| Features: | Gauge |
|---|---|
| Size: | 1" |
| Material: | Forged Brass |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 230 |
| Flow Capacity (Cv): | 2.3 |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 20 |
| Body Pattern: | 3-Way |
| Temperature Range (F): | 85°F - 176°F |
| Connection Method: | Press |
| Connection Type: | Press x Press |
| Lead Free: | Yes |
| Standards Met: | ASSE 1017 |
| Application: | Point of Source |
The TACO instructions say it can be used in any position. I mostly use them with the outlet horizontal, as my piping and access work out best that way.
It should be hot and return piped to the valve, if they are reversed it should still work but the dial would also be reversed hot direction would be lower temperature. Turn it down to get hotter water etc.
The question is whether or not the 'output' is affected by adjusting the metering valve control.. Think of it this way- The old water is partially depleted of heat and needs to be revitalized by NEW hotter water in order to reach the intended design temp. I assume that a thermometer has been installed on the OUTPUT leg of each valve? There should have been. You can try adjusting the valve in order to determine the effect of however much adjustment is made by noting changes in the temperature out while the circulator is in operating mode that is. Good luck- John, ****@***.***
Short answer, no. But, with the unions and the fact that it is symmetrical you should be able to rotate it 180 degrees, reconnect, and be good. The valve works much like a thermostat in a car, the heat needs to be on the right side of the temperature sensor to open/close the hot supply and do the job.
That is correct, the valve requires at least 1gpm in order to operate. If the low flow fixture runs at less than that it will not work correctly.
As long as the threads on the union match the threads on the valve you do not need them. The copper pieces come with it so if you do not already have unions in place then you have them to install.
It does not. If you need a check valve, you would either need to install one in-line or use a circulator pump with an integral check valve.
The cartridge may have failed. You may want to try replacing the cartridge (part 5002-006RP).
I had the same problem with this valve in the past. Probably too many sediments in the water. You can try taking it apart, pretty easy to do, and inspect and clean the inside. Should do the trick. If you don't have a sediment filter on your water line, it may be a good idea to install one. That is my plan for this summer.
All the documentation we have on this valve is listed under the 'Manuals' tab.
Please see the attachment: http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/related_links/water/amx_300/sell/63_9876.pdf
The part number for the O-ring gaskets is 5002-002RP. This should work for your existing valve as well.
Customer Care Answered this question for the o-rings stating to order 5002-002RP. I did, those are the 3 o-rings that attach to the hot/cold inputs and mixed water output. You probably want to order them and replace them anyway if you remove the valve. I asked Taco and they said to order part 5002-005RP which PexSupply.com also carries. I have a leaky value, pulled it apart today and see that 5002-002RP are the three gaskets on the inputs/output. Part 5002-005RP is a non-standard part to I am waiting to get it 2-3 weeks. I may just order a whole new valve.
This unit does not run on power. It is a thermostatic (manual set) valve.