
| Fuel Type: | Electric |
|---|---|
| Application: | 1 Shower |
| Voltage: | 240v 208V |
| Water Connection: | 3/4" |
| Connection Type: | Threaded |
| Height (Inches): | 14.5" |
| Width (Inches): | 16-5/8" |
| Depth (Inches): | 4-5/8" |
| Warranty: | 3 Year (Parts) |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 8 |
| Min Flow (GPM): | 1.8 |
| Amps (240V): | 100 (2*50) |
| Amps (208V): | 88 (2*44) |
| KW (240V): | 24 |
| KW (208V): | 18 |
If you live in an area with hard water and do not have a softener, scale build up could be causing the situation you are experiencing. You should descale the unit, and if installing a softener is not feasible expect to have to descale the unit more frequently.
I installed a 24 Plus last November, so it has been through one winter (albeit a mild one) and one very hot summer. I also have an electric range and a fairly efficient A/C. Not once have I experienced any load problems.
I would find another specialist. The electric direct heat is much more efficient than a hot water tank. Check with an electrician for your load to make sure it can handle the two 60 amp breakers. You will find no cold water ever with the tankless. I love mine.
I put in a Tempra 24+ in my shop with a 200 amp service, and I think it's great. However, other than the heat pump, my other major current draws are items like the welder and air compressor which won't be on while I'm taking a shower. Gas units are definitely preferred, but if there's no way to plumb a stack out of your house for the exhaust, then you may not have that option. This is especially true where electricity is expensive (here on the west coast, electricity is relatively cheap). I would say that your best option is to upgrade your electric service to the house if you want an electric tankless hot water heater. If your house is small, you are likely close to a comfortable load for your 200 amp service, but you'll need to add up the high load devices to see what they actually draw to find out if it's O.K. or not. You will need to get the spec's for your particular units to make sure. For example, here's some reasonable numbers, a 2 ton air conditioner requires a 30 amp breaker for the outdoor unit, and also a breaker for the air handler, which may be 20 amps, however, it will draw 20 amps and 5 amps respectively. The dryer will generally have a 30 amp breaker, but your dryer may only draw 20 amps. For the oven, again you could have a 30 amp breaker, and again it may draw only 20 amps. You add those up and add 100 amps for the Tempra 24, and you get 165 amps. That is about as much as you would want to draw from a 200 Amp service. Of course, that refrigerator draws some current (at 110 VAC), and there are a lot of other items in your house that draw some current also. Another question is what kind of heat do you have? If your air conditioner is also a heat pump, it likely has an emergency coil that could draw another 60 amps by itself. Also, if you want to add a double oven later on, they require a 60 amp breaker and can draw 50 amps. If you have oil heat, and most of your appliances are small, then you might be O.K.
Hello, I am running a 200 amp service in a commercial box. My entire house is electric, including Heat pump,Air conditioning, hot tub, and everything else electric. There is never a problem with the electric when the water heater is on and say the heat pump or hot tub or stove. I can run 2 showers at the same time, but a1 shower and disk washer or clothes washer has an effect on the water pressure. We have extremely high pressure here, but not enough no hurt the water heater. Our clothes dryer has no effect on the electric either when showering. We just shower when the clothes washer is not running and run dishwasher at night before going to bed. I used 3000kw a month on electric. The water heater has helped in that department. I had an 80 gallon electric water heater when ran all the time to keep water hot. I love this 24 plus. I live outside of Philadelphia ,Pa. I think our weather is comparable. I am not an electrician but with all the electric I use I don't believe you would have a problem. No flue is great and the space savings is another benefit. When I went to a tank-less heater(gas previous house) the place I went to for the flue ( plumbing supply house) was all against it. Most people don't know what they are missing. If you feel like talking to me you can call***.****. Chuck is my name. Hope this helps you.
Well we live in central PA and the water temp here gets into the upper 40's as well. I can tell you that we have the same situation here except we have several air conditioners and not a central unit. We have had our heater for over a year now and could not be more happy with it. Never run out of hot water! As far as the load condition, I also have a 200 AMP service and have no problems at all. Remember that even though you have two 60 AMP breakers, the current draw is not 120 AMP total, that is just the size of the breaker. With a year of use, I estimate that we are saving a minimum of 20% in our electric bill. I without hesitation recommend this unit.
Dear Sir: Thanks for your question. I can provide you the following information... 1. Before you think of installing an electric tankless water heater call a certified electricain to inspect your electrical breaker panel box to see if it can hold an additional 2-60 amp breakers. If it cant, there is still a way the electrician can install wiring for the tankless water heater. This really will be the answer to all your questions concerning the water heater. 2. They do make several gas tankless water heaters which mount outside which operate in all kinds of weather..these are specifically designed for outside mount. They require a 110 volt circuit cause these are electronically activated. These are quite more expensive but they do an excellent job of heating water. Ruud, Navian, Rheem, And Takagi are brands that I have installed . The Navian is a condensating water heater and is like 96% efficient. 3. Please remember that a tankless water heater does not provide instant hot water just unlimited hot water. The amount of hot water you get at point of use depends of 2 things...the rate of flow and the temperature of water being heated. 4. Feel free to call me if you have any further questions at thanks again for the question. I hope this has answered it.
