| Length (Inches): | 10" |
|---|---|
| Application: | 1/2" PEX |
| Material: | Aluminum |
| Tubing Type: | Oxygen Barrier |

The hangers should normally be placed between 18 and 24 inches apart, depending on the spacing of the tubing. Tubing is normally spaced 24 inches apart in high-temperature (150°F to 180°F) applications, and 18 inches apart in low-temperature applications.
No I think they are specific to 1/2 pex only
No. for 1/2 in only
I used them with 5/8". I just do not believe they would fit around 3/4". Sent from my iPad
I have tried to use the 1/2" Ultra-fins on a 5/8" Pex and it didn't go well at all I would use the correct size fins if they have them or you will have nothing but problems. Doug
Yes, it's fine for hardwood BUT be sure to download the mfg's installation manual and follow to the T.
Just make sure the water temp is not too hot. Temper down to 120 f. Rick JacksonOwnerRick Jackson Construction, LLC.Office***.****Fax***.****
I used ultra-fin in my floor joists. The first winter, the fins were exposed and never sweat. By the time the next winter rolled around, I had used R-13 fiberglass insulation between the hot water tubing and drywall ceiling (I hate drop ceiling) and haven't experienced any problems. Parts of my basement ceiling have insulation and no drywall (laundry room) and I have never seen any sweating. Hope this helps. The only complaint I have with the fins is the noise. When the boiler kicks on, the tubing expands and makes a noise for a minute or two. After that it quiets down. Other than that, they work really well!!!
The heat from the Ultra-Fins is less likely to make cold water pipes sweat since it helps dry out the air. However since the temperature of the joist cavity will likely be in the 90’s you will be warming cold water pipes and the water that’s in them. This could result in your cold tap water being warm – and probably undrinkable – until flushed out. Best not to have cold water pipes and Ultra-Fins in the same joist bay for this reason.
If I understand the question, I insulted between my floor joists below the insulating plates which hand below my sub floor about two inches. I used R-13 insulation with the paper side facing down to the floor. However, it should be noted that my local building inspector recommended that the insulation "papered side" face up closest to sub floor for fire safety reasons. When installed with the paper up, the insulation tends to hang town over time. I hope this is helpful. Feel free to pass on my email address to your customer if requested. Thanks. Bruce
KV. With a convection system like this, you need to be absolutely sure that fiberglass insulation leaves an air gap beneath the panel, or you won't get any heat out of it. I used aluminized foil insulation product with an air core stapled to the underside of the joist. Works excellent and didn't cost much more than fiberglass. Having that large air cavity really helps stabilize the floor temp. I run 140 degree water and keep the house at 72 up in the mountains of the Northeast. Good luck with your project! Live Free or Die - NH, USA
The foil face insulation should face the heating element so that it can reflect the heat upwards
Hello fellow installer, After putting the aluminum fin plates in I put in a aluminum insulated foil leaving a air gap then placing any insulation you desire under that. The aluminum foil helps with radiating the heat up or in the direction you want it to go. Doug
you should always use faced as a vapor barrier, and it should ALWAYS face the warm side.. that means up, they make insulation wires that go under the insulation to prevent it from dropping over the years. I would recommend foil faced insulation to help radiate the heat up where you want it.
The Aluminum Ultra-Fin Plates with Turn Keys (Box of 100) works on the same general principal as aluminum plates screwed under the floor.
No Ultrafin requires an air gap of at least 2"" top and bottom. Heat is transferred by convection. The other ones transfer heat by direct contact with the floor.
Actually the answer is No.... Better as the fin being hung 2" below the floor creates a convection between the floor joists totally heating the floor above. I highly reccomend this product. I use rigid 2" foam as insolation.
Yes, you can always add more fins which will give you more surface area to allow more heat transfer. You want to make sure you also insulated under the Ultra-Fins in the joist bays.
No, they are designed for 1/2" PEX.
They are sized for 1/2 but you could open them up a little to fit 3/4. It might be just as easy to make your own out of form wire. KAF
You may have problems on days that require the full heating load because the R-value of the floor may prevent the plates from working correctly.
We would recommend that you have a larger air gap with this product.