply warm water, (never cold, that will crack the cast
                                                                        iron heat exchanger), to introduce water at a decent pressure, to move the
                                                                        air slug out. This method is assuming you have at least one diverter/purge
                                                                        valve in one of the zones. Attach one end of the hose to the drain valve
                                                                        located at the bottom of the boiler. Note: expect that valve to leak after
                                                                        this process, so the cheapest fix is to just screw another valve at the end
                                                                        of that valve. Buy a brass one because of the heat involved at that valve.
                                                                        Attach the other end to the laundry faucet. Remember, you need to purge the
                                                                        air out of the hose first, so as not to introduce more air, then connect it
                                                                        up. 3. attach a hose to the diverter/purge valve into a large bucket. I
                                                                        rigged up a clear two foot end to that hose, which I purchased at Home
                                                                        Depot to allow me to see the air comming out. 4. apply water to system at
                                                                        the same time your opening the diverter to keep system pressure under the
                                                                        blow-off valve pressure, usually its around 30psi. This will move the slug
                                                                        out of the system. You must have only one zone manually open at a time, so
                                                                        you isolate the air slug to that loop, if need be open other zones one at a
                                                                        time keeping all others closed. Close up the system and you should be ready
                                                                        to go.
                                                                        Now, whats causing the air to enter the system. I have found on two
                                                                        seperate times on two different HWBB systems, the culprit is the check/fast
                                                                        fill valve is not operating as designed. This becomes tricky to address
                                                                        because the system is in use. The absolute fix is to replace it. That
                                                                        sometimes is beyond the scope of the weekend warrior home owner. In one fix
                                                                        I got lucky and just opened and closed the fast fill valve several times
                                                                        and it unstuck, you don't even know it wasn't working, allowing water as
                                                                        needed per its designed function. Remember, if you do try this, your
                                                                        introducing more water, thus more pressure in the system, so you need to
                                                                        monitor system pressure. Ideal is 12psi, but mine likes 20psi, never got it
                                                                        lower and thats fine. Now if the check/fast fill valve doesn't close, thats
                                                                        where your supply shut off needs to be operating to avoid a relief valve
                                                                        from blowing off. Otherwise your going to shut the main down. The other one
                                                                        the valve was completely froze and couldn't let needed water into the
                                                                        system, thus causing the air slug. Limped the system till spring to do that
                                                                        changeout.
                                                                        By the way, I slept at a holiday Inn Express last night.

                                                                        Answered on 2/4/2014 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Source of noise is water hammer caused by the valve closing too fast. Disconnect the short spring on the valve and the water hammer should go away. Common problem with quick closing valves.

                                                                        Answered on 2/4/2014 by Anonymous
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      Can a V8043 E 1012 motorized vale be used instead of a V 8043 F 1036 and what's the difference?
                                                                      Asked on 1/24/2014 by Bill Briggs from Pentwater Mi.

                                                                      3 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        The two are the same except the 8043E uses wires to connect to the thermostat and the 8043F has a screw blocks to connect thermostat wires.

                                                                        Answered on 1/29/2014 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        basically the same valve, the E1012 has factory installed leads, the F1036 has an external terminal board, Can be used interchangeably

                                                                        Answered on 1/24/2014 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Yes, you can. Difference is terminal block versus lead wires.You will have to use pieces of wire to make wiring. If replacing old one cut and use wires from the old.  Also if replaced valve relatively new version you can replace just head leaving brass seat in place and save time on soldering. 

                                                                        Answered on 1/24/2014 by Anonymous
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      i am installing a HOneywell V8043E1012. It has 2 yellow leads and 2 red leads. Does it matter which red and which yellow that I connect as long as they are the same color?
                                                                      Thank you.
                                                                      Asked on 12/4/2013 by T from Colorado

                                                                      10 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        There is no polarity to either the red pair or yellow pair. The valve motor accepts 24 VAC on one pair (yellow as I recall) to open it. The other pair (red as I recall) is the end switch, which carries 24 VAC to your circulator pump relay (a "fan center" is often used) to turn the pump on whenever the valve is open. Hope this helps!
                                                                        -Dan

                                                                        Answered on 12/5/2013 by Dan M. from Wisconsin
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        There is no polarity to either the red pair or yellow pair. The valve motor accepts 24 VAC on one pair (yellow as I recall) to open it. The other pair (red as I recall) is the end switch, which carries 24 VAC to your circulator pump relay (a "fan center" is often used) to turn the pump on whenever the valve is open. Hope this helps!
                                                                        -Dan

                                                                        Answered on 12/5/2013 by Dan M. from Wisconsin
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Yes, just connect either yellow wire to a yellow wires and the same for the red.

                                                                        Answered on 12/5/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        NO, its an AC voltage system so there is no polarity.

