| Frequency: | 60 Hz 60 Hz 60 Hz |
|---|---|
| Poles: | 2 |
| Material: | Bronze |
| Horse Power: | 1/25 |
| Mount: | In-Line |
| Application: | Heating |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Amperage: | 0.74 |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 145 |
| Type: | 1-Speed Pump |
| Connection Size: | 1/2" |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 14.7 |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-14.7 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 14 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-14 |
| Hertz: | 60 |
| Phase: | 1 |
| Temperature Range (F): | 36°F - 230°F |
| Connection Type: | Sweat |
This pump is a commonly used and installed unit so there isn't another pump that would really be listed as an alternative at this time.
The replacement terminal strip is the part needed here, and that is sku 595424.
This pump comes with 1/2" Sweat connections on the inlet and outlet.
I can not find any specs on the "59896115 PC: 0343" pump. If you call us with the specs for that pump we maybe able to find a replacement.
According to the pump curve 9.5gpm is the highest flow it will achieve and that is with zero head. Even at that flow rate the velocities are within acceptable range for a ½" pipe. Even at the unlikely flow of 14.7 the velocity would not be high enough for pipe erosion, I would look at other sources like galvanic or chemical corrosion.
This pump does not use flanges. Instead, it has 1/2" sweat connections.
You can sweat copper right onto the pump. The picture depicts that you have a flange type, but the details describe that it is actually sweat, so you are good to go. Brian Janes Drains Plus Inc.
It is possible by using silver solder. The risk of thermal damage to the unit will be high, any future leaks at this joint will be unrepairable after the unit is full of water. The flanges are low cost and allow for quick change out and never leak. If you are not experienced with silver solder and how to protect the unit from the heat developed you will damage the pump.Buy the flanges you will be way ahead.
As with so many similar situations, there may be several ways to do any one thing, however, I prefer using the addition of a separate flange set. The set is threaded to accept a "npt" nipple and then you can transition to a pex fitting. To me this makes for a much better overall solution. The flange set also serves to provide a substantial support for the weight of the pump however you may be attaching your pump to a support. G Lewis
I have the same pump it will not receive a coupling but you can sweat a 1/2" into the pump. Sent from my iPad
120 volt pump above uses 25 watts...
Multiply indicated operating current (amperage) times voltage to obtain power consumption in watts. Energy expense will depend on local kilowatt per hour utility charge and daily motor run time.
Each hp uses 745.7 watts, so dived by 25, this pump, in theory, should require 30 watts while running. There will be the usual spike at startup, though.
1 hp = 746 watts. thus 1/25 hp = about 30 watts
I really don't know, I have it on a timer and run it about 14 hours a day. It does it's job though.
$0.0013 /Hr @ $0.0472 /KWH utility rate
59896775 would be a better choice because it also has union connections. No kit is needed for installation.
If you are looking for a hot water recirculation pump, then this would work for you.
We've had one in our home, 4 bedroom, 3.5 baths, 2 story, for 15 years. No problems. Works great. We have a very long run from water heater to 2 of the bathrooms. If it is off it takes about 30 seconds to get hot water to the far bathrooms when you turn it on.
Yes, these are normal occurrences.