Connection Size: | 3/4" |
---|---|
Connection Type: | Threaded |
Type: | Pump Flanges |
Material: | Cast Iron |
Used With: | UP 15 Series Pumps (Some) UP 26 Series Pumps (Some) UP 43 Series Pumps (Some) UPS 15 Series Pumps (Some) |
Yes, this flange would be compatible with the UP15-42FR pump.
The correct gasket to use with this flange is sku 510179. The gasket size is not listed, it is simply the gasket that is the correct size for the GF 15/26 flange type.
yes
Don't use iron or steel pump flanges in a potable water system, as they will rust. I would use bronze, brass or stainless steel. If you truly need "lead free", then only use a product that is officially marked as such.
The bolt holes are 3 1/4 for a 1" flange Sent from my iPhone
If Grundfos, 3 1/4".
The Grundfos pump flanges measure 3- 5/32" center to center on the bolt holes.
My cast iron flanges are 1" IPS . The dimensions are; 4 3/16" end to end. Width is 2 5/8". Body thickness is 9/16". There is a boss surrounding the 1" IPS threaded hole that adds 5/16" to the body thickness in the area surrounding the center hole. The boss is 1 3/8" in diameter. The bolt holes are 3 1/8" center to center. The bolt holes are cast in place, tapered about 1/2" in diameter on the pump side, 9/16 on the pipe side. The holes easily clear the 7/16" typically used in pump installations. Good Luck
Most residential circulator pumps work with standard flanges that are interchangeable among brands. These flanges will work with any Taco or Bell & Gossett circulator that uses standard flanges.
Yes, pumps and flanges are interchangeable. I prefer flanges with isolation valves if you do not already have a means to isolate the pump. Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®
Yes, all the flanges interchange. Some are just a flat steel flange and some are cast steel, they both work fine.
Yes they fit Carl Filomio Sirina Protection Systems Corp. www.SirinaFire.com
Yes they are same as B&G
As long as the inside diameter and bolt holes are the same size and match up to each other you should be fine!
I have used these Flanges with copper for 15 years with no problems
After 5 years of use, I've not seen any dielectric corrosion. You can also use brass, it's cheaper. Robert.
You will need to use a steel nipple and a dielectric union if you want to transition to copper. C. Scott Cole, PE LEED AP
Although it is true that iron and copper do create a galvanic corrosion couple, in this example, it does not pose a problem. Here are the reasons: The galvanic potential of iron and copper are very close to each other so the potential for corrosion is low. Cast iron contains silicon that makes cast iron significantly more corrosion resistant than an iron based alloy such as common steel. Secondly the water in the system is self contained and thus over time becomes depleted of oxygen. Oxygen is necessary for corrosion. I have a 105 year old house with cast iron radiators and brass valves. In the 105 years there is no sign of corrosion of the iron anywhere near the brass valve.
The other option is to use brass nipples.
You need to use Brass nipples (not copper). This will eliminate the corrosion. I hope this helped You.
Yes you need a threaded connection. Buy a 1" male threaded copper or brass adapter from pex supply to make the transition to sweat.
Use a 1" MPT copper threaded coupling. Pexsupply has those.
They are a 1 inch iron pipe tread. You can use a simple male adaptor. Of a brass nipple or gal nipple. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphon
Yes, you will need two of the item below. I copied and pasted the below info from PEX supply. First, solder the fitting onto the copper pipe. Then take Teflon tape or pipe dope and put it on the copper threads. Put the two bolts that come with the pump flange thru the flange and put the nuts onto the bolts. Then take a long piece of steel pipe or pipe wrench and put it in-between the two bolts to tighten the pump flange onto the copper fitting. Make sure you have a wrench on the copper fitting to keep from twisting the copper pipe into a bowtie. LOL. If you put the copper fitting into the flange first and then try to solder it the flange acts like a heat sink and it will take a long time to get the copper hot enough for the solder to flow. Do not forget to clean and flux both parts of the solder joint before you try to solder it. If you are using the pump on a hot water heating system, you do not need to get the flange very tight, as you will be working with low system pressure. If the pump is for a domestic hot water return loop, you need to get it tighter. Energy saving tip. If you have a hot water heating system try to keep the pressure as low as possible as the higher the pressure the more heat AKA money it takes to get water hot. .433 PSI will raise a column of water one foot. Therefore, if your radiator is ten feet above the pressure gage that you are reading the pressure needs to be 4.33 PSI but take it up to 5 PSI just to make sure. This might be TMI but being one of those green people, I could not resist. Mike _1" C X Male Adapter_ (http://www.pexsupply.com/Cello-WP4-16-1-Copper-X-Male-Adapter-1024000-p) * SKU: WP4-16 * Brand: Cello
All you need is a 1" copper x 1" threaded male adapter. Pex has one: SKU WP4-16. Also, most any home center should stock them as well. Good Luck!
I found one at a hardware store. 1" threaded copper connector to what ever your main system copper pipe is. You will need reducers to get down to your main system is. Mick
You need a male threaded adapter. Here is the piece you need: http://www.pexsupply.com/Cello-WP4-16-1-Copper-X-Male-Adapter-1024000-p
https://www.pexsupply.com/Copper-x-Male-Adapters-138000
If your Flanges are 1" Cast Iron. I would use a Brass 1" nipple, then a 1" female threaded X 1" solder adaptor. Then go from there. The Brass nipple will stop the electrolysis,(corrosion) between Cast Iron and Copper. Fittings can be found at ( Lowe's,Mennards, Home Depot, etc). I hope this helps.
The flange is 1/2in thick, 2 1/2in wide,4 1/2in long, Bolt holes are1/2in,diameter and 3 1/4in center to center apart. With a female 1in NPT (Natoinal Pipe Thread) in the center. I hope this helps you.
My cast iron flange dimensions are; 4 3/16" end to end. Width is 2 5/8". Body thickness is 9/16". There is a boss surrounding the 1" IPS threaded hole that adds 5/16" to the body thickness in the area surrounding the center hole. The boss is 1 3/8" in diameter. The bolt holes are 3 1/8" center to center. The bolt holes are cast in place, tapered about 1/2" in diameter on the pump side, 9/16 on the pipe side. The holes easily clear the 7/16" typically used in pump installations. Good Luck