| Application: | Zoning |
|---|---|
| Material: | Cast Iron |
| Amperage: | 0.71 |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 125 |
| Type: | Pump |
| Horse Power: | 1/25 |
| Connection Size: | 1-1/2" 1-1/4" 3/4" 1" |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 23 |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-23 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-10 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 10 |
| Hertz: | 60 |
| Phase: | 1 |
| RPM: | 3250 |
| Temperature Range (F): | 40°F - 240°F |
| Connection Type: | Flanged x Flanged |
| Warranty: | 3 Year |
| Replaces: | 007-F3 007-F4 |
The 'B' in the second model indicates that the circulator is bronze. Bronze and stainless steel pumps are able to resist corrosion, making them a must in systems that include drinking water or that are used for open-loop space heating. The 'J' likely indicates that it was an OEM model (i.e. one that Taco made for a different company). 007-SF5 would be the current replacement. Most bronze pumps have been replaced by stainless steel models as a result of recent lead-free laws in the United States.
You should be able to feel a slight vibration in the motor and you should be able to feel a temperturedifferential if the pump is not running.
you just turn on your system and touch the pump with your hand wrap your hand around the pump and feel it running. if there is no vibration it is not working. Turn off your system and then feel the pump Does it feel different? if not your pump is not running
Best way to check the pump is if it is in line on a boiler, turn the boiler on and simply listen for the pump. If it isn't working, you won't hear a thing.
if you know a electrican you can have him do a amp draw test and this will tell you how many amps your pump is pulling, if it is at the fla max, FULL LOAD AMPS , then you will need to replace the pump, this will be on the pump cover, hope this helps, bob
Feel the return pipe for heat. Listen to the pump. You should hear it running or feel a steady vibration.
If it does not circulate water to your zones then it's bad. If it makes noise it's going bad
Cast iron circulators should only be used in closed-loop heating systems (i.e. those that continually cycle the same fluid and that are closed to the atmosphere). Most hydronic heating systems are closed. Corrosion-resistant circulators (e.g. stainless steel or bronze) are needed on open-loop heating systems (which often include geothermal systems or wood-boiler systems, in addition to systems that use non-oxygen-barrier PEX). Corrosion-resistant pumps are also needed in potable water recirculation systems. Stainless steel pumps are a good choice in these applications because they are always lead free.
on any potable water to prevent rust, and contamination, bob
I believe that Apollo Hydro Heat systems require a pump that's rated for use with potable water since comes in direct contact with the potable water in the hot water heater. The standard Taco 007 pump is cast iron and not rated for potable water. The Taco 007-SF5 pump is stainless steel and is certified for use in potable water applications in CA and VT.
Taco pumps are the best and the most dependable. I have replaced big 1/4 horse pumps with this little pump and had good results. I am only familiar with boiler and hot geothermal systems. I dont know about your system. But for only at a 125 bucks how can you go wrong. just tryit....DAVE
You will need to upgrade your circulator to get more flow. Might have to raise inlet and outlet size.
I simply have a shutoff valve on the discharge side of pump and close valve to desired GPM. That way you don’t starve the pump and you will notice less current draw.
it has 23 gpm but I would get a ball valve and balance it out that way it also has 10 ft of lift , hope this helps, bob
No you need to use a Variable speed circulator like:Taco 007 Variable Speed Delta-T Cast Iron Circulator Pump Hope this helps.
No, the pump has no adjustment for flowrate. You adjust flow by head pressure on the pump. Using the pump curves, http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-1.8.pdf 3 GPM requires about 9.5 feet of head pressure. A partially closed valve can develop needed head pressure.
The Taco 007-F5 does not have an integral check valve. Part 007-F5-7IFC is the equivalent circulator with an integral check valve.
You Need a flow-check valve for that heating zone. The heat is migrating by gravity circulation, which is usually a much worse problem when you have a domestic hot water zone in the same system. Flow checks are cheap and fairly easy to install; nearly everyone makes them: Taco, B&G, Watts, etc.
possible bad flow valve or bad zone valve, or can use a flow valve in this zone, hope this helps, bob
You have a faulty zone valve or flocheck
If you have zone valves for each heat zone and one for Hot water ck the little tab lever on the bottom of the zone Valve if it has resistance when you push it the zone is closed And no hot water is going to that zone. If it is closed you Will get some residual heat on the back side if another zone Is open and circulator is on. Sent from my iPhone
There is a rubber or silicone gasket in your header that may need to be replaced I had this happen to me and I had to buy a kit that included the part Mike
Peter, All Taco pumps, unless they specifically have a check valve in them (not yours) will allow water flow through them, in either direction, when not running. If the zone is conducive to thermosyphon flow, you will get some flow through the zone without the pump running. Normally the amount of flow through the zone without pump assistance is minimal. Even with a check valve, there can still be flow in the normal direction. The only way to stop that is with a manual shut-off valve or an electrically operated "zone valve", like this; http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Zone-Valves-17141000 or this; http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-Zone-Valves-17143000 , which can be wired in line with the pump so it opens when the pump is activated. Tom Sullivan U.P. Solar Solutions
First feel the pump is it running? If it is running then it is a control issue. If not the water is siphoning through the system. A one way valve properly placed will prevent the flow or a properly placed solenoid valve that opens withe the pump starting.
When you heat a liquid there is always movement due to thermosiphon. To avoid the flow I use a circulator with integral flow control<http://www.pexsupply.com/Taco-007-F5-7IFC-007-Cast-Iron-Circulator-with-Integral-Flow-Check-1-25-HP-3647000-p>. An alternative is to add an anti-thermosiphon check valve. Go here<http://www.pexsupply.com/Bell-Gossett-107035-3-4-NPT-Bronze-HydroTrol-Flow-Control-Valve-8619000-p>. Hope this helps and good luck.
You are likely getting gravity circulation and need to install a check valve. Easiest solution might be to use a TACO 007 with integral flow check (IFC).
It could be overheating....try turning on and off manualy if it gets to hot to touch....needs replaced Sent from my Windows Phone
Yes, this means the pump is going bad. Sounds like the capacitor is going out. If this is a cartrige pump, i.e. 007 or similar, just throw it away and replace it; they aren't worth repairing. However, if it is a three piece circulator, I.E. Bell and Gossett series 100, these can be repaired for a fraction of the cost of a new one if you are handy.
A pair of flange gaskets is included with the circulator. Flanges must be purchased separately.
Yes the one I received came complete with flange gaskets.
I am pretty sure it did !! But can't remember it's been awhile ago since I bought this item!! Sorry Sent from my iPod
Yes two of them
Mine always have. But you never know if they will continue the practice.....
Taco pumps come with gaskets....
Sometimes they forget to put them in the box, so I would get a set anyway.
The Taco 007 I received did come with a flange gasket. I would recommend installing B&G 1/4 turn ball valves on each side of the pump for servicing. The Taco's sometimes stick after sitting all summer and need some encouragement to start up for the heating season. Much easier with those ball valves! Best money I ever spent...jk Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Sid Harvey model # A28-15R is not a pump; it's their designation for a remanufactured 1/12 hp motor that is most commonly used on a Bell & Gossett Series 100 NFI circulator pump. If you want to replace the entire pump and motor, look for the Bell & Gossett Series 100 NFI, or the Taco 110, which is the most comparable to the Bell & Gossett. If you're looking to replace the current pump and motor with a wet-rotor type pump, the Taco 007 is not the best choice as the pump performance (head vs. flow) is different. I would suggest the Grundfos UPS15-58FC, which is about the same price as the Taco but it will give you the option of three speeds to better match your flow and head loss.