**Note: The HydroClaw Expansion Tank Support Bracket provides a safe and reliable option if you prefer to mount your expansion tank. This expansion tank bracket is easy to install and will hold any tank with a diameter of 11" nominal.
The Amtrol EX30 EXTROL Expansion Tank is designed to be installed in residential and commercial applications and it factory pre-charged to 12 PSIG. Though this expansion tank can be mounted horizontally this can cause a decrease in the products life.
Features:
| Warranty: | 7 Year |
|---|---|
| Tank Volume: | 4.4 Gallons |
| Application: | Heating |
| Diameter (Inches): | 11" |
| Height (Inches): | 15.5" |
| Max Accepted Volume: | 2.5 Gallons |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 100 |
| Thread Type: | Male |
| Max Temp (F): | 240°F |
| Precharged PSI: | 12 psi |
| Thread Size: | 1/2" |
It does appear that your expansion tank has failed and it's time for a new one. Hopefully you can separate your boiler water from the rest of the heating system. There should be shut off valves on the supply and return sides. Close those and drain the boiler. Then replace the tank. The good news is it shouldn't take much longer than 30 minutes and the tanks are inexpensive. The weak point in these tanks is the diaphragm and once that fails (every 20 years or so) there is not much else to do except replace. If your system does not have valves to isolate the radiators and lines then you need to either drain the system or be quick and have a bucket and mop ready. Since boiler water pressure is low it may not be all that bad. You should also consider adding valves if you don't have them.
Yes, I have the same problem currently with mine. They typically develop a pinhole in the diaphragm and get waterlogged. With my system the telltale sign is a slow drip leak through the overflow pipe. Yes you will have to shut off the water and drain the system, and just read the directions for the pressure setting. You shouldn't have to increase the pressure setting in the new tank as I think the furnace itself will determine the operating pressure which should be in the range of 12-20 psig. Also, while you have your system shut down take a look a the other components and see if anything else needs upgrading/replacement. The autobleeder will take care of a lot of residual air when re-filling the system but you will have to open the bleed valves on each baseboard or radiator, unless it is a hydronic pex tubing system. Regards, Rick
I am not a profession but I installed this tank on my own to my baseboard heating system. When my expansion tank stopped functioning, there were 3 indicators: (1) system pressure increased significantly when the system was heated, (2) the entire tank, bottom and top, was the same temperature (cold) when the system was on or off, (3) tapping the bottom or the top of the tank would produce the same sound. Since the tank's top and bottom are separated by a membrane, the top is filled with water and the bottom with air. Tapping on the top of the tank should produce a dull sound and the bottom should be lighter sound. When the system is running, the top of the functioning tank should be warm and the bottom should be colder. To install the new tank, I did not have to drain the entire system. I simply turned of the water supply and removed the old tank (it is very difficult to remove because of rust). Water came out but I quickly installed the new tank. The pressure on the new tank is already set at 12 psi. That was the pressure for my system (controlled by a pressure regulater set at 12 psi). In case yours is higher, you should inflate the tank with a bicycle/car pump (see valve at the bottom of the tank) BEFORE you install the tank. You can then measure the pressure (before installing the tank) using a car pressure gauge.
21 yrs old--REPLACE it and anything else that may fail, like the pressure regulator, too. You might think of a Filtrol 110, which regulates sys. pressure too. Water expands when heated and it has to go somewhere in a closed sys. The Extrol accepts the expanded water. If water drips out of the boiler pressure relief valve and the press. gauge is around 30 psi. when the boiler reaches max temp., you need a new tank as it is water logged. Unscrew the cap on the bottom of the tank and push on the tire valve if water comes out, you need a new tank. The tank air pressure should be 12-15 psi before installation.
This tank is designed for use only in closed-loop heating systems. The oxygen in potable water can cause it to rust. We would recommend part 141N43, which is designed for use with potable water.
No
I understood that Extrol was for closed looped hot water heating systems. So , I would say No to the question
Why use it for cold water? I used it in my heating system for expansion of water during heating process. Generally there is no need for expansion with cold water. I don't know if this has food grade seals either. I don't recommend it for potable drinking water application. Sent from my iPhone
The Extrol is for use only in closed hydronic heating systems and chilled non-potable (non-drinking) water systems! A chilled water system is an enclosed recycled water system used for cooling.
