| Application: | Zoning |
|---|---|
| Number of Zones: | 3 |
| Network Zoning: | No |
| Heat Pump Compatible: | No |
| Stages: | 1 Heat/1 Cool |
| Auto Changeover: | Yes |
| Voltage: | 24V |
| Discharge Air Temp Compatible: | Yes |
| Emergency Heat Switch: | No |
| Resettable Fuse: | Yes |
| Individual Zone Fan Control: | Yes |
| LEDs: | Yes |
| Height (Inches): | 8.12" |
| Depth (Inches): | 1.86" |
| Width (Inches): | 8" |
| Wiring: | 18-20 Gauge Solid |
| Hertz: | 50 60 |
| Temperature Range (F): | -40°F - 165°F |
depends on what components you are using. I would double check the diagrams below to be sure. http://s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/HZ322-Wiring.pdf
EMM- 3 is compatible to hz322 just follow the instruction you will be just fine, I just completed mine it took me 15 minutes to swap from the old one to the new system I will recommend it to anybody
depends on how many accessories its controlling.
No, the True ZONE package which includes the air sensor is HZ311K .The air sensor may also be purchased separately and added to The HZ311 panel, it is part C7735A also available on our site.
HZ311 panels work with virtually any Honeywell and other brand single-stage, heat pump or multi-stage thermostats.
What you're describing could be related to the panel itself, but I wouldn't rule out the thermostat and/or the unit. When you put it to cool, does the unit or fan come on at all, or literally "nothing happens"? The first thing to do is rule out that your compressor isn't trying to kick on and triggering it's fail safe. Next you can try to determine if the thermostat is actually "clicking on" to make the call for the cool mode. If it clicks and nothing happens, it might be the panel, but it's hard to determine. Have you inspected the panel to see if there are any burn marks or anything on it?
I did for 4 zones.
I consider myself to be an "average consumer". If you're looking at buying this product, then you know what you're looking for. There are no special tools required - perhaps a small screwdiver and a pair of needle nose pliers; no special licenses required. All you have to do is connect the right wires to the right inputs. I replaced the previous zone controller, so I just labeled the wires, and colors from the old one, and made sure I had the same connections for the new one. If you screw something up, then call in the expert. It will likely be a blown 25 cent 0.5 Amp fuse that needs replacing.
I am of the personal opinion that having a professionally trained individual install any electrical based system is the best way to go. However, I purchased one of these due to an issue I had with my previous unit (which had a burn on the board). It's not an easy "DIY" project (as no electrical system should be) but it *can* be done. I would start by completely documenting everything that is already set up for your unit. Take note of the zone numbers and the dampeners being utilized. Take note of all the wiring. Take photos. Then double-check your work again. Once you've got everything documented and you've got your new panel, make sure you shut off the main breaker to your unit -- then you can go with the re-wiring. Not sure if this helps, it's sort of a vague answer but the truth is -- you can install it yourself if you have some basic DIY knowledge and you're SAFE and CAREFUL. If you're 100% sure that this panel is what you need, you could always buy the panel and have a professional install it. Good luck!
If you have a similar panel, you pretty much just move each wire one-by-one from the old slot to the new slot. There are a few digital prompts you have to program in after turning it on, but you should be able to figure it out.
yes, this is very easy to install. it is used for a system that has 2 or 3 zone dampers. a basic knowledge of the thermostat wiring and zone damper operation is required to understand the instructions included in the box. basically the thermostat will now connect to the 311 which in turn will connect to the furnace where the thermostat originally connected. the zone damper actuators will connect to the 311. you need to know if the dampers are spring-closed motor-opened or vice-versa; most honeywell dampers are held opened by a spring so that the 311 will close the zone damper that is NOT calling for heat (or cool in AC mode) hope this helps frank
If you can install a 3 way light switch or a thermostat, I would say yes. The insallation is simple; setup is more complex but the manual is very good.
I have this same zone controller model with 4 zones and two different models of thermostat (2 of each). Has been running 2 dampers that are power open/spring close and two others that are power open/power close for over two years with no problems. No clue why yours isn't working.
Honeywell has good tech support. It sounds like you have something miswired. Your power supply is the 24 volt transformer in the air handler unit. Make sure you thermostat has the common connected. Sounds like a wiring issue. Call Honeywell. They will talk you through it.
Regarding power to the thermostat: The HZ322 has a setting for panel or thermostat. Choose panel. All events are controlled by the panel if it is wired properly. Make sure you have a common connection from thermostat to panel. Regarding damper: Check wiring carefully. Also there is a setting for close or open when system is not heating/cooling. I think most want the dampers open when the heat/cool cycle is finished.
To our knowledge, Honeywell zoning panels only work with Honeywell thermostats. You may want to look at the Honeywell TH8320U1008 thermostat, which is a 2 heat/2 cool model and features a "CIRC" fan switch position option. This feature runs the fan at random intervals, about 35% of the time.
I have had the same set up for two years or so. While I am not an HVAC person, I was able to set it up and It seems to work fine, just be sure you do the set up right .
hello This is only a zone valve that works air dampers in the ducts. It will not change your refresh feature. Without a zone valve the 4 thermostat (R,W,Y,G) wires would go right to the furnace/AC unit.... your thermostat is controlling this fan refresh mode, not the furnace unit. By inserting this zone valve you would just take the 4 Tstat wires run them to the zone valve and then run 4 more wires from the zone valve to the furnace unit. In other words the Tstat wires are basically "passing thru" the zone valve to the furnace unit as far as your refresh feature is concerned. Also you might want to check the documentation that came with your Hunter Tstat as it may explain how this refresh works. frank
The manufacturer recommends HZ432 as the replacement for the TZ-3. Any instructions that are not included can be found on Honeywell's website.
All TrueZONE zone panels have red and green LED Lights for the for the zone damper position indicator. A Red LED is an indication for a closed zone, with the dampers terminals M1 to M6 powered with 24Vac. If the Damper position indicator is Green for an open damper, it means that the M1 to M4 terminals are powered with 24Vac.