| Type: | Zone Control |
|---|---|
| Application: | Zoning |
| Number of Zones: | 3 |
| Width (Inches): | 7-1/4" |
| Height (Inches): | 2.75" |
| Depth (Inches): | 1" |
| Power Supply: | 24 VAC |
| Amperage: | 2 |
Yes, you would need to purchase a separate pump relay in addition to this control model to trigger the circulator.
Yes, this would allow control of 8 actuators if wired together for a total of 4 zones.
Hello, These can be plugged in and expanded together. A jumper will come with the board. Thank You,
you would need to contact Wirsbo and Tekmar, we do not have tech info like that.
I don't think so. It's meant to accept a 24v *AC* supply voltage, and work with thermostats that are also 24v AC. What you could do is buy a relay with a 24v DC coil, and connect the contacts of that to the thermostat terminals of the zone control module - that's guaranteed to work.
Note: Green light means the system is active Yellow light means that particular circuit is armed but not engaged (valve closed) Red light means that particular circuit is engaged (valve open) For the red light to work, you need a four wire motorized valve actuator (I am familiar with the two wire solenoid that you mentioned). If you do have four wire valve actuator, then either the actuator is bad or it is not adjusted properly. To adjust the actuator align the arrow on the actuator with the dot by turning it clock/counter-clockwise. If the actuator is bad then replace it. Kamal
Just be certain that both the red and yellow wires from the actuators are completely inserted into the zone module. Sometimes they slip out. Dennis
Yes, this control will work with most low-voltage thermostats.
Works with any 24v. t-stat.
This control will work with most low-voltage thermostats.
This unit will work with most thermostats. The 3-zone module is fed with 24volts on one end. On the other end of the module is the "end switch" which would turn on the circulator pump. The Module is designed to be used with zone valves and is well labeled and easy to wire. There are indicator lights to show when the thermostat is calling for heat at which point the zone valve will open and the pump will run.
Hi - I have the Wirsbo 4 zone board connected to Nest thermostats.
Yes, I have one of these with (3) Honeywell VisionPRO thermostats like SKU TH8110U1003 installed in my house for a few years now. They work perfectly together, so I have no doubt that you will find the same result with the less expensive Honeywell TH4110D1007. A bonus is that the Uponor module has a 3-terminal connection for thermostats -- you can hook up that 3rd wire to provide a 24VAC common to your thermostat. See the Wiring Diagrams on pages 5 & 7 of the TH4110D1007 downloadable manual. This lets your thermostat keep from running on batteries unless the power is out. I wired my VisionPRO-s this way, which also let me select continuous backlighting. Makes a nice night-light, but I didn't see that the TH4110D1007 has that option (probably the backlight always goes off a few seconds after the last button pressed). Cheers and good luck with your project, --Dan
Yes the end switch is a dry contact so each zone Control would be wired in parallel on the pump relay
Yes, just make sure you have a large enough transformer to power your zone valves, actuators, and etc. on the two control modules. Use the jumper that comes with the module to connect the two. Then connect your output (C & R lines) to the T & T inputs on the relay.
That is just hooking two switches in parallel which should be fine. These are AC So feedback should not be a problem. If they were DC I would put a diode across the switches to prevent arcing. Sent from my iPhone 4S Tom
I would say yes. I beleive the end switches are dry contacts.
The zone control module's end switch outputs are typically 'chained' together if there are more than one module controlling a single 'heat demand', or pump relay in this case. The module's box even contains jumpers to make this easier (also chains the power supplies).The end switch outputs can be connected in parallel if the modules are not physically adjacent. There is a fuse (2 amps?) which protects the module circuit board(s) from being overloaded by the relay's load.
The 3 zone modules are likable. Link them together and you will only need To connect one end switch to your relay. Sent from my iPhone
These things are versatile and can be wired all sorts ways. They can even be piggybacked -- which, if I understand your question correctly is the option you would want. Just plug them together with the jumper and you should have 24VDC available for your pump relay. See the PDF technical bulletin on the PexSupply product page for various wiring configurations. Also, the Wirsbo Design Manual has a good description of the module with sample wiring configurations.
The short answer is yes. The end switches are "dry contacts" ie. they are not powered by the control, they simply switch whatever power is sent to them, very similar to a thermostat.
Yes they can
You can use four-wire zone valves from different manufacturers with this control. They do not have to be Uponor zone valves, but they must be four-wire.