No, that tank is designed for closed hydronic heating systems, not domestic water. You want to look for a tank like this: http://www.pexsupply.com/Amtrol-141N43-THERM-X-TROL-ST-12-Expansion-Tank-3715000-p
It must be for domestic water. Make sure it is not designated "For Heating Only".
That tank is only good for Heating system use. If you want an expansion tank for drinking water then you want the "THERM-X-TROL ST-12 Expansion Tank" SKU:141N43. The ST-12 is made special for Potable water. Glendon Weaver Earl Weaver Contractors, LLC
The tank's label says " not for domestic water". But it does say " for hot/chilled systems". why would you need an expansion tank for drinking water system? The tank is designed to absorb changes in the water volume, given temperature fluctuations. Sent via BlackBerry
No you need one rated for potable water John Rush Evolo Home Center Evolo Energy Solutions www.evolohomecenter.com www.evoloenergysolutions.com Sent from my U.S. Cellular® Android phone
No. Only water should be in the non-diaphragm section of the Extrol. If air enters the tank it will not operate properly. Download the instruction manual and you will see that it must be installed with the inlet fitting up or parallel to the ground. .
I am not a professional but as far as I know they may be mounted in any direction. Think about a small well tank, it is put right on top of the pump. I mounted my horizontal and it is fine.
Upside down it would act as a diaphragm tank on a well water system; I would try it Upside down!
yes
Hi, yes this tank can be mounted in any position. Heating applications only.
I did. It has been working well. Steve
Properly inflated (inflated with no water in it),yes. The diaphragm is pushing against the water inlet so there isn't any air in the water side to compress. Any air in the piping will eventually be absorbed by the water and removed by the air eliminator. Air is compressible, which is what an Exp. tank is all about. Exp. tanks should be mounted at least 12 pipe diameters from pump inlet.
You should use a #30 expansion tank, such as the Amtrol 102-1.
#30 Extrol would be fine. Thanks, Rob Blair
Extrol RX-30 is the correct product for this application.
A #30 is fine. It all depends on volume of water, temp. rise and system pressure. An RX-30 is for a closed system where O2 can get in to the water, such as PEX tubing (radiant infloor)without a O2 barrier. (A lot of that around). Baseboard is non permeable. I've used #30 on 200,000 BTU boilers
There would be no problem with installing the tank vertically. Being above the ceiling would be okay as long as freezing is not an issue. Keep in mind, however, that this expansion tank is designed for heating systems. It could rust if used for plumbing.
You need a Exp. tank made for potable water which is an open system. No Extrol #30. Buy a Therm-X-trol Exp. tank. Exp. Tank is used on a water heater when you have a check valve on the cold water supply that prevents the heated water in the W/H from moving back out to the street supply. The expansion of heated water has to go somewhere. Thus the Exp. tank.
You can mount this expansion tank in any direction. Certain installations may require some sort of support, but you would need to devise the setup on your own. If the tank is located near a wall, using straps or hooks to support it shouldn't be too difficult.
A #30 expansion tank is recommended for 87,000 BTU boilers. It can be installed horizontally.
Your Exp. tank is too small when, (empty of water) properly inflated to 12-15 psi., water drips out of the boiler pressure relief valve on to the floor and your pressure gauge on the boiler reads 30 psi.. The pressure relief valve is set to release water at 30 psi and your boiler pressure when operating should be well below that. 18 to 20 psi. range.
You can use the ETX-30 as long as the BTU output of the boiler is no greater than 150,000 BTUs.
You should use an RX-30 if your PEX tubing is a non-02 barrier type. O2 can get into the water through the Pex tube from the outside an rust the cast iron parts of the system and tank if you have non-barrier PEX. Using Glyco, the added protection of RX-30 is desirable. Just reduce the connection with a 1/2" X 3/4" brass coupling.
Normally you would replace the tank.
Expansion tank should be pressurized 5 psi above the pressure at the top of the highest radiator in the house. Measure from Exp. tank to the highest radiator and divide by 28". 28" = 1 psi. add 5 psi to result & inflate. Inflate tank with NO water in it (empty). I have never had a Schrader valve plug up. Yes, use a paper clip. (carefully) Defective Schrader valve?
You will need to drain the system unless the expansion tank is isolated within the system (with shut-off valves, etc). The pressure of the tank needs to match the pressure of your heating system, normally around 12 psi.