| Frequency: | 60 Hz 60 Hz |
|---|---|
| Application: | Zoning |
| Poles: | 2 |
| Material: | Cast Iron |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 145 |
| Type: | 3-Speed Pump |
| Features: | Integral Check Valve |
| Horse Power: | 1/25 |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 17 |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-17 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 19.5 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-19.5 |
| Hertz: | 60 |
| Phase: | 1 |
| RPM: | 2450 |
| Temperature Range (F): | 36°F - 230°F |
| Connection Size: | 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 3/4" |
| Connection Type: | Flanged x Flanged |
Both pumps are sized for 1/25 hp and 115 volts. We recommend confirming with a licensed plumber that these are sized out correctly for your application.
The pump would be warm to the touch and should be making some slight noise.
YOU CAN TELL IF THE PUMP IS WORKING IF IT FEELS WARM (THAT MEANS IT IS MOVING HEATED WATER THROUGH THE PUMP) AND ALSO BY PUTTING A FINGER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BLACK CIRCULAR PART TO SEE IF YOU FEEL IT VIBRATING
Without more specific information it is hard to say. There are many factors that could be affecting the system and the pump operation. Please have a plumber or technician inspect the system to see what is causing this issue.
The brochure below shows the GPM per speed: http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1249544647674/Grundfos_ups15-58fc_Product_Data.pdf Speed 1 range is 0-11, speed 2 is 0-15 and speed 3 is 0-17.5. The GPM range varies depending on the ft. of head as well.
The UPS15-58FC and UP15-58B7 are quite similar yet significantly different. The first one is 3 speed (denoted by the "S"), with flanged connection ("F"), and a check valve ("C"). The second pump is single speed (since there is no "S" following "UP"), with a bronze body ("B"), and 3/4" internal sweat connection (7). We do not recommend replacing a UPS15-58FC with a UP15-58B7 or vice versa. They each have their own specific application and are not so easily interchanged.
Yes you can up to down .down to up .left to right and right to left you only need to jeep motor horizontaly and it will run without having probleme
With my system, pumping upward always allows a constant gravity fed supply of liquid to insure the pump does not run dry. Running dry will cause seal failure.
i would check the wiring, as that is the only thing that will make a motor run
we are not given manuals for that installation
Removing the check valve will give slightly more flow, just be sure that your system does not require a check valve in the pump. If you are replacing a pump that did not have a check valve built in, then you likely don't need it. Be sure to install the new pump according to the manufacturer's instructions, and purge the air from the system.
Check valves are there to prevent backflow. If backflow is not a concern then take it out. If for no other reason, it is one less device that could cause a problem.
Hi you can run the pump with or without the check valve and it will run very well and will not be less efficient it is only to block back flow in the pump
Yes it is ok to run on high speed these pump are like universal pump they replace some other old pump they made one to fit all with the same flange and fit almost anywere they insert a control box with 3 speed to be able to run the application were it use you can check on owner manual to see the pressure you nned depend on the pump curve capabality but if it work well on hight speed let it on and enjoy the heat ..!!!!!
I have looked extensively for any indication that the multi-speed feature implies a consideration for limiting power via duty cycling, etc. when operating at higher settings and have found nothing. I believe the high speed setting (87 Watts, and less than 10% greater than the mid-speed setting) is the nominal performance configuration and that it is designed to operate continuously this way. The lower settings in the UPS series permit energy savings and quieter operation when the higher pump speed is not needed.
It's fine until it's not fine. Max flow thru 3/4" Type M copper tube is 6 gal/min. Higher than that erodes the tube. Flow should be 1 to 4 gal/min. You have unequal length zones. When sys. is running most of the water and heat flows thru the shorter zone. Running on Hi may exceed the flow rate thru the shorter zone, eroding the tube. Put in a Caleffi Circuit Balancing Valve on the short zone and set it between 1 to 4 gal min. Then adjust the pump speed setting for the second zone. Excessive noise in the baseboards indicates hi flow. It's not a simple answer. You want 1 to 4 gal/min flow above the Pressure Loss (Friction Loss) of the pipe and fittings.
Yes, using "High" as a run setting will be fine. Hazard Stewart
No problem leaving it on high if that's what works.
I have two out of six that I run on high and have not had any problems after 2 years. Just make sure you bleed all the air out of system, as that causes folks a lot of problems with the circulation. Sent from Jeff by mobile
I have run mine on all 3 settings with no adverse results.The pump draws very little electricity and will not overheat.
It is fine to use the high setting. I have been using this setting on a couple of my UPS15-58 pumps with no problem. It just uses 7 additional watts of power moving from medium to high.