| Height (Inches): | 3-7/8" |
|---|---|
| Type: | Hydronic Kickspace Heaters |
| Application: | Hydronic Heating |
| Length (Inches): | 23" |
| BTU Output: | 12990 |
| Color: | Black |
| Product Type: | Kickspace Heater |
| BTU: | 8425-12990 |
| BTU (Min): | 8425 |
| BTU (Max): | 12990 |
| Width (Inches): | 23" |
| Height: | 3-7/8" |
| Flow Rate: | 1-3GPM |
| Model: | K120 |
| Depth (Inches): | 12-3/4" |
| Water Connection: | 1/2" |
| Thread Size: | 1/2"IDFitting |

Yes. A 3-position switch for low, high and off. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Yes, that is correct. Off, low, and high.
Yes. Jim Cordes
Yes, off is the middle position. It rocks right for low and left for high. allisoncornell.com
Yes, the a available settings are Min, Max and Off. Sent from my iPhone
Yes
Yes there are three settings High Low and Off the product has worked great we have three of them installed in our facilities.
It comes with a standard black grille as shown in our product photo. Designer grilles can be purchased separately. These are available in either black or white, with either slotted or diamond-shaped holes.
It's a simple metal grille just as pictured below. As I recall, it is up to the installer to devise a mounting. Hope this helps! Sent from my iPod
The grid at the front of the photo is the grille. There are also two end pieces that screw into the toe kick surround to hold it in place. The grille is positioned such that the fan speed switch on the front of the unit is aligned with the corresponding hole in the grill. When you've got it in front of you, it should be pretty self-explanatory. One thing to watch and account for is the clearance needed for the piping on the front of the coil, it can be pretty tight if the cabinet casing is made of thick material. If that is the case, you may need to "carve" out some clearance space to allow the front of the heater to be flush with the toe kick molding. Good luck!
The grill on the unit is a black metal much like a standard grill for your forced air systems. Hope this is what you were looking for.
The unit comes with a black metal grate, which is pictured. It's fairly sturdy and will not kick in easily!
It is made of steel painted black.
At 1ft away: on maximum setting 62-64 decibels and on minimum setting 50-55 decibels
Please see the chart on the first page of the specification sheet at the link below for the heat output ratings of Beacon Morris kickspace heaters at various fluid temperatures. The K120 will easily be able to provide 1,300 BTUs. http://s3.pexsupply.com/product_files/KickspaceSub2.pdf
The manufacturer recommends buying a larger heater and setting it on the low fan setting in situations like these.
We have this unit in our kitchen, and the fan appears to only come on when it reaches a certain temperature point. The fan can not be set to "always on" as far as I've experienced.
I have the heater in my bathroom. It has a minimum, off and maximum setting. Mine is controlled by a thermostat so it will turn off and on as the room reaches the appropriate temperature. It is fan driven so you will hear it. If you are a light sleeper you may wish to consider one of those dehlonghi heaters which electrically heat a liquid which radiates heat into the room with no noise. Elliott Abrams
One can configure several different options for controlling the fan in a kick space heater. Although it won't come "out of the box" set to be constantly on, whoever does the installation can easily make this happen. Keep in mind that heat comes out of the kick space heater when the fan is on AND when hot water is passing through the coils. You did not describe the configuration of your hot water heating system, but if we assume that you have a thermostat in your room that controls the zone on to which the kick space heater would be added, letting the fan run constantly should not cause your room to overheat. If I were you I would consider wiring a timer switch in parallel with a thermostatically controlled switch. During the time period you designate on the timer (your sleep time) the fan can run constantly. During the rest of the day the themostatically controlled switch will turn the fan on only when hot water is present in the heating coils. The K120 kick space heater comes with a power switch that lets you select between a fan speed of "off", "low", or "high".
Yes it on or off with a high or low setting. Sent from my iPad
Hi, Fan cannot be placed in a continuous run mode, as it requires heat in the tubes to activate the fan. Fan can be in Lo-Hi-or off. Roland DuBois
Light sleeper may hear the fan come on. It's a little less noticeable on the low speed. Personally, I prefer the kick space heaters for kitchens or basements and not sleeping areas but they do put out nice heat..
A K42 would have the closest output to five feet of baseboard. You should use a monoflo tee if you are installing the unit off an existing hydronic heating loop.
Your 5 ft of baseboard, assuming a typical Installation, might deliver about 5*600 = 3,000 Btu/ hr. The k42 is rated at 1480-5240 Btu/hr. As the k42 is cheapest and will meet your need I'd use it. Whether you need monoflo depends on your installation. If the baseboard that you are replacing is fed by a monoflo then you will still need monoflo. If the baseboard you are replacing is part of a bigger, 3/4 inch loop then you would want to consider that the k42 is only 1/2 in. And will restrict water flow too much in the rest of the loop if plumbed in series like the old baseboard. I would either plumb it in parallel using monoflo Tee with a 3/4" diameter pipe. Or use normal Tee and in the 3/4" parallel piece with a valve which you can restrict the flow if K42 heat output seems too low. If your baseboard is only 1/2" just plumb k42 directly into the loop with out the parallel bypass pipe. It does not matter if supply and return are swapped for the k42. If your question was in regard to the monoflo T, direction does matter. But if I'd installed one wrong I'd try it before ripping it apart. Depending on the error it may not be significant. -Chipper
The k42 is bigger the 5 ft of base board. Don't buy a unit bigger than your cabinet! Mono flow is not needed and directing in and out of the unit don't really matter. Sent from my iPad
The k84 would prob. be enough, and they do recommend mono flow for the install...and do not mix up the supply and return as the return water is not as hot as the water coming from the boiler (supply)
The elevated flow rate proposed presents no adverse effect on the kickspace heater. No damage will occur. According to the manufacturer, there may be a slightly elevated BTU output but it will be marginal.
You can connect the unit to copper or PEX, but there is also a flexible hose kit available (part HK-10).
If you are installing this under a cabinet you should use flexible connections with sharkbite elbow fittings. If you are mounting it where it is accessible I would still use sharkbite fittings because the instructions say not to silver solder it.
You can solder this in solid or use 5/8 in heater hose from an auto parts store with 4 brass solder in barbed fittings from your plumbing store or online. You can also buy the kit, but its $50 for $20 worth of parts.
The unit doesn't have an on/off switch, but does let the homeowner select fan speed. Basically, the unit engages according to heating demand. Adjustment can be made to the direction that the air is forced out, however.
Yes, they can be installed in a wall. Beacon Morris also offers a wall box (part W120).
Lou, Don't they make wall-mount units? I wasn't looking specifially for one...but I b'lieve I saw them while surfing for the Kick-Plate heater I bought. I guess you probably could install in a wall, but you would need to duct the out-flow away from the floor with a 90 degree duct. The other thing is that at least the K-120 would be too wide to fit between 16 in. centers. The width qouted doesn't include the hook ups, which you could 90 as well.