| System Type: | Hydronic (Water) |
|---|---|
| Size: | 1/8" |
| Material: | Brass |
| Body Pattern: | Straight |
| Application: | Heating |
| Mount: | Straight |
| Adjustability: | Non-Adjustable |
| Type: | Float-Style |
| Thread Type: | Male |
| Max Temp (F): | 240°F |
| Min Temp (F): | 140°F |
| Temperature Range (F): | 140°F - 240°F |
| Thread Size: | 1/8" |
| Max Pressure: | 150 psi |
| Max Venting Pressure (PSI): | 50 psi |
Possibly, the vent needs to be mounted vertically for it to function properly. This would serve a similar function as the existing bleed valve, only it would work automatically.
Vertically only.
Vertical I believe because they are like a float valve, all the ones I have installed have always been vertical. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
Yes, this vent needs to be mounted in the vertical position only due to the float mechanism. The only vent that I know of that can be mounted horizontally is the Taco 417 auto coin vent (never mount upside down). Please read all installation instructions and follow local codes.
bubble breaker, NO.
No! That flap is part the mechanism that detects and vents gases in the line. Sent from my iPhone
The flap protrudes from the ID of the fitting. I don't know the purpose, but don't trim it off. Just install it into the riser.
I'm not sure what he is talking about because I don't have a fitting to look at. How this valve works is there is a float inside that collects air and the float drops and lets the air out. There may be a tong of some type in the bottom to keep everything aligned and should not be removed or harmed in any way.
A little loose.
This has a float in it that lets the air out automatically, so as long as it is not leaking fluid (too loose) it should not be tightened, it should be loose.
Tighten the screw, then back it off about a half a turn.
I keep the top cap loose to allow the air to escape. I think if you tighten it, then it will not be able to vent the air. A few drops of water is normal on my system. Sent from my iPhone
Do you mean the little vent cap? The big "cap" (top of unit)? or the whole unit? In any case, I wouldn't think you would need to drain the boiler. The float inside the unit keeps water from coming out of the little vent cap when there is pressure in the system. If you catch air in the trap, the float then falls and the air comes out of the vent. The little vent cap on top should be left very loose (almost off) when in operation so the air can escape. If you close it tight, the air can't escape. The only time I would ever close that tight would be if the unit is malfunctioning somehow and water is leaking out of it (this sometimes happen when these get old). In that case you might need to close the cap tight temporarily until you can get a replacement unit. If you're talking about removing the whole top of the unit for cleaning or some kind of other maintenance, or removing the whole unit for repair or replacement, then I would just power down the boiler / circulation pump (or if possible, isolate the fitting by closing any appropriate ball valves in the zone), then just bleed off enough water to bring the system pressure down to zero before removing it so you don't get sprayed in the face with hot water. It's only an 1/8" fitting and these are usually placed near a high point in the system. You shouldn't lose much, if any, water if the system is shut down and depressurized and you're just doing a quick replacement. HTH -Mike
Indeed, there is nothing to limit the pressure. You don't necessarily need to drain the entire boiler though - if you close the auto fill valve and then open the boiler drain just enough to reduce the pressure of the water in the system, you should be able to replace the vent with only a minimal amount of water spilling out.
I replace the hy-vent yearly I don't think you should attempt to service it yourself they sell for about 6-8 dollars hope this helps.
I did not replace the hy-vent on my boiler, I replace the one above my expansion tank. When I replaced it I did not drain my system. I simply turned off the boiler and the water supply to the system. I then isolated the hy-vent as much as possible with the valves available in my system. I had minimal water loss when I removed my hy-vent. I hope this helps. Mark S. Grzesiakowski AETD Core Demo Lead Pratt & Whitney
"I assume there is nothing in it to limit the pressure if the cap is taken off? TRUE! IF you get air, fine... If you get water w/o stopping, then it is probably gummed up and needs replacing. PUT / tighten the cap back on!!!! Will I have to drain the boiler to remove the cap and service this unit?" You MIGHT be able to cool system to under 105 deg. (Find a high outlet in the system and CAREFULLY bleed off the pressure.) Then possibly, do a 'quick switch' of the parts. You MIGHT get a bit of water still, should be minimal if system is closed all over. IF you are going to shut down & bleed down consider the following. When I am replacing / re-fitting parts on our home heating system, I think back to all the mess and problems of earlier 'adventures' in home heating repairs. NOW, I tend to preemptively engineer the project to the extent of providing shut-offs (ball valves) so I can replace air vents or reliefs. ( For critical "stay open" lines , such as a relief >> RED - painted handle and Lock-WIRED open ). It costs a little more, but it gives the ability to perform hot swap-outs w/o having to drain or shut down the system. Remember, Not a lot of people work on this stuff in the summertime.
There are no replacement parts to this Hy-Vent, so the entire vent would have to be replaced if the unit is defective.
We would recommend that you use a mild soap detergent.
You can service this vent by removing the cover and cleaning/checking the float inside the unit.
There is no difference: they are the same valve. The different numbers represent dates of manufacture.