i live in cincy also. i have the 24 plus. yes, gas would be better. but i have no complaints at all about the 24 plus. long hot shower! love it, knowing i'm not cheating the next shower. as for running all those applies at once? that is a lot of draw. i just don't do it
The 24 plus would work just fine but would probably be good for only single use during the winter. (That is, only 1 shower, 1 sink , etc. at one time.) the nice thing about the unit is that if you try to exceed the gpm capacity it will automatically adjust itself to the gpm that it is able to heat according to what temperature you have the unit set on. As far as the electrical load, the unit is a non-continuous load. It will only use the amount of electric required to reach desired temperature with 100 amps. Being the max it can draw. (for the 24 plus unit.) I'm not an electrician, but I have a good electrician that has explained this to me along with my own concerns about a/c unit, clothes dryer, etc. Some of your other high amp. draw appliances use more electric at startup but then come back down. (a/c for example.) I don't think you'd have a problem, but the easy solution if you did would be to make sure that all your appliances were never all running at the same time. (I thought I might have a problem to; I have a well pump, double oven, a/c with heat strip when it gets cold, clothes dryer, pool pump, spa pump and the 120 amp Tempra water heater. But I also have a 225 amp main electrical panel. I've never had a problem.) A gas tankless would give you more gpm of hot water, but down here in Florida, price of propane verses electric, electric is cheaper to run. Hope this info helps. Jim Brady
I too have a 200 amp electric sevice and the 24 Plus model of this water heater. I had an electrician assess our situation prior to installing this unit as we also have a pretty heavy electricity draw. In addition to the electric heat pump, we have two out-buildings (workshops ) that are wired into our 200 amp panel box. One building has its own AC and heating unit, and we have NO problem running this water heater. If several things are running, I can tell when the unit turns on (as a slight, instantaneous light dim) but we have not had any problems with our unit; I recommend it highly!
This unit can be used for two showers during much of the year, but it may have trouble keeping up during the winter months.
Yes, I have used this unit with two showers running at the same time with no problems.
You can, but the pressure is very low. Willie Sent from my iPad
Yes. Can take 2 showers at same time in Florida. S As intend to take hot hot showers, there can be a drop in water pressure Sent from my iPhone
Yes, you can use two showers at a time. I recommend that you measure the flow of the shower heads in gpm and use that flow to calculate and confirm that it does not exceed the manufacturers specs. Some things that will come into play are how hot you want the water to be and the ambient water temp. Sent from my iPad
Absolutely Sent from my U.S. Cellular® Android-powered phone
Yes it can.
This Tempura 24 Plus unit handles two simultaneous showers in our warm climate (Texas). I don't know how well the model operates during winter months in colder climates.
YES I have 2 showers and both can run at the same time. You don't want to run a washer or dishwasher while the shower is on. It can supply hot water for 2 showers at once.
Yes it can. I use it for two showers. Just remember that the higher the volume of water being used the lower the temperature it can achieve. During the summer months in the south it has no problem running two showers at a time. During the winter it works as well, but I prefer it a bit warmer so we stagger our showering. One very nice feature is the ability to set the maximum temperature at the unit.
It works just fine with my high efficacy appliances. Please note that I live in Florida & do not know if would work as well in a colder climate Sent from my iPhone
Hello. This unit works very well for me. it will work 2 showers at the same time. as far as a washing machine and dishwasher I run my dishwasher at night before I go to bed. I have an HE washer, and a new Dishwasher. They probably could be run at the same time, This water heater Works really well for me And my family. Our electric bill Has gone down Quite a bit. Space savings is well worth it also. our house has really high water pressure and there's no issue with the water heater. hope this info help you. I have a family of 4 and this unit can provide all the hot water we need. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
I installed this unit, and I too was worried about whether low flow would trigger hot water. Once installed, everything seems to work very well. I am even able to wash my hands in the sink and get hot water, which should be very low flow.
works fine with mine
It seems to me that you should have no problem. The use of these systems requires a fast flow to heat the water. Small amounts is not a concern if the flow is controlled by the water pressure.
No, you do not. Willie Sent from my iPad
yes
I don't know any reason to use gfci breakers. You don't use them on a standard electric water heater. I used two 60 amp breakers for my installation a year ago. I will also say that we are extremely pleased with the Tempra 24 plus heater. It is saving us at least 20% in our electric costs, heats right away (you have to wait till the hot water gets to the spigot you are using of course) and I have now been able to put a nice storage cabinet in the area where the big old water heater energy waster was before! Hope this helps. Glenn Gutshall
Yes, you will need two breakers. Depending on the building codes in your area they will need to be installed near the heater as a sub-panel or independent breakers.
No, at least my local code did not so require. I installed two appropriately sized (60 amp in my case) breakers, with appropriately sized wire from the breaker box to the tankless unit.
I simply installed 2 normal 60 amp breakers in my panel box and ran the wiring (2 wires) to the water heater. The total wire run is approximately 16 feet. Just get 60 amp breakers that are suitable for you panel box (brand/type).
Hi I'm a master plumbing+ heating contractor, this unit requires alot of electricity. I, would consult a local electrician. jim
It depends on the system. 200 amp service is a must. You would also need breakers. wrote:
No. that is the simple answer. You need to have 125 amps open. And a 200 amp service. They need 2 6ga wires and a min of 2 double 50 amp breakers. Hope this helps. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Device
You have to run two separate 50amp circuit to the unit. If your main panel is max out, you will not be able to install unless, of course you upgrade your service panel. I hope this helps. William Sent from my iPad
I installed my unit in a new log cabin that I am building but it will work in any installation as long as you have room for 3 20 amp (220 volt) circuits. If your home does not have 200 amp service coming into it, you may be hard pressed to make this work. If it does and your existing panel is full, a sub panel could easily be installed that would accomodate the tankless heater. Hope this helps.
It needs two 60 Amp breakers. Since many older systems are 100 amp service to the whole house, that would not work. You need at least a 200 Amp service ito use this, and you will need to run two new circuits from your panel to the water heater for it to work. Jake
This unit would likely handle your domestic hot water needs, but not the heating load as well.
Hard water will affect any hot water heater if nothing is done to protect it. The manufacturer recommends using a water softener to prevent the minerals from solidifying inside the tank, or a routine flushing of the unit.