| Length (Feet): | 300' |
|---|---|
| Size: | 1" |
| Shape: | Coil |
| Material: | PEX-AL-PEX |
| Grade: | PEX-AL-PEX |
| Color: | Orange |
| Tubing Type: | PEX-AL-PEX |
| Fitting System Compatibility: | PEX-AL-PEX Compression |
| Warranty: | 25 Year |
| Application: | Heating |

You would need two PAP-0500M adapters, a TBNL1-08, and a chamfering tool with a for 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX. You could use a copper x female NPT adapter and a PAP-0500M fitting for connections to copper pipe.
"If this is for a radiant application - in a wall or under a floor .. my recommendation is to replace the loop. You do not want to splice with any connector that reduces the flow inside the tube. Outside-only connectors like SharkBite are fine but not suitable for in-wall/in-floor applications." Vivek Bhatnagar <http://www.ampericon.com> http://www.ampericon.com
You can splice the line by just cutting out a short piece of the 1/2" pipe and add a coupling. I know this has a fitting in the line. We usually use water proof tape and tape the fitting and this works well. I think we use Monster water proof tape. When we need to connect to copper, we put a 1/2" female compression copper fitting on the copper line then us a 1/2" male adapter, connect this to the 1/2" female copper compression fitting, then push the pipe into the 1/2" male adapter.
Please refer to the blog post at the link below. http://www.blog.pexsupply.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-pex-al-pex/
The pex-al-pex has a layer of aluminum wrapped around it and then another coat of pex over it so it gives better heat transfer properties and a totally impervious oxygen barrier as NO oxygen can pass through the aluminum.
Tubing with oxygen barrier typically has a layer of Aluminum embedded in it. This layer makes the tubing impervious to gases as well as liquids. Theoretically, this minimizes the intrusion of oxygen into a closed loop system. Manufacturers of cast iron boilers typically specify this kind of tubing in order to honor their warranties on the life span of the boiler.
In a nut shell, Oxygen barrier tubing is used for radiant heating systems, because the metal leaches out of the boilers and is quite reactive with the water in the system. The oxygen barriers slows this process. The pex/al/pex tubing is much better as it completely eliminates this leaching process. The TIG welded tube does does not allow any degradation of the water in the system.
Same stuff this just uses alu as the oxygen barrier. We use 1" and 1/2" that heat a 30X40 shop heats the house and dose the hot water for the house. when the pool is open it also heats the pool. I do know you have to use the good watts fittings that have the double o ring that go inside the tubing and a compression ring on the outside. I like the fittings if they ever leak i just change the o rings and it's good to go only had 2 fittings leak and it was because the o ring got pinched when it was installed.
No, you need the special fittings Sent from Windows Mail
NO. Shark bite seals on the outside whereas Pex al pex seals on the inside and diameters are different.
Rifeng 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX has a .472" inside diameter and a .63" outside diameter.
should be the same as copper tubing or real close
5/8" OD 1/2"ID
Biggest problem I see with this plan is thermal conductivity. If the dome structure is well insulated it will probably work but would work much better if the pex was buried about two inches in a concrete slab and the bricks (Or better yet half thick pavers with a high thermal conductivity rating) were set into that.
It could work .. You would need to ensure some precautions are followed: 1) the flooring needs a thermal break from the ground. A min of 2" closed cell foam board with tongue & groove locked seams. Wouldn't hurt to tape seams also. 2) center feed the floor loops - run insulated 1.5" pipe to center and manifold to multiple 1/2" loops from there. 3) do heat loss calcs to ensure heat exchanger and heat source are up to the task. Sent from my iPhone
yes
I'm pretty sure if you check the specs you'll find this product has an oxygen barrier. I like it since it retains its shape once bent. It is conceivable it could also be located in a slab with a metal detector since it has a layer of aluminum. Sent from my iPad
yes it's the AL part.
Yes, it has an oxygen barrier.
It's vinyl coated aluminum, so I would say it is. We used it for hydronic floor heating directly under a new wood floor. But we did put a vapor barrier between the tubing and the underneath floor surface.
We do not carry and type of PEX products that are approved for use with natural gas.
Hello, PEX or AL PEX is cetainly not allowed for NG but there are other choices, Annealed L or K coppers, Iron piping. CK local codes. sincerely Paul Delaney
I have used this with 130 Psi air and have had no problems. as long as it passes local code i see no reason you couldn't use this as long as your using the right o ringed fittings.
It depends on the flow you need. 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX can handle up to about 2.5 gallons of fluid per minute.
Lots of math. The smaller the tubing the lower the flow rate in gallons per minute. The temperature differential between the holding tank or boiler and the area to be heated. How cold does it get in your area? How well insulated is the house? Lots of variables. Number of BTU's per gallon, per minute, based on temperature differential, etc. OR There is software you can buy for planning a heating system. OR Just install 1/2" pex 12" on centers in the slab (or 16" if you are going under the sub-floor) and adjust the temperature and flow rate later to keep the room as warm as you like it. The bigger the tubing the more flow and the more BTU's can be transferred to the living space in a given amount of time. The variables are many and you have to spend some time to figure this out.
Assuming you're using compression PEX-AL-PEX fittings, the easiest way to connect a line of 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX to a 1/2" line of PEX would be to use part PAP-0500M along with something like part H040500 or part U072 (depending on what type of PEX connection you plan to use).
James, buy two 1/2" brass manifolds at the plumbing supply store; one for inflow and one for outflow. They come with 4, 6, 8 etc. ports on each and the tubing is crimped on with 1/2" Pex brass rings. (I used pex-al-pex) You can borrow or buy crimpers at home depot. You don't want connectors outside this manifold. Connectors could fail or leak somewhere inconvenient. The manifold sits in the utility room near your pump and heat source. Kris
Why not just use pex-al-pex for the whole system? I did. Don't forget to insulate under and on the sides of your slab with thick styro-foam and plastic so you don't get thermal and moisture leak.
PEX-AL-PEX would likely be covered under PEX tubing certification programs offered by most manufacturers.