
| Port Size: | 1/2" |
|---|---|
| Fitting System Compatibility: | Clamp Crimp |
| Material: | Plastic |
| Application: | Plumbing |
| Outlet Type: | PEX |
| Number of Outlets: | 30 |
| Number of Outlets (Cold): | 18 |
| Number of Outlets (Hot): | 12 |
| Tubing Compatibility: | PEX |
| Warranty: | 10 Year |
No, this is not recommended.
No, the plate cannot be moved. Choose a different model for more / less ports.
I would doubt you are able to move it... I think its pretty sealed up... If you need more hot ports just order a larger one and cap the ports you don't use. Sent from my iPhone
No
No. In order to get the number of hot ports you will need, you'll have to buy a manifold with the number you need. The details will show how many of each port is provide with each type of manablock.
ViegaPEX tubing is BPA free.
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/how-safe-pex-tubing This is the article that I read prior to making my decision. One of the tipping factors was that the mineral leech from galvanic corrosion (copper piping issue) was much more prevalent. The effects of BPA ingestion from water leeching is minimal; however, the ingestion of copper corrosives is not as benign. I switched my basement from copper to Pex and immediately noticed a difference in water quality.
Yes, you can install the MANABLOC in any direction.
Yes, I had a situation where i needed the water at the bottom. I called Manabloc and it was OK. You also can plug/ cap the hot out and just use the outlet valves
I don't see why you couldn't mount it upside down and add drain valves to the 3/4" supply lines for easy draining of the system. It's a sealed pressurized system so it doesn't rely on gravity. I added a bunch of 1" ball valves on my supply lines so I could shut off one or both of my manifolds easily. You could leave one end of a ball valve open so you can drain the whole system in minutes. Brian
Another follow up to my response - The manifold has two 3/4" inlets on top and one 3/4" inlet on the bottom. The top left is the hot and top right is the cold. The bottom you can use to feed another manifold, but most people cap it off. I don't think you could use that to drain the hot water, though, just the cold water. To accomplish what you want just flip the manifold upside down and add a Tee with ball valves on each supply line that are open for draining (into buckets or route a PEX line to a drain or outside). Then your cap would be on the top and gravity should take care of the draining. On my system the water drained out a lot better than my old copper lines when I was installing and testing. Brian
yes
Yes, you can turn the manabloc in either direction. Good luck with your project. WKM
My dad owns and operates a small plumbing company and uses these products all the time. I have helped install them many times and although we have never needed to do so I can't think of a reason y it can't be done, sounds like a great idea. Ian Sent from my iPhone
No problem, it will work fine either way. I have one mounted "right-side-up" with the supply on the bottom, and have a drain valve in the supply line (on the manifold side of the shutoff) for easy winterizing. But every installation is unique. Go for it. Joe
If your water corrodes brass fittings, we would recommend that you use the PolyAlloy version of this crimp MANABLOC. We do not stock it, but it is available for special order (part 50243).
Your crimp connectors will not be affected by "aggressive" water, as they will not interact with the water. They slip around the plastic tubing and serve only to hold the tubing to the adapters. As for the brass adapters themselves, they should also fair better in your new Pex system. Much of the corrosion that brass pieces are subject to is known as galvanic corrosion. This occurs when two dissimilar metals come in contact in a fluid system. Since you are changing to a plastic piping system, your brass adapters will last much longer. I have had my Pex system for 2 years now, and have had no troubles since I've installed it.
Good idea replacing copper with PEX. Most corrosion in metallic plumbing is due to electrolysis where water as the electrolyte completes a circuit between two dissimilar metal portions of the plumbing. A standard method of blocking this is to use dielectric unions between the different metals in the system, where a standard union is augmented with an electrically insulating plastic member between the two sides.. PEX tubing does not conduct, so a PEX system provides excellent electrical isolation between the occasional metallic piece in the system, much reducing if not eliminating corrosion. You might also want to have your water tested for pH and install a treatment if needed to bring pH into a reasonable range. Joe
We would recommend 3/4" to ensure that each line receives adequate flow.
if you're converting from copper to pex, I would definitly go up to 3/4" for the main supply line. Reason being, the measurement is based on the outside diameter of the pipe... so 1/2" copper is actually larger based on the inside diameter compared to 1/2" pex... then, ontop of that, when you do a "fitting" with copper, the fitting goes on the outside of the copper (so it doesn't effect the inside diameter of the pipe), but with Pex, the fitting goes on the INSIDE of the tube, thus causing an even greater decrease in the inside diameter of the pipe, and a bottleneck at that location. so I would upsize to 3/4" for that reason alone... ontop of that, I'm assuming you're using 1/2" for all the breakouts... so you want your main supply line to be larger than the supply line for each individual sink/tub/toilet... (personally, I went with 1" for the main line in... which was 3/4" copper to begin with, for the reason above... but I also tend to go overkill...)
If you can, do it. You will want that 3/4" main for good pressure to multiple 1/2" outlets.
If the ½” pipe carries enough flow for you now (without excessive pressure drop at full usage), there is little reason to go bigger, other than noise. ¾” pipe holds more water than ½” pipe, so the velocity for any given flow will be less. Less velocity = less noise. If you use ¾ after the water heater, the amount of hot water you have to fill the pipe with before it gets to where you want it will be higher than if you used ½”. But, it will be quieter. If you are running a single fixture off of each valve of the manifold. 3/8” pipe on the hot water side will give a faster hot water response than ½”, but, more noise. It is all a trade off.
The exact point of the reduction would not matter too much to our knowledge. If you decide to feed the MANABLOC with 1/2" our only concern would be that you may not be getting enough flow to supply all the lines.
Yes, part 46634 can be used on any crimp MANABLOC to transition to a 1/2" crimp fittings.
Yes, I just got done using a mix of 1/2 and 3/8 on mine. The 1/2 port adapters are tricky to find on this site though, so here is a link http://www.pexsupply.com/Viega-46634-PEX-Crimp-Port-Adapter-1-2-PEX-Crimp-x-1-2-Port-Zero-Lead
It does not. Water pressure in the system will be sufficient to allow you to use it either way.
Yes and no. When you buy the manabloc install kit, you get two adapters and a plug for the single inlet. I got a third adaptor and ran soft water into the single inlet which in turn fills the three colds on the hot side as well as the cold side. The "inlet" on the cold side then becomes an outlet to the HWH. The inlet on the hot side comes from the HWH.
Branching off the main line would be your only option, as you cannot run 3/4" lines from the MANABLOC distribution ports.
It may be easier to install MINIBLOCs in the lines. A part 50355 fitting could, theoretically, connect two MANABLOCs together, but it's really designed to connect MINIBLOCs directly to MANABLOCs. Getting two MANABLOCs to fit together would require them to face in different directions.
i believe you will have to run two but the way they are configured you can mount one just up from the other with minimal connections. btw good luck that sounds like a massive project. Im sure you will do fine.