                                                                        Answered on 12/5/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Dosen't matter. If it did matter, they would make the wires diffent colors.
                                                                        Yellow pair is power to make the valve open. Red pair is for an end switch.

                                                                        Answered on 12/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        In most cases It doesn't matter. Control 24VAC voltage generally has no polarity. In addition, if it would matter they would be marked accordingly. There are some rare exceptions of wiring however. This would be If several transformers are used crossing in to the same circuit it is better if AC voltageis are in phase and would not fight one with another. If you have one transformer setup or two transformers setup but totally independent circuits for thermostats (these yelow thwires that  thermostats complete) and for boiler control (which these two red wires complete) then you are free to connect any yellows and any reds.     

                                                                        Answered on 12/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        No it does not matter it is made for a closed-circuit/loop systems

                                                                        Answered on 12/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Not sure if this helps, but I just replaced mine marking each lead and
                                                                        reconnecting them in reverse order. My original installation was wired by a
                                                                        friend in the business. So, all I did was switch out the "head" leaving the
                                                                        zone valve (brass) assy. in place, when the electronic side of the valve
                                                                        failed. Good luck.

                                                                        Answered on 12/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        The 2 yellow leads are usually connected in series with the 24 VAC
                                                                        circuit with the thermostat so that when the thermostat contacts close
                                                                        on a call for heat, the circuit is closed and the 24 VAC operates the
                                                                        motor in the Honeywell zone valve. As the zone valve opens, it also
                                                                        closes a contact switch attached to the 2 red leads. Thus, the two red
                                                                        leads are usually connected to the 2 connections marked "thermostat" in
                                                                        the furnace control box. So what happens is that when the thermostat
                                                                        calls for heat, it supplies power to the zone valve causing it to open
                                                                        and the contact switch to close. The closed contact switch then turns
                                                                        on the furnace and circulator pump. When the thermostat is satisfied,
                                                                        it cut power to the zone valve, causing it to close and the contact
                                                                        switch to open. The open contact switch causes the furnace and
                                                                        circulator pump to shut down.

                                                                        Answered on 12/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Installation instructions have multiple wiring diagrams depending on how the system control is configured and if this valve is replacing another manufactures' valve. Basically the yellow leads are the power leads for the actuator motor and the red leads are from the end switch and used to control the boiler, pump or other devices in the system.

                                                                        Answered on 12/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      I currently am using B&G CT24 3/4" zone valves and am considering switching them out for Honeywell or Taco. (I am always having a problem with one of the B&G and am looking for a more reliable replacement.) Is this Honeywell a compatible replacement - and will the existing brass valve work with the Honeywell or does it need to be replace as well?
                                                                      Thanks.
                                                                      Asked on 11/7/2013 by Bob from Asheboro, NC

                                                                      5 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        I'm sure the Honeywell mechanism is not compatible with the B&G valve - you will need to replace the entire unit. I have worked with Taco, Wirsbo, and Honeywell; and I like Honeywell the best.

                                                                        Answered on 11/11/2013 by Dan M. from Wisconsin
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        With this valve you will have to replace complete valve assembly. You will have to soder it in place in right dirrection to 3/4 copper pipes. In that regard it completely compartible replacement. Depending on your setup you wire it accordingly preferably with end switch red wires activating boiler T-T terminals. Unless you have extremely old non 24v system, you should not have any problems. It comes with accurate instructions and possible wiring schemes.  

                                                                        Answered on 11/7/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Entire valve (including body) will need to be replaced. Both are 24 vac. Honeywell uses an end switch to activate boiler and pump (if wired that way).

                                                                        Answered on 11/7/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        The Honeywell zone valves are very reliable and are probably the most
                                                                        widely used valve for hydronic heating system zone control. However, if
                                                                        you're replacing existing B&G CT-24 valves with either the Honeywell or
                                                                        Taco valves, the motor assemblies on each are different and incompatible
                                                                        with each other. Therefore, you'll have to replace the entire unit
                                                                        consisting of the brass valve and motor assembly.

                                                                        Answered on 11/7/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        I,m not familiar with the B&G valve. Been using Honeywell for many years, no problems. They use a rolling ball
                                                                        seat that won't jam. Having soft water helps too.
                                                                        Eric

                                                                        Answered on 11/7/2013 by molecule from Michigan
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      I want to install honeywell zone valve V8043E 1012 . My question is.... Do I have to take off the actuator head off the valve assmbly before applying the heat/soldering?? ..( wont I otherwise cause heat damage to the motor , microswitch, wires ,etc.....I dont want to "fry" my new zone valve by installing it wrong)....any tips would be greatly appreciated.. thanx much..
                                                                      Asked on 10/28/2013 by Doc Bob from Rockland Co. NY

                                                                      6 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Are you replacing the same zone valve V80443E 1012. then the answer is no.
                                                                        You can just swap out the control head into the existing valve already
                                                                        installed in your system

                                                                        Answered on 11/4/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        This valve ships with a nice instruction sheet in the box, which tells you to simply place the manual control lever in the "open" position before soldering it up. However, if you are really cautious like me, it's super easy to disassemble the mechanism. The cover just pops off, then two screws allow the motor to be removed. Two more screws allow the cover and valve arm & ball to be removed -- note that there's a thin o-ring in between that you'll want to make sure is correctly positioned when re-assembling.

