| Frequency: | 60 Hz 60 Hz 60 Hz |
|---|---|
| Application: | Zoning |
| Material: | Cast Iron |
| Poles: | 2 |
| Voltage: | 115V |
| Max Pressure (PSI): | 145 |
| Type: | 3-Speed Pump |
| Features: | Integral Check Valve |
| Horse Power: | 1/25 |
| Max Flow (GPM): | 17 |
| Flow Range (GPM): | 0-17 |
| Max Head (Ft): | 19.5 |
| Head Range (ft.): | 0-19.5 |
| Hertz: | 60 |
| Phase: | 1 |
| RPM: | 2450 |
| Temperature Range (F): | 36°F - 230°F |
| Connection Size: | 1" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 3/4" |
| Connection Type: | Flanged x Flanged |
3 years
The Grundfos circulators are designed for long life. I have a neighbor who has some that have been in use for many years. Here is the text from the included manual: /*Limited Warranty* UPS15-58 and UP15-42F circulator pumps manufactured by GRUNDFOS PUMPS CORPORATION (GRUNDFOS) are warranted to the original user only to be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period of 36 months from date of manufacture. GRUNDFOS' liability under this warranty shall be limited to repairing or replacing at GRUNDFOS' option, without charge, F.O.B. GRUNDFOS' factory or authorized service station, any UPS15-58 or UP15-42F circulator pump. GRUNDFOS will not be liable for any costs of removal, installation, transportation, or any other charges which may arise in connection with a warranty claim./
the ups15-58c has a warranty of 36 months to the original owner. covers material and workmanship of the pump. manufacture will either repair or replace defective pump. you will probably never need the warranty as this is a very good pump.
Hi no you have some air trap in the pump you will need to purge the air in it and dovit soon because youbwill break the pump
I don't have an answer. This is the third winter for the pump in my home and it is quiet.
Hard to say from a distance. Could it be air in the lines? That's unlikely if you haven't opened the system and the pressure is maintaining at the recommended 12 PSI. If the pump is truly "rattling" there's a bad bearing or loose impeller. I'd monitor it and if it gets worse, fix it.
You could have air in the system.
hard to say. could be defective pump or some kind of vibration. also could be air in the system which sounds like a rattle when pump runs. has anything changed that would have let air into the system? try purging the line of air to see if that helps.
Try bleeding the system of air. Also, inspect your piping for loose supports, clamps etc. Can you locate or even pinpoint the location of the rattle? Ed Siemer Finish Right LLC
Sounds like its time for a new pump ,but I would make sure its not air locked and running dry.
the noise is usuaaly air in the system, however it can also be caused by verycold water hitting the hot boiler coils, this can ne rectified by lowerng boiler temperature, or installing a mising valve to mix some of the boiler water with the return water, thus raising the teemp of the input water to the boiler. This situation will arise in colder weater, and will be less prevalent in warme(less severe temps)
Yes the flanges are standard and will also fit Taco pumps as well as B&G pumps
Yes. Thank you!
What is important is, if replacing a pump already installed what is there now, as there may be something odd. In most instances flanges can be interchanged.
Look at the specs for this pump. 3/4" - 1 1/4" pipe can be adapted to it depending on the flange size you choose. If you are using 3/4" pipe get the 3/4" flange kit; 1" pipe use the 1" flange kit; etc.
I beleive so - the absoute best flange system is the Webstone isolator uniflange ball valve - they come in pairs.Item #50403 -- Tey facilitate removal of the pump without draing the boiler or losing a lot of fluid.
kind of a tricky question. all ups-58 pumps are the same as far as the flange. just order the flange out let according to your pipe size. 3/4 in. thru 1-1/2. the ph just means ( single phase). 120 volt single phase.
This pump can not be installed outdoors , it can be installed horizontal with some limitations that you will see on the instructions provided with the pump.
It will work fine as long as the pump is not exposex to the outside elements. Sent from my Galaxy S®III
This circulator has the same flange-to-flange dimensions as a Taco 007 and it works with the same flanges. Note that the direction of the motor would be different unless you have a rotated-flange 007.
Yes, this is a direct replacement for a Taco 007, and in my opinion, a much better pump. I replaced a Taco 007 with one of these in my dad's house because I needed a pump with a higher head pressure so the hot water would reach the baseboards on the second floor. It works great there. Mark
Hello U won't harm the pump doing this but it may harm the switch and capacitor if done repeatedly Sent from my iPad
Shouldn't turn the dial well under load or power not good for the motor on the pump..
en> The only way to manually stop this pump is to disconnect the power. I have about a dozen of these in my system. I placed simple switches on some of them that I wanted to be able to stop without shutting down the entire system.
Personally I would install a off/on switch. Or GFI, or Power strip with off / on switch. Since the Pump only runs on 120 volts AC. Hope this helps you!!.
Never tried this means to manually turn pump off and would not suggest it. Contacts inside pump speed change switch are of a "sliding" nature and might make weak contact causing a hot spot in the switch and a burn-out. You are best to simply unplug the pump or power off its control source.
It's best to have the pump on a switched circuit. Using the speed switch to shut off the pump is not advisable. It's not designed to turn on or off the pump.
This circulator requires electricity to operate. It's possible that the control that signals the pump to come on was damaged in the storm.
More information would be helpful. Do you have a pressurized system?Sounds like you have airlock. I would try this first. Open the pressure release valve on the boiler and let the air out until water comes out. With the system off and cooled down you might have to do this a couple times until the air is bled out. These pumps don't actually push water so any air in the system causes the water to not circulate.
Wow! You can't do it without removing the motor from the volute. The pump is in a closed system and the storm shouldn't have gotten into the piping. However electrical on the outside could be water damaged. If you had 220V in the house wiring due to the storm (this could happen outside of your house on the power lines) you could have serious damage to electrical parts. A complete inspection by a professional is mandatory for any heating system that has been flooded.
The key thing is that you don't use both, but the literature that comes with the isolation flanges advises that you use the diamond-shaped gaskets that come with the flanges.
I would use only one , the one that makes the best contact with both surfaces.
I would just use the large o-ring on the pump. It should compress adequately against the flat surface of the valve set. Hal Sent from my iPad
do not use more than one set of seals. use whatever you think will seal the best. one or the other, not both.
I used the flat ones but I would guess that you could use either or but not both. You will have a extra set. If you look at the matting surface on the pump it should be flat.
You can consider replacing the pump cartridge (part 599378), which is the only replaceable component in this pump. Although it's normal for a circulator pump to feel hot, it sounds like the unit may also be having an electrical or wiring issue.
It could be electrical, measure at the pump J-box when it is malfunctioning, for 115 Volts. More than likely something is stopping the rotor from turning. These pumps have very little starting torque, so it doesn't take much to prevent rotation. Take the pump apart by removing the four allen screws and gently knock the pump motor off the volute. Rotate the impeller by hand. It should rotate freely. Look for solder in the impeller. Gently pry the rotor off the motor housing where the gasket is (between the gasket and the stainless plate). Clean the rotor and inside of housing with CLR or lime remover, rinse and check rotation and re-assemble to volute. This pump is for a closed system not for water heater re-circulation.