
| Application: | Heat Only |
|---|---|
| Stages: | 1 Heat |
| Programmability: | Non-Programmable |
| User Interface: | Push Button |
| Mount: | Vertical |
| Power Method: | Hardwired |
| Voltage: | 24V Low voltage |
| Operating Voltage: | 24 VAC +/-10% |
| Wiring: | Two-Wire |
| Color: | White |
| Height: | 5" |
| Length: | 2.72" |
| Depth (Inches): | 0.91" |
| Max. Load: | 1.3A at 24 VAC |
| Display Range: | 32 to 99°F |
| Resolution: | 1° Displayed 0.25° Calculated |
No, each is an individual setting per room area. No added wires to allow an automation set up. Power into it and power out to open and close the valve when temp setting is met. Charles Chambers Southwest Border Region DHS\CBP\OAM Albuquerque Office Via Blackberry
Not directly they are way too complex sampling system for radiant heat. The controller they are tied to might be able to tie into home automation system. Keep in mind if your using radiant heat you can’t just run it up and down without causing thermo shock. The thermostat have a logarithmic differentiation program built in to prevent this.
I do not believe so it is a good thermostat but very simple one.
The answer is both. The t-stat will be in PWM mode when the room temp is between 1-3 degrees below it's set point. This allows the t-stat to bring the temp up slowly to avoid overshooting the target. If the temp is 1 degree off, it will be in differential mode to quickly satisfy the demand. If it is more than 3 degrees off it will also be differential mode because it knows it has a long way to go to satisfy the demand. I have 6 of these in my house and they work well.
Get an electronic mixing valve with outdoor reset. Sent from my iPad
The only way to prevent your overshoot is to install an automatic mixing valve with outdoor reset. This will adjust the water temp based on actual outdoor temp. Something like this would do the trick http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-I075C3R-1-3-4-3-Way-Outdoor-Reset-I-Series-Mixing-Valve-w-Sensor-5203000-p
This is a very simple thermostat. And works very well. You have to be careful in using it as you have to remember that you are dealing with stored heat and it takes time to cool of a room as well as heating it up. The internals of this T-stat is designed for radiant heat
Yes, this product is extremely easy to adjust AND it is (in my opinion) as accurate as any thermostat on the market. However, as you probably already know, radiant heat systems do not respond rapidly to thermostat setpoint changes; that is to say, most radiant (in-floor) heating systems provide greater homeowner satisfaction if the setpoint is set and left alone....unless you're out of the home for a long period of time, at which time you would be advised to adjust the temperature setpoint to a more economical setpoint, as long as no one will be in the building. That being said, give the system adequate time to respond to the normal setpoint after your return. I hope this helps...
Hi, sorry for the delay. These units are very responsive and I have had no problems in three years (I have four of them). The only thing I don't like about them is there in no on/off switch. We turn them all the way down in the off season (59 degrees) but if you get a 55 degree night and want to sleep with the windows open you get a heat call. I could just disconnect the 12V but our pump needs to periodically run so I just let it run. Who designs things like this and never uses them? Hope this helps. Todd
Slabs can continue to get hotter even after the circulator shuts down. This thermostat uses pulse-width-modulation technology to turn off the circulator earlier to prevent this from happening. Slab sensor thermostats, like Uponor's 501s, are another option.
Even if you install a floor sensor, the same problem exists: heating the floor up to a set temp. then turning off the pump, does not equal heat ceases to heat the room. The entire floor is essentially a heat source. It will continue to give off heat until the floor temp is equal to the room temp. Trying lowering the demand for heat to 62 or 65 and see if you don't find this to be a comfortable room temp. 70 is pretty hot for radiant.
This thermostat is not compatible with a slab sensor, but you can use Uponor's A3041501. Its floor sensor works with Warmboard panels.
No that stat will not work with sensor. You will need a 511 or a stat that has inputs for a floor sensor. You can use a sensor on warm board if you cut a channel out for the sensor and wire and seal it back in under finished floor. Don't locate sensor directly next to any tubing or you will get false readings.
Floor thermos are better for vanity heat, eg. A warm bath floor. Recommend turning your boiler heat temp down. I have mine running at 130 degrees and it only over shoots by 1 degree. Radiant is slow heat but consistent.
The first things I would check are these. The easy ones. Where is the thermostat situated? How quickly does the thermostat/controller react. If you have the thermostat reading the air 5.5 ft above the floor (normal height for forced air), the temperature will continue to rise even after the boiler is stopped unless the pumps are stopped as well. Since I do not know the type of boiler you have nor how your pumps are set up, I will assume the boiler is heating to max temperature so room will continue to be heated until the thermostat hits 65, but the floors are warmer than 65 so the temperature will continue to rise especially if the pump isn't stopped. The installation should have taken into consideration the insulation type along with the building envelope and the sqft of openings in the heated area. This calc would determine the BTUs required for heating the space. It's possible you have oversized your system.
Given the way this problem is described, it seems like one of two most likely causes: 1. The two thermostats are cross-wired, connected to the pump of the other zone. Unless there has been rewiring work since this worked properly, this seems unlikely. 2. There is an obstruction in the zone that controls the living room. For item 2, many systems have a zone pump and a primary pump. The primary would come on when there is a call for heat on any zone. The zone pump helps direct the heat to where it needs to go. If the primary pump is on but the zone pump is blocked, it's possible the water would circulate in an adjacent zone (the bedroom) even though the bedroom pump is not running. I'd suggest check the pumps and see which pumps are powered on when this problem is occurring. Also, for a pump that is powered on, check that the radiant line in and line out are both hot. If line in is hot and line out is cold yet the pump is powered on, the problem is in the pump itself.
Please find the information you request in the product manual below: http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1286975873009/40450_PROD_FILE.pdf
I would think a room thermostat would give a much more consistent room temperature. I have three room thermostats one for each of three zones and am very happy with it.
It maybe that simple yes. Your comfort is closely tied to the temperature your head feels, both from radiation (structure temperature) and convection (air temperature). In cold weather, while the floor is warm, both the walls and the ceiling are likely to be significantly cooler, which will not only cool the air, but radiate cold to your head. In milder weather the warmer structure will require significantly less heat to be provided through the floor (a cooler slab) to be comfortable. Another factor is the amount of air circulation between the floor an the rest of the structure. A ceiling fan can significantly increase the transfer of heat from the floor to the rest of the structure, however an air temperature sensor is still recommended.