
| Application: | Heat Only |
|---|---|
| Stages: | 1 Heat |
| Programmability: | Programmable 7 Day |
| User Interface: | Push Button |
| Mount: | Vertical Horizontal |
| Options: | Comes with Sensor |
| Power Method: | Hardwired |
| Voltage: | Low voltage |
| Color: | White |
| Height: | 2-7/8" |
| Width: | 2-7/8" |
| Depth (Inches): | 13/16" |
| Weight (lbs): | .46 lbs |
| Power Supply: | 24 VAC +/-10% 50/60 Hz 1.5 VA |
| Ambient Conditions: | <90% RH non-condensing Indoor Use Only 32 to 122°F |
| Control: | Microprocessor PI Control |
| Enclosure Type: | J |
| Floor Sensor Compatible: | Yes |
| Sensors: | NTC Thermistor, 10 k ohm @ 77°F |
| Relays: | 24 V (ac) 2 A-Latching |
| Approvals: | CSA C US FCC ICES |
| Slab/Floor Setting Range: | 34 to 122°F |
| Humidity Control: | No |
| Wireless: | No |
Ideally the sensor should be as close to the floor surf ace as possible. From below, a slot could possibly be routed/ cut into the subfloor (below wood floor) to accommodate the sensor. I have seen a number of installs that the installers have ran a tube for the sensor and wire in the event the sensor fails. I would also insulate under the sensor to attempt to make sure the reading is closer to the floor temp compared to the basement temp. ~Bill
I installed mine in a small hole under the tiles in the center of the floor above a joist so it is far away from a pex line. I think if the tile is already down, then carefully drill a shallow hole half way between the pex lines, maybe drill into the corner where the floor joist and the plywood meet. You don't want the heated air from the heat in the cavity under the floor to affect the sensor.
I installed this thermostat with a "staple up" under floor system with aluminum plates. I have tile floors and installed the temp sensor in between the tiles in one of the grout lines, then grouted over it. The sensor works fine and I get accurate floor readings of the surface temp.
I also used this thermastat with radiant under my hardwood floors. After moving my floor sensor here and there I came to the conclusion that the floor sensor is best used on floors with large thermal mass like concreat slabs. I had best resalts using the built in air sensor only. Hope this helps.
We actually installed ours UNDER the floor in between two radiant panels. It is probably not the correct placement but it works fine.
I would install it between the flooring and the subfloor. The goal is to limit the temperature of the flooring material itself. The space under the subfloor where the radiant panels are located will run significantly hotter. Brian
Good question. Not really sure. I guess you could drill it into the floor between two of the plates???
This thermostat should be able to replace your existing thermostat, but it is unlikely that the same floor sensor would work with both of them.
You must send power to this unit (i.e. it cannot be battery-powered).
Yes, you will need a separate thermostat for each zone. This is a low-voltage, programmable unit that is compatible with a slab sensor (included).
Yes, they are more or less the exact same thing. Tekmar manufactures the Uponor models as well.
These two items are very similar, but they are not exactly alike. The Setpoint 511 is priced higher and has more features.
I finally received an answer from Tekmar after I asked this question here: "Essentially they are the same stat with minor differences: The Uponor/Wirsbo 511 does not have a preprogrammed schedule, only has one AUX sensor input, and no remote temp monitoring setting" So, contrary to the other answer, it appears the Tekmar 510 has more features, and is less expensive.
Unfortunately, Uponor only offers the manual that is included with the thermostat.
We would recommend that you use a Tekmar 072 (or 073) sensor. These have been designed to function when submerged in liquid.
These sensors are designed to be placed in the concrete slab, not directly in the tubing.
You can, but you would get a more accurate reading if you install the sensor in the floor.
No, they are not. This is a low voltage unit.
You can if you use a power relay. The 501 triggers the relay and the relay trigers the electric elements. You still need 24 volts to power the 501 and the power relay would have to have a 24 volt coil with contacts properly rated for the load.