
| Material: | Cast Iron |
|---|---|
| Frequency: | 60 Hz |
| Amperage: | 0.74 |
| Application: | Heating |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 145 |
| Type: | 1-Speed Pump |
| Horse Power: | 1/25 |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 17 |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-17 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 15 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-15 |
| Hertz: | 60 |
| Phase: | 1 |
| RPM: | 2590 |
| Temperature Range (F): | 36°F - 230°F |
| Connection Size: | 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 3/4" 1" |
| Connection Type: | Flanged x Flanged |
It depends on the flow and head pressure requirements of the system. These are based heavily on the insulation quality of the house, the piping layout, and the size of system piping. You may want to find the model number of the Bell & Gossett pump in order to compare its pump curve to that of this Grundfos pump. You can also try to calculate the actual flow and head pressure requirements by using the document at the link below. http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1289252668477/41390_PROD_FILE.pdf
Most circulator pumps operate along a single pump curve. The amount of flow a pump can circulate depends on the head pressure it needs to overcome. Head pressure and flow rate have an inverse relationship. The maximum flow rating assumes that there is virtually no head pressure. Depending on the head pressure in your system, this pump may be able to provide about 8.5 GPM.
Not unless it is a multi speed pump. You could put in a ball valve and slow down the flow.
The instructions that come with that pump have very helpful pictures on how to properly install it. However, I can put into words. 1) that pump can be installed vertically or horizontally. 2) Always install this pump so you can face the motor after it it installed.. 3) As you face the motor remove the four alan head screws. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DRAINED THE WATER OUT BEFORE YOU DO THIS!!! 4) Rotate the pump so you can read the information on the end of the pump. it should say Grundfos and the pump model. The black electrical box should be on the left. 5) tighten up the four alan head screws. Paul Shay A Real Good Plumber,Inc LMP 1307 LMFS 654 B
Yes, this pump may be shut down over the summer months.
Jay, I have two of these running in my heating system and I shut them off every spring and on again in the fall. This is the most dependable part of my heating system. I have been running them for twenty years and have replaced two. Jerry
Circulation pumps are best left running continually. If the pump is left idle for long it will begin to rust and may jam, preventing restart
Go ahead and shut the pump off in the summer time. I shut mine off every spring and it starts up with no problem each fall.
I shut my pump off one spring and the next winter I turned it on and it was making noises/failed. I'm not sure of the age of the pump, nor can I say if I just left the pump run all spring/summer/fall if it would have failed anyway. After replacing my pump I now leave the pump run year round and just shut off the gas to the boiler. I open all my zones so water flows. The basement floor (55 degrees) may warm up a tad in the summer months and maybe (marginally) cool the upstairs zones. Geo-thermal cooling to some degree..
could have an air lock in the pipe
Yes there may be blockage of the pump rotor Sent from my iPhone Anthony Smits A-1 Auto Upholstery Inc.
Maybe but not if the pump is circulating cold water. If the source fluid is hot like from a solar system then it would be true. Dan
The hot pump says the motor is probably running. There are 2 other things that may be wrong. 1. the impeller may be worn out or has come loose from the shaft. 2. there may be an air lock in the circulating fluid.
speed sometimes matters but the up 15-42F also runs at 2590 and not 1600 Paul Shay A Real Good Plumber, Inc
The unit measures 6-1/2" from flange to flange.
If you mean from flange surface to flange surface, the distance is 6.5 inches.
As a general rule yes. If you have given them the model number of what is there now and they have recommended a replacement pump, that pump will come with replacement gaskets and should fit the existing flanges.
Yes. Just replace it.
Yes, you're correct. All you have to do is replace the existing pump. No need to specify flange sizes. The pump has standard flange-to-flange dimensions that ensure trouble-free retrofitting.
Dave you will need the same size flange on the pipe as the pump
Part 59896167 is the rotated flange version of this circulator. The cartridge (part G-506171 on our site) can be replaced, but there could also be air in the system that is causing the unit not to work properly.
Yes. It is repairable, you can try changing the cartridge in it or buy a whole pump, it can be turned in any direction. Sent from my iPhone
No, it's not repairable, or rather not worth repairing since the replacement cost is fairly cheap. I had one go bad after 8 years so the life span is worth buying a new one. The bearings had burned out on it so that it would hum quietly but not pump. As far as the direction of flow, just follow the arrow on the casting. Both of the flanges are the same so all you have to do is flip the motor over and it will still work. There should be a valve on either side of the pump that is turned with a large flathead screwdriver, this makes it very easy to replace. Hope this helps. RW
We wouldn't recommend it because this circulator pump is cast iron. The oxygen in present in potable water causes cast iron to rust, which can discolor and contaminate drinking water. When dealing with a plumbing system or an open heating system you should always use a bronze or stainless steel circulator.
I don't think you would want a cast iron pump in a potable water system.
For domestic hot water supply you need a bronze circulator not iron.