| Length (Feet): | 8' |
|---|---|
| Height (Inches): | 7.875" |
| Color: | Nu-White enamel |
| Finish: | Nu-White enamel |
| Model: | Fine/Line 30A |
| Application: | Heating |
| Depth (Inches): | 2-11/16" |
| Type: | Hydronic |
| BTU Output: | 610 |
| Package Type: | Includes Heating Element |
There is no difference in between the two type of baseboard mentioned other than appearance and price. Both install and work the same. M type copper is not the heaviest, remember when dealing with any type of metal the lower the letter or number the heavier.
They do not need to be painted, it is already painted.
no they have a very nice protective finish already on them. The only problem I had is that they got beat up bit by the shipper. the longest ones are the ones that got beat up.
Baseboard thats going to be used in bathroom were there's alot of moisture you should spray the covers inside & out with high heat (clear) engine paint you will be glade in the long run!covers are not painted well on the in side.they will rust over time!
Not white, more of an ivory or neutral/beige color
The latter-it's not white. A quick touch-up with some spray paint works fine.
The white on the nu-white slat-fin is just a shade on the beige side as compared to the plastic covers used on wall electric receptacles. sorry best answer I could give you. All in all I thrilled with the finished look.
I would say it's white. I have installed this product/color and it matches my white vanity and baseboard nicely.
Definitely a 5' baseboard. You can cut it to size.
Slant/Fin baseboard heaters are only currently available with copper elements that do not have threaded connections. Although it would be possible to use SharkBite fittings to connect PEX to one end of a baseboard (the side with a smaller, "street" connection), you may want to look at Runtal-brand baseboards. These have 1/2" female NPT connections, which would enable you to connect to PEX without first needing to solder any adapters.
"Shark-fin" connectors will work on the baseboard stubs: just push on the appropriately sized coupling & then push-in the appropriately sized pex tubing. The pex tubing must be of the oxygen-barrier type.
If these are hot water heater you can put them up side down, they are just copper tubes with fins on them. If you are running the pipes through the ceiling you would have to worry about freezing. If your furnace will let you run the pump only for the summer you can use it for cooling. I just ran the pipe through the wall by drilling a hole and taking the fins off at that point or order the right length. Most all places that sell these things will answer any questions. I am a 64 yr old women and I did it myself, with a little help from my sister and company that I bought them from.
This isn't a good idea Yes they will work on the ceiling with very poor heat distribution, and if you going to pump ice water through them for your chiller(????).....I don't think so It's back to the drawing board Sent via airmail!
The heaters would not convect like they are designed to do mounting them on the ceiling. I would think the floor area will remain cold. Using cool water in them in the summer would create a great deal of condensation on the fins if there is any humidity in the air.
The Fine/Line 30 Series is only available with a 3/4" element, but Fine/Line 15 and Base/Line 2000 models can be custom-ordered with a 1/2" element.
While the covers do help create convection currents in the room, they are not necessary for heating. They are more important when it comes to the look and protecting small children from touching the hot element.
One side of a baseboard element is designed to fit over the other (so that you can connect units together). This means one side is sized as a copper fitting. Part H060750 would work on this side, but we do not have a copper x PEX elbow that would work.
You can cut a baseboard with a chop saw, but you can also combine a 2-foot unit with end caps. We offer custom cutting of the Baseboarders DIY covers we sell, but these do not include an element.
It is possible to cut a baseboard with a chop saw, but it is also plausible to combine a 2-foot unit with end caps long enough to take up 2.5 ft. Either method would work, but the second has less chance for a destructive error.