| Max Pressure (PSI): | 150 |
|---|---|
| Size: | 3/4" |
| Product Type: | Air Eliminator |
| Material: | Brass |
| Application: | Heating |
| Max Temp (F): | 270°F |
| Connection Type: | FNPT x FNPT |
| Connection Method: | Threaded |
For optimal operation a single air eliminator should be installed on the main line, ideally close to the boiler outlet and before the circulator.
the bottom is where the expansion tank goes. no water actually flows thru it. it's probably not detrimental to the operation if there is a plug there. Sent from my iPhone
I see no reason you could not plug it. If memory serves, it comes with a plug. However you should have an expansion tank somewhere in the system. Sent from my iPad
I have seen it used like that in some applications with no apparent adverse effects
Ideally, you should install the spirovent where the water is at its hottest and moving its slowest. Generally this would be right after the boiler but before the circulator.
What is the pressure in the system? If all things are operating normally I don't think the expansion tank should be warm. It should not fill and empty very rapidly once the system is balanced. If it had the proper pre-charge and you have the regulator set to the normal pressure of 15 - 20 lbs. then it sounds like you don't have a problem. Not a plumber but, a well informed consumerJ
I am not in this line of work so I am not an expert I did install the radiant heating system in my house my self with the advice and guidance from the "experts" It is my understanding that the expansion tank is mostly an air bladder and only allows water to enter when the system pressure increases which should happen during the heating cycle. With that being said the tank shouldn't feel heavy like it its full of water and would probably only be hot at the inlet You may want to check the precharge pressure on the expansion tank to make sure it is compatable with your system I hope this helps you GOOD LUCK J
You know when it's working because you don't hear water moving through the piping. If you hear water sounds, that means there is still air in the piping and it needs to be properly purged. The spirovent will vent some on start up but it's main purpose is to collect the micro bubbles and vent them before they become one big bubble. As far as the tank goes it's there for water expansion not heat transfer. It may get warm over time from conduction but there is no water flowing in it to transfer heat. It has a bladder in it to separate the air from the water that's why it's lighter than the old ceiling hung tanks. Make sure your circulator is on the the supply piping and is pumping away from or down stream of the expansion tank connection. Hope this helps , Joe Please note: message attached
Check the air pressure in the bladder of the expansion tank. If this were to high, water may not be entering the expansion tank. As long as water is able to flow through the spirovent it is probably working.Good luck Peter Watson Research(Wrboilers)
I initially had much air in my system. I could hear the air come in the pipes and actually hear it release (hiss) through the spirovent. I believe mine works well. My system contains about 20 gallons of water. If you look at water expansion, 20 gallons raised from ambient (when the system was installed) to 150F would expand about a quart. A rise of 20 degrees from 140 to 160 would only expand a couple ounces. The way the tank is hung off the spirovent, once the water would expand, there would be no water exchange in and out of the tank and I would think the water would cool to ambient in the tank.
Replace or clean spirovent, install strainer in system
I'm not an expert but I use the spirovents alot and it sounds like the vent has an issue cleaning maybe the answer , and test the water supply for heavy metals mine had similar problem and I have a well and know a filter for iron
My first Spirovent lasted 17 years without issues. I replaced it after making mods to my system (installed indirect hw tank). You may have scaling that broke off the hotter parts of your boiler and settled there. You can take the spirovent apart and examine it. All you should see is a metal mesh inside. If that's not the cause, look for trapped air in the system. That's the more likely cause. Give it a good flush. I mean a high pressure hose flush!.
Jeff, I believe the rubber bladder in your expansion tank may be shot. They seem to last shorter and shorter these days and if the initial plumber did not adjust the tank pressure to match the system requirements then your expansion bladder will be flexed in the x-direction more than it should be leading to premature failure. The symptoms you described are very similar to a failure I fixed a year ago and showed the blow-off valve trickling towards the end of every boiler burn time. I don't believe it is your spirovent unless you are putting well water through your system and it is very hard water that has calcified deposits on the brushes in the spirovent.
I don't know if the spirovent is serviceable, but I would think it is the problem.
No
not sure how it would work on 3 inch pipe
I don't see a problem, I have a second one about 20 ft. away. Maybe a little redundant.
If you have a expansion tank already installed on a system you do not need another one.Spirovent just gives a guidance in general .
Dear Bill, The spirovent does not need the expansion tank coming off the bottom. This is just there as an added attachment for close-quarter systems where adding a fitting will add price and unwanted pipe length to you system. Ideally you'll want 6" to 8" inches of straight pipe to either side of the spirovent to allow your water flow to become laminar so the wire brushes in the spirovent can pickout the micro-bubbles. The question doesn't give a whole lot of details but this vent is for a hot water side of a system. This vent will not have the desired effect if placed on the cold water side of a system feed. I'm trying to read into your "fresh water" meaning here and dispell any possible misconceptions as to the use of this vent. Air extraction should always be done on the hot water side as the physical properties of heated water will readily shed air molecules while cold water will absorb it. The water piping only needs an inlet and outlet so 2 inlets are not needed. You may have to put small coin bleeders in at high points of your system if air is still a problem. A pump and 5 gallon buckets also work for trapped air. Another thought is if you are using Pex without an oxygen barrier your system will absorb a plethora of micro-bubbles as well. Good Luck and hope you get the air out!
The expansion tank is required in the system, but need not be attached to the bottom to the Spirovent, nor does the fresh water feed. While a common configuration, it is only a convenience. Just an added note, the Spirovent is well worth the extra money over other solutions. It works great!
I would just cap it
You do not need an expansion tank with a spirovent, the bottom thread is an option if you want to add the tank. I have two spirovents, one attached to an expansion tank and the other is plugged on the bottom.
Standard spirovent cannot be installed on the vertical only horizontal. They do make a vertical application spirovent that is different from the standard version
No, spirovent air eliminator due to its design, will only work when istalled horizontally as shown on the box and installation notice.
Yes, copper with a 1-1/8" outside diameter is considered 1" copper. You will most likely need to use a 1" air eliminator, although it's possible that you'll need something larger (or smaller) depending on the system's flow rate.
The simple answer is yes. Copper tube is sized on I.d. Not o.d.
1-1/8 pipe is 1 inch pipe. How do you know that this is the right size pipe for your system? You need to do the engineering and figure the GPM that goes through the Spirovent and then check the Spirovent table to determine what size vent should be used for your system. If you think that is too hard to do: you know why I think it the installed pipe might be the wrong size. The 1" vent will match your pipe.
The air eliminator does not have to be installed on top of the expansion tank, but this is the most common positioning of it. Both are necessary pieces in a closed-loop radiant system.