| Application: | 3/8" PEX |
|---|---|
| Material: | Plastic |
I don't think they are galvanized but you could pull the nail and swap it with a galvanized one. I don't think pex is supposed to be out in the sun though. You will likely grow algae inside the tubing and the uv isn't good for the plastic. K
Although I haven't used these outside, I would think the weather and sun would definitely affect the plastic. The nails do not look like they are galvanized. On Wednesday, 14 September 2016, SupplyHouse Team <
They will contact surface.
These anchors hold the tubing directly against the joist or stud they are attached to. They are very strong and secure the tubing extremely well. Sent from my iPhone
Los: First, I took the serrated nail out of the clamp. You have to really grab ahold of that nail to get it out of there! Next, I used screws to mount the clamp to joists. Select a good length screw. Why? Easy to use a screw gun in one hand, and then hold clamp with pipe in it to the surface you want to clamp it to with the other hand. It's a two-hand operation Finally, the pipe is fairly tightly held to the surface the clamp is screwed into. I can't quantify that in lbs. of force, but the pipe is definitely not off the surface you are using the clamp on. Hope this helps! Sent from my iPad
You'll generally want to support PEX every two to three feet in radiant heating applications.
If you use the tube talons for radiant heat, your job will most likely sound like a popcorn popper each time it cycles on. Pex tubing expands quite a bit when it heats. I recommend the pex lock clips that suspend the tubing slightly below the floor. To answer your question, between 2 and 3 feet spacing on straight pipe and 3 clamps to make the horse shoe at the end of the joist bay. Unless you are using heat transfer plates, the tubing should not be secured directly to the floor. Big Shrub
I laid mine between plywood layers. But if you are applying this under a sub floor I would place them tight to keep the heat transfer From Craig's mobile office
Those clamps are to hold tobing in place in walls and along runs in floor stringers. As far as radiant heat goes.just enough to hold pex in position during the overpour and cure, not a code requirement. If you have concrete reinforcement wire or rebar it can be wirted to it as well. Just don't use anything that will gouge the plastic.
It depends on what type of radiant heat you are doing. If it is underneath the floor between rafters, probably every 12 to 18 inches and count of at least 4 for every 180 turn. However you should really use a alu heat diffuser which may not be compatible with the talons. Otherwise the diffusers are 12- 16 inches long and you should have a talon at each end. If it is going to be set into concrete/ gyptocrete you probably only need them every three of 4 feet since you just need to keep the pex from floating or shifting during to pour.
The 1" talon will extend about 1-1/2" beyond the surface it's connected to.
Normally you would cut the insulation to install the clip.
Each 1/2" tube talon measures 7/8" from the floor.
The nail will extend out of the tube talon 3/4".
Yes, these tube talons may be used in a radiant heat application to mount PEX tubing to a subfloor.