                                                                        Answered on 10/30/2013 by Dan M. from Wisconsin
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Why take the risk - remove the actuator! Place the actuator lever in
                                                                        the locked open position, remove actuator assembly by removing the two
                                                                        bolts using a Torx wrench, pull it off the valve assembly (note the
                                                                        orientationn of the shaft so you when you re-insert the shaft, the ball
                                                                        valve will be in the correct position - common sense helps), unscrew the
                                                                        two bolts that hold the valve assembly and remove the ball valve
                                                                        assembly being careful not to lose or damage the o-ring. Then do the
                                                                        soldering! Reassemble by reversing the process!

                                                                        Answered on 10/30/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        I just set the valve to "open" befor soldering so the ball isn't touching the seat which is what will be getting hot

                                                                        Answered on 10/29/2013 by Garth from New Brunswick
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Well, it depends on your soldering skills. Manufacturer recommends just keep the valve in open position (hand lever opened and locked). This will keep rubber ball valve from touching the seat (which is part of the solder body and becomes really hot) Heat transfer to the mechanism itself is unsignificant due to the fact that it seats on only two   
                                                                        stays and attached to them with two screws. If you in doubt, you can remove this head by removing these two screws. However, installing head back in the right position sometimes a bit tricky. If your valve same honeywell valve and is more or less modern, you can also conciser removing old head and replacing with new head. Honeywell changed design for easy replacement several years ago. Therefore since then heads are interchangeable. To see if they are you have to remove covers from new and old valve and compare. In any case better to have new valve ready and make decision after inspection.   

                                                                        Answered on 10/29/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        I USUALLY SEPARATE BEFORE SOLDERING, ALWAYS BETTER TO BE SAFE THAN SORRY.

                                                                        Answered on 10/29/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      I have an old Honeywell z-21-13 a1993 boiler. The zone valve for this unit is v8043e 1012. The boiler services two zones. One zone works fine, but the second zone does not deliver heat even when I manually open the valve and turn the thermostat up (10 degrees higher than ambient temperature.) The pump is working, evidenced by zone one heating up. The thermostat works because when I turn it on, the water is heated and the pump appears to turn on. Any suggestions?
                                                                      Asked on 9/29/2013 by Joe B. from USA

                                                                      5 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Each zone is controlled by its own thermostat. All zones are in
                                                                        parallel and anyone of them should be able to control the furnace
                                                                        ignition and pump. Thus, they are OR'ed together - in a two zone
                                                                        system, EITHER the Zone 1 OR Zone 2 can control the ignition and pump.
                                                                        Each thermostat controls the operation of its own motorized
                                                                        valve/furnace control switch. When a thermostat triggers a valve to
                                                                        operate, two things must happen : a 24-volt motor physically opens the
                                                                        valve AND when fully-opened, closes a micro-switch that activates the
                                                                        furnace control discussed above (i.e . furnace ignition and pump). The
                                                                        valve movement also opens the normally closed water valve the returns
                                                                        water from the zone.
                                                                        Several things can prevent a zone from working properly:
                                                                        1. The thermostat may be disconnected;
                                                                        2. The 24-volt supply may not be providing sufficient voltage two open
                                                                        the valve AND trigger the microswitch at the extreme open-position;
                                                                        3. The motor in the valve may be too weak (or non-functional) to move
                                                                        the valve especially if the valve is jammed or sluggish because of
                                                                        calcium residue buildup. This can be exasperated by high resistance in
                                                                        the thermostat connection to the valve - perhaps due to extremely long
                                                                        runs of high-gadge wires. If the valve can't open (and no other zones
                                                                        are turned-on) the furnace will not be "on" or the water won't flow
                                                                        through the zone. Thus - no heat in the zone.
                                                                        4. The valve is otherwise malfunctioning.

                                                                        Answered on 10/18/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Even though you are moving the manual lever to open the valve, the valve
                                                                        itself may not be moving. As I recall there is a spring link between the
                                                                        gears so that even if they are moving the valve can remain closed. Also the
                                                                        small gear on the drive motor can break off or strip easily, then the valve
                                                                        isn't opened by the thermostat.
                                                                        You can remove the valve head from the soldered on connection with two
                                                                        screw at the rear of the head. You'll have to drain the system unless your
                                                                        installation has shut off valves for that zone. Be ready to catch some
                                                                        water!
                                                                        Now you can see what the valve is really doing. 20 years is a long life for
                                                                        these valves. If you need to replace it, you most likely can use the
                                                                        existing, soldered in connection.

