| Warranty: | 18 Months |
|---|---|
| Material: | Cast Iron |
| Amperage: | 1.75 |
| Application: | Heating |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 125 |
| Type: | Pump |
| Horse Power: | 1/12 |
| Connection Size: | 3/4" 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-33 |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 33 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 8 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-8 |
| Hertz: | 60 |
| Phase: | 1 |
| Max Temp (F): | 225°F |
| RPM: | 1725 |
| Connection Type: | Flanged x Flanged |
Yes,this pump may be used with 1-1/4 pipe. The pump will adapt to different sizes of pipe using flanges. You will need to purchase the 1-1/4 flange set here: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-101003-1-1-4-Bell-Gossett-Iron-Body-Pump-Flange-pair-3808000-p
Yes rotate only the casing on the pump
18 months from the installation date or 36 months from date code on the pump.
The pump is generic, so you have to buy the flanges also . They go from ¾-1 ½ I believe. When I replaced my pump I had flanges on the pipes already, but I had to replace them because they were in there since 1963 and they changed the style. It now comes with a O ring instead of a gasket.
Here's a document regarding that specific pump. It includes a parts diagram. They also include pump oil but you may have to buy the flanges separately. good luck ! Barry
Last I remember it comes with the pump two rubber gaskets and a tube of lubricating oil.
Everything huh need to install minus the tools. I purchased as a replacement.. Easy install been running great this is the third winter cycle of use.
The pump comes with bolts and the right amount of oil for the initial lubrication. Assuming you are replacing the same pump all you need to do (after drainingthe boiler) is take the old one out and slide the new one in, hook up electrical and oil. Some installers prefer to leave the old pump housing to cut down on installation time.
Here's what I can tell you. We have 2 of these and they are supported by the boiler fittings. We've been using these pumps for many years (over 20) and have not had a problem regarding the weight. I see no additional support brackets on our system. However, it's been my experience that when you go to replace the pump an extra pair of hands would make the job a lot easier. The weight at the motor end will make the replacement more difficult if attempted by one person. Good luck !
My B&G 100 motor is supported solely by the pump fittings as well. It was professionally installed, in my home, in 1997. In 2011 I replaced the pump portion because of some high pitch noises on startup and shutdown. The motor is still going strong, and the pump is quiet again. One nice thing about having the motor in this configuration is that if I overfill the motor oil inlets, the excess oil drops to a pan a few inches below, keeping it off the motor housing.
Hi Phil, I've replaced the same pump on my system. It has 3/4" pipe that it attached to and I had no issues with the motor being to heavy for the regular boiler fittings.
I had the same concern when replacing my pump but assumed that if the old pump was supported by the fittings only, the new one should be fine - and it is. On my boiler the connection to the boiler is cast iron - this takes the weight and some torque when the motor starts. The fitting above is a iron flange attached to copper pipe - this also takes some of the torque. I don't think adding support is needed.
I've sometimes thought the same question. I've included the manual for the pump but sorry to say that they don't get too specific regarding how much oil is excessive. check Section 6.1 Proper Oiling Procedures It states that you can use either SAE 20 OR 10w-30 weight oil. Generally, I would oil these monthly with 6 or 8 drops of oil as it gets constant usage. I also keep a spare pump on hand. It's just not worth my time to run around to find a replacement. We have 132 condo units here and I need to keep the hot water recirculating at all times. Hope this helps. Barry
Just a few drops 8-10 will be good every start of use and after. Yes I always use 3in 1 oil
If you follow the recommended oiling frequency you will be fine unless you have a leak. If you have a little too much oil it shouldn't harm the pump but might make a mess. Too much oil can harm the motor or even cause a fire. Too little will harm the pump motor and bearings so if in doubt put a few (but only a few) extra drops in. I would not use 3 in 1 because it is too light and the moving parts will wear faster. Listen carefully to the pump when it is broken in and well lubricated. If you notice a change in vibration or noise try a few drops of oil. If the noise goes away you know you are low and need to top up.
Hi Bren, Before the season of winter. Just follow the Manufacturer instruction to lubicate the pump with the specific oil(B & G). Can buy at Home Depot. Don't use 3 in 1 oil because will damage the pump bearing.
It’s hard to tell how much oil is in the pump. But you should be following the lubrication procedure in the manual. If you have never put oil the pump and it has been in service for some time add about ½ to 1 oz. of oil. An SAE 20 (non-detergent) is recommended or 10W-30 oil may be substituted. Don’t use 3-in-1 oil. Your local hardware store will have the correct oil. It will be in a container that looks like 3-in-1. Here is the link to the manual. http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/***.****85/51150_PROD_FILE.pdf
I installed the pump for the same reason (leaking), but did not replace the motor (10yrs old and still going strong). Instructions do come with the motor and pump, but they are very general. YouTube probably has something better. The most complicated plumbing I've done is replace my water heater, and replacing this pump was easier than that. Here are a couple things I noted while doing this repair 2 yrs ago: 1) turn off the water to the pump 2) turn off the electricity to the pump motor 3) place a drip pan under the pump to catch the small amount of water left in the pump and pipes 4) after installation, fully oil the pump with the specified oil before using it for the first time, the motor too if installing that as well 5) don't over tighten the connections at first, wait until the water is turned on and the pump is working, then if there are drips/leaks start tightening until they stop. This may take a day or two of observation. At least that's how I did it and I haven't had drips, or any other issues since the install. Hope that helps.
It's pretty simple. I had like 4 bolts on the old one and just put the new one in... Then fill with the recommended and provided oil amounts.
Nah, its four bolts and two gaskets - easy going.
Very easy to install make sure you shut off water supply and drain system. Clean flanges very well and sand with fine emery cloth. Hope this is helpful Stan S
You might be able to fix it. Various parts are available for this pump. You might want to look at parts 118681LF, 118368, and P04080.
The question is where is your pump leaking from. In the majority of cases the pump can be repaired. The question of cost depends on the nature of the repair required and labor cost from the supplier.
It would be tough to say which option would be less expensive, but there are plenty of replacement parts available for Series 100 circulators, including the bearing assembly (part 118844LF).
We see no reason to replace it if the pump has been maintained properly and is still working.
If your 13-year old pump is working fine, with no problems, I wouldn't replace it yet. It's not uncommon for these pumps to last 20 years or more.