| Number of Outlets: | 7 |
|---|---|
| PEX Size: | 1/2" |
| Supply Size: | 1" |
| Supply Connection: | BSP |
| Loop Thread: | EK20 |
| Material: | Stainless Steel |
| Application: | Heating |
| Fitting System Compatibility: | PEX Compression |
| Tubing Compatibility: | PEX |

We sell the MP182 pressure test kit that works with all Rifeng manifolds.
which ever kit matches the pipe threads on the manifold. Pressure kit threads in where main water supply and returns go in.
I built my own with with fittings and a standard threaded pressure gauge. Sent from my iPhone
Connect a pressure gauge c/w with nipple to inflate your lines. With a compressor inflate lines to a low pressure i.e. 25 psi and let it sit for a couple of days. No pressure loss, no leaks, then fill system
The included ball valves have 1" female NPT connections. From here you can use a male NPT x PEX, copper, etc. fitting. You would need BSP fittings if for some reason you choose not to use the ball valves.
This particular manifold comes with 1/2" pex connectors. They are very easy to assemble and connect to the manifold. Cut tube to length, slide compression nut over pex, slide compression ferrule over pex, insert barb adapter into pex, and slide into manifold. Slide nut and ferrule up to manifold and tighten. Be careful when sliding adapter into manifold, it has an o-ring on it that can be damaged if you do not slide the adapter straight in to the manifold opening. It is really very easy. If you are using a size other than 1/2", the manifolds are available seperately, and you can pick the adapter size that fits your tubing. Make sure you order the appropriate number of connectors.Good Luck
They can, but you can also use MP124 caps or attach a small run of PEX between the supply and return.
No and maybe- only the returns have individual shutoffs but you could buy a cap or plug a short hose on the non active supply port and just use one loop for now
Yes, you could actually take a small section of pex tubing and go out the supply and back in the return in lieu of trying to find a shutoff for the 2 ports.
Only the supply one can be shut down, which if nothing is running through the valve, nothing can come out of it either! This is a good way to go for future additions! Gary
I have done this - I have 2 unused ports for future expansion and I just keep them completely closed.
Yes, you should be able to make this work. You would need to attach short lengths of pex to the unused ports to seal the system. Then the metering valve on the supply manifold can be used to completely shut off the flow through the unused loops until they are needed.
Yes u can turn the flow off with the white caps and the wrench that comes with the flow meter, just turn each site glass until it closes. That is al so how you adjust the water flow.
Yes you can shut off individual loops not in use. I would recommend installing a short length of pex and capping it in case you open the vulvae accidentally
I'm not sure but the flow valves only work on one side of the manifold. You could just attach a small length of PEX(3-4 inches) and cap it. When time came around replace it with a full loop,
Yes, Rifeng manifolds are compatible with any standard PEX tubing (including ThermaPEX).
It's the same one that I used with thermapex. I had no issues. Looks nice, works fine. Dan
You cannot connect 3/4" PEX to the distribution loops of Rifeng manifolds, but you can connect 3/4" PEX at the supply and return. The included shut-off valves have 1" standard female pipe thread. To attach 3/4" PEX here, use one of the following connectors based on the PEX tools you're using: U139 (SharkBite), H037510 (crimp/clamp), or LF4527510 (ProPEX).
It appears you have ¾ pex ran for supply and return and you want to go to a ½” manifold system. There are ¾” to ½” reducers available. I obtained my brass reducers from my local big box lumber company from the plumbing department.
Yes there are as I also have 3/4 pec supply and return. I do believe I had to specify sizes of all adapters and add as a separate item on the Order. pfaudette
Flow meters are on the supply (red) side of the manifold.
Red(flow meters) is on the supply(hot) side
These flow meters must go on the supply side. They will not function on the return side.
The flow meters will be on the supply side, after the circulator, and before the isolation valve.
Flow meter should be on the supply side. Note you can swap the headers so the supply is on top.
supply side you have to regulate and balance the flow on the return side
Flow meters should be on the supply side. When the actuator is energized on the return side you will get a flow indication as soon as it occurs.
We would recommend that you unscrew the manifolds from the included bracket and switch them around.
I don't know for sure but as each connection can be opened and closed independently I suppose it could. I think you need to ask the manufacturer to be sure though.
Each manifold is held to the bracket by 2 screws. It is easy to switch the return and supply manifold positions on the bracket.
No the flow meters won t work
The manifold ends can be swapped left to right. The manifolds can be separated from the mounting strap and flipped so the supply is above the return. That is what I did, and I inverted the manifolds so the pex leads out the top. Inverted does cause the flow meters to not function properly however.
I would say no because then you wouldn't be able to control the "gallons per minute flow" Sent from my iPhone
can't reverse flow.
I think you can take manifold apart and reverse the supply and return if needed. Sent from my iPhone
No, you would not do that as the flow meters would not work and you would not get flow. You can easily swap the supply and return manifolds as they are just mounted in a rubber strap with a screw clamp holding it in place. I have mine mounted with the supply on top and the return on bottom. Very nice manifold.
You can, not sure if flow adjustments will still work properly.
Those are the most important pieces. You also may need a thermostat and zone valve control, as well as a mixing valve/air eliminator (assuming you're using an existing heat source). Other miscellaneous parts you may need include bend supports, fittings for the supply and return of the manifold, a PEX cutting tool, flanges for the circulator, and a pressure test kit to attach to the manifold.
Guessing they are 2"-3" deep. Plan on mounting them on x 2x4 mounted to the wall (+1.5") to allow for plumbing connections and shut off valves to rotate.
4" depth Sent from my iPhone
With the mounting bracket it stands about 3.5" to the face
The top manifold is 1 1/2 inches and the bottom manifold is 3 inches.
3"
vertical is 8-1/2” center-to-center from wall out: upper manifold is 1-1/4” to center and lower manifold is 2-1/2” to center Hope this helps!
Manifold is 3 1/4" deep, but if you mount the temp gauges facing out it will require another inch (4 1/4"). Rich
3 inches in the bracket.
The Rifeng two-loop manifold will work with Wirsbo tubing, but you will need to buy the proper fittings separately along with an RHM02 manifold (rather than getting the package that includes the 1/2" fittings). MA-58P fittings work with 5/8" PEX, and MA-58PAP fittings work with 5/8" PEX-AL-PEX.