                                                                        Answered on 10/2/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Most likely, you have some air in the piping of the zone that's not
                                                                        heating up that's preventing the hot water from circulating. You may
                                                                        need to replace the automatic air vent valve on that zone, and then
                                                                        flush and refill both zones with fresh water.

                                                                        Answered on 9/30/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        AIR LOCK IN THE ZONE.
                                                                        shut down other zone.
                                                                        activate manual in line gate valve on nonworking zone and bleed the line.

                                                                        Answered on 9/29/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        If hot water is available for zone 1 you must have an obstruction or air in zone 2. If you did any repairs to the heating system recently then it's air bound. Go to the highest point in the zone and bleed the air after the circulator turns on. Make sure make up water is working and available. Good luck.
                                                                        Tommy

                                                                        Answered on 9/29/2013 by genpower from nj
                                                                    • 1/2" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      This valve is typically powered-open with 24VAC. Will this motor also work with a 24VDC system?
                                                                      Asked on 7/30/2013 by K from NY

                                                                      3 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        No, this valve requires 24 VAC, which is the typical control voltage
                                                                        used in a hydronic heating system.

                                                                        Answered on 7/30/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        I DOUBT THAT IT WILL WORK , BUT WHERE WOULD ONE GET 24VDC ON ANY TYPICAL HYDRONIC HEATING SYSTEM ?

                                                                        Answered on 7/30/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        typically a/c valves can not be powered by dc current you will need a dc
                                                                        valve or swap out your dc "transformer" for a/c transformer

                                                                        Answered on 8/1/2013 by Anonymous
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      The installer put this valve in my open loop hydronic cooling system. It has been about 2 years now and leaking through, what valve do you recomend I change to?
                                                                      Asked on 8/3/2012 by Joe

                                                                      5 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        Hi:
                                                                        The only place where the leak may occur at the rubber ball stem which is
                                                                        attached to the motor and the O ring that sit between the motor plate and
                                                                        housing plate. Honey well zone valve last for long time. Buy a new one and
                                                                        remove the old motor assembly and install onto the housing piece which is
                                                                        soldered to the pipe. No need to remove the housing. I hope this help
                                                                        John Mui

                                                                        Answered on 8/4/2012 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        If their is no shout off valve, you will have to drain system.
                                                                        replace with flair zone valve , if you are real careful cutting out old valve you will not need to add pipe.
                                                                        tako is a very good valve, you can replace the gate without removing valve.

                                                                        Answered on 8/4/2012 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        This valve is the preferred valve and I recommend replacing with the
                                                                        same. Honeywell makes a great product even though yours only lasted two
                                                                        years.

                                                                        Answered on 8/6/2012 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        why not just replace it with the same valve? The only other option is to go to a circulated system. Then you would have to use circulators and switching controls. not sure would be cost effective.

                                                                        Answered on 8/8/2012 by Anonymous
                                                                      • CUSTOMER CARE

                                                                        A:

                                                                        This zone valve is designed for use only in closed-loop systems. You might want to consider one of Taco's "geothermal" zone valves, which can be used in open-loop systems.

                                                                        Answered on 8/29/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
                                                                    • 1/2" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      What is the life Expetancy of these valves?
                                                                      Asked on 5/31/2012 by nobelb from NE Pennsylvania

                                                                      2 answers

                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        This same style valve has been used for years. I've seen them
                                                                        last over 20 years.

                                                                        Answered on 6/1/2012 by Anonymous
                                                                      • VERIFIED BUYER

                                                                        A:

                                                                        I have a couple hundred of these valves in service. It is the only zone
                                                                        valve I will use. Many have been operating for over 15 years without any
                                                                        problems. I have not had a single leaker - not one! A few end switches and
                                                                        motors have failed over time, but it is certainly the exception. I consider
                                                                        the V8043 series to be the best residential zone valve on the market.
                                                                        Bigshrub

                                                                        Answered on 5/31/2012 by Anonymous
                                                                    • 3/4" Sweat Zone Valve (Connection = 18" Leads)

                                                                      Q:

                                                                      what happens if used on open system
                                                                      Asked on 4/23/2012 by NH Murph from NH

                                                                      1 answer

                                                                      • CUSTOMER CARE

                                                                        A:

                                                                        The oxygen present in open systems can cause the rubber ball inside the zone valve to harden and break down.

                                                                        Answered on 5/4/2012 by PexSupply Staff